I use MaxiBloom straight, Lucas and started getting some nitrogen deficiency in only 1 strain. Weird.
It looks to not be getting much worse, plants are getting fat buds are getting heavy, my branches are starting to fall over, as are my net cups starting to tilt out of their holes lol. So it very well was probably the lamp being too close (its tricky finding a proper level for it because my home a/c turns on and off at odd ratios to cool my house, so id have one acceptable maximum efficiency distance from my plants and it'd be too hot during periods of the a/c being off, but just perfect when its on) Going to be tying up lots of branches over the next few weeks. Also I dont really think its a cal/mag deficiency, i am definintely not 100% in that doubt, but I am not convinced that thats what was causing the problems because the symptoms dont really match up completely. ArizonaTHC- maxibloom seems convenient to use, just 1 product being all you need. You got a nitro deficiency? You in veg or flowering? If veg, that is strange. It very well could be a pH issue, as I believe these fertilizers have plenty of nitro I checked my res this morning, and my pH is now starting to drop and ppm is rising. I am a bit over 3 weeks in to flowering. Is this a bad sign or just normal flowering tendencies? (im thinking normal?)
ph goes down and ppm goes up=too hot ph goes up and ppm goes down=not quiete enuf(yet much better than the afore mentioned) ph rises slowly and ppm's stay the same WHILE water is disapearing= jackpot...girls are taking equal portions of h2o and food this is why i mentioned waiting to top off and monitering your solution...the girls will ALWAYS tell you what their feeling ;-) no matter what any nute lines instructions say or even what their techs say,i always use those as a place to start my nute math...i mix 1/2-1/4 recommended strength and watch it for a couple..my goal is always to come up short and gradually increase feed strength till i see it level off..(equal parts water and food disappearing) and i always always always put SOME calmag back into the RO'd water before add my nutes...i really cant stress this enuf...even 50 ppm is SOMETHING...makes nute availability and ph stability dead on...not to mention that most nute companies already have questionable levels of cal and mag at best...week3-5 WILL kick your ass if you ignore basic principles-ie:calmag is your bestest buddy if you RO... good luck and cheers for the problem leveling out/ending ps. i also must stress that these are the lifelong experiences of only myself and those i roll with...im sure there are exceptions to every rule and and every experience...
Does anyone else have any input on the cal-mag situation? I have read similiar things to what u have said sensikid, but ive also read the opposite (as in dont need cal mag). Which makes me think its one of those flipfloppy issues that arent too important and that i should focus on the environment (heat, pH, ventilation and what have you) before attempting to add more nutes. The floramicro is supposed to contain all the cal/mag i need
bro look ill tell ya what...call gen hydro yourself 800-374-9376,ask for nancy...srsly one o the best techs in the entire game...run this all by her...i guarantee she will tell you that yes,their product containes good amounts of cal and mag,and shell ALSO tell you that if you are ROing your water then you NEED to put some calmag back into do to the fact that your stripping all the bicarbonates out of your water...now shell also tell you that if you really insist on running no cal mag in your ro'd water then you should switch to the floranova program...which also has a lucas recipe...now id like to note that i know PLENTY of peeps running lucas...the ones that either use tap or calmag thier ro have zero probs.... id also like to note that my previous post about ph and ppm strength,has nothing to do with using or not using calmag...persay...just some sound advice to help you actually dial in your feed program...hate to break it to you and all the rest that swear by a one size fits all formula...may work some o the time,may never work...but i guarantee you this... IT WILL NEVER WORK ALL THE TIME...strain to strain,enviroment to enviroment...mary jane is a fical bitch,if you cant/arnt willing to bob and weave alil,itll knock you the fuck out... and finally id like to state that if eveything youve tried aint fixin it...maybe you should start trying shit outside of your box... much love and zero disrespect sir,all i say and all i do is out of love and concern for my one and only true love im done here and will leave your thread to you and yours...good luck and when in doubt give nancy a call...hope im aloud to give her the shout out...shes saved my ass more than once when i first started this shit...
Agree with above... I use tap and have little knowledge of cal/mag adding. Has it gotten any worse? If not, you fixed it. Move on and relax. If it has, dig deeper and try the cal mag
Okay time for an update. The leaves are not getting any worse, I think it was definintely the light being too close that caused most of the problems. Good on that aspect. Going to go ahead and post some more of my problems/grow diary here in hopes you blades will continue to assist My issue now is my pH is dropping every day and ppm is rising every day (too much food, in theory), the thing is the system was fine just a half-week ago, it had a pH slowly rising, now all of a sudden pH is dropping every day, and I am having to add pure RO water every day for the past 2 days. The pH was like 5.2 this morning, it was ~5.5 yesterday. Does anyone know whats causing this? The res smells normal enough and the roots that are visible dont look bad I am having to add a lot of pH up. Dont know really what to do, thinking about doing a res change. Or perhaps I can just add 3% hydrogen peroxide to kill something in my res thats causing this? Crossing my fingers that it will somehow magically re-equalize and pH and ppm go back to their usual steady rates of change. I think the problem is one of the following: 1) root rot or something rotting thats lowering pH (remedy with hydro peroxide?) 2)ive read its just normal for plants to drop in pH towards the middle and end of flowering, and its normal for pH to rise in the beginning of flowering and vegetation period (this is due to the plant using mostly nitrogen in veg and mostly potassium in flowering) So perhaps its nothing to worry about and I should just continue to add ph up and do what I normally do (just using ph up instead of ph down). The thing is, ph is dropping a lot more than it was rising earlier, so ill probably have to use quite a bit more pH up. Is there truth to this? 3) For some reason it needs a res change? (I use the 100% nute top off method, Lucas Formula, havnt swapped res since changing to flowering) I apologize for the long post, just trying to make sure I dont forget anything and that im being as clear as possible. Appreciate the help guys and girls
Okay the next day is here and im still giving the plants pure RO water, this is day 3 of nothing but pure RO water and pH adjusters (because the ppm keeps rising and ph falling). pH was 5.4 this morning. The reservoir does not smell like root rot so I think im ruling that one out. (number 1 on my list on last post) number 2 could still be plausible, because I still dont understand why this is happening 100% and number 3 is also plausible. - - - - havnt added any nutes for three days due to the ppm rising and ph falling issue (that came out of no where)
Unless you have seen root rot before, don't count it out. *I* would (and do) treat prophylacticly. You have early signs, don't wait til she is dying from advanced signs. Beneficial Bacteria Tea is cheap easy and makes the girls beautiful. http://forum.grasscity.com/hydropon...asy-beneficial-bacteria-cure-root-issues.html
yeppers...9/10 a "brown slime" will be the precurser to pythium(root rot)... the crazy ph swings that are outside the norm for over/under feeding are usually the first sign of possible pathogens...check around the inside of your tubs/res/ whatev,run your fingers down your airlines(inside dwc device) pull your airstone up and look at it...your looking for the beggings of the "brown slime"...if you got it,you need to google ACT(aerated compost tea...microbe tea)EVERYONE THAT DOES HYDRO SHOULD HAVE A GOOD RECIPE ON HAND ALWAYS... OOPS! that links...excellent article on the subject... id like to also say that i,like many,thought id never need or use teas(for one reason or another)that was untill i got a case o the slime that i just couldnt beat...started off slow and went crazy...h202,zone,physan 20, bleach, my right arm,fucking nothing stopped this shit...till a brilliant man on another forum (sorry but he is awsome) turned me on to brewing my own ACT... simple shit,tiny air pump,bucket,water,and like $30-40(depending on how eleborate you feel like getting)in supplies...wait 48 hrs and BAM...good to go.. now you do have do follow a minor application schedule for bout 1.5 weeks,but IT WILL destroy the slime and even the rot,plus you get roots like i guarantee you have never seen before...now yes,the whole ACT thing is kinda scary at first,especially if you run a dead res/system(sterile)...in fact thats exactly how i was (in flower anyway) and still am,but i dont worry bout shit anymore (and i run underrcurrent) cause at the first signs of probs all i gotta do is brew the 48 hr wonder mix one last note...i have given my personal recipe to MULTIPLE,close, real life friends (so ive seen the results first hand) and every single one of them has been blown the fuck away by the results...i would probably list this as one of the single greatest hydro secrets i know...ive heard of(read) only one person on one forum that has claimed failure after the use of the tea...and personally if feel it has to be user error,ive just seen this shit work first hand on more than a handful of people,even one complete idiot(great person though ) anyway sorry bout the rant but once/if you do the tea, youll understand my enthusiasm EDIT:forgot to note that i currently,with every one of my girls,use this method as a prophylactic,but only in veg,i run the full regimen in veg only and allow my bennies to die off thru my transition into flower...different strokes for different folks...ive found that once built up right they last till week 2 ish and its smoov sailing from there...now that being said,if i even think i see the slime coming, i send in the infantry,but thank jah so far,this has worked perfect for my scenarios and situations...but i also must note,a couple of my rl friends follow their own twisted schedules and regimens,and as previously stated,every last one of em is killing it,so ya,take from it what ya will
lolol...just noticed 2 things... 1.your link zoom...thats the man alright...dude is a prohpet...there will be a special place in "heaven" for heisenberg 2.my shit didnt link...sorry i dont computer too well...heres the address though,i HIGHLY recommend checking out the article..even gots a couple good brew recipes...BUT DEF CHECK OUT ZOOMS LINK ... sorry heres the article...http:/medicalmarijuana.com/experts/expert/title.cfm?artID=64
I will def look into that tea, would hydrogen peroxide do a similiar effect? I dont have those materials for the tea atm. only earthworm castings (not that brands) And just an update but my fan leaves are getting worse, like the one I posted a picture of in the original post, the upper part of the leaf (the blades of the leaf) are a lot more brown/crispy/no more green to the blades. Theres still green towards the stem of the leaf, just as there was originally in the picture. Some fan leaves are completely crisped over as in the whole thing is yellowed, and crispy, i could probably crumble it between my fingers if i tried. and god damn it note to self: flower sooner... my plants are just too big to work with, tis frustrating indeed at times. live and learn, all of my plants are tipping out of their net cups because their so tall and gaining weight every day. I also left my darn reservoir lid open twice on accident, I felt around where I could on the inside of my tub and nothing felt slimy, and nothing smelled peculiar though.
I'm sorry but I'm leaning toward root rot. The tea is cheap. Use the ewcs you have, plus grab some molasses and order this http://www2.mailordercentral.com/fungi/prodinfo.asp?number=HMSO1O
1. if you have ANY bennies in your shit...h202 will kill them off along with the slime or even pythium,unfortunately the bad shit is MUCH stronger than the good in terms of h202 resistance...that being said...the 1st step in MY tea process is a STRONG h202 dose before i dump my res and pods,BUT,i do it the day before my tea is finished brewing...IMO you really should get the tea together,it can be done on the cheap and even the cheap version would do you... now as to whether you need the tea... you didnt mention whether or not the ph is still dipping,if it is,even when you cut your feed,im gonna have to agree with zoom so far as you prob have the begginings of the slime...somewhere...it even might be as far as the rot and its somehow gotten past your notice and is in the net cups... one small side note...i had/have an absolute show stopper of a cut that for some fucking reason,no matter what,and believe me when i say no matter what,this bitch drops her ph to the high 4's,if i start it at 6.0,5.9,5.8,5.7,5.6,5.5 it still drops to 4.7-.8...wait 24-36 hrs and she brings her shit back up to 5.8-6...literally one of the wierdest damn things ive ever seen doing this shit...ive consulted EVERYONE...all stumped...but ive just learned to smoke a lil more when dealing with her and let her do her thing,which she does flawlessly...point is,even thought it absolutely looks like something,sometimes it just aint now bout your plant size...im sure youve heard this before but just in case... my rule of thumb (which is round 95% effective) is if its a new strain,no matter what,even if i know the person it comes from or have worked with "it" before,i ALWAYS flip the lights at 1/3 the size i want it,ie: if i want a 3-4fter ill flip at 12 inchs...now if im confident about her stretch ratio i will tweak this slightly depending on sative/indica ratios,but IMO, unless your real good and you have your shit dialed in( by dialed i mean you can go anywhere,in any eviroment,indoors or out,and totally blow it up)id stick to a basic 1/3 kinda plan,atleast that way you never get caught with your pants down and keepin your pants up can be the difference between a 1/2 ounce per plant and a 1/4 pound a couple last things.... smell or not,slimey or not,double and triple check everywhere cause the shit can be godamn sneaky...if there are parts of your rig you cant easily see into,odds are its prob there...also pull a couple samples and go check em out under regular bright white light...if its murky or cloudy,and your only running flora series,then my friend youve got a problem,and i would,post haste,get a tea together,i dont think any of us can properly convey how important and amazing it is...it is one of the ONLY things ive seen win the war against pythium...and again you as others,may be just fine with h202,but if your like alot of us,it wont be so,and youll actually do more harm then good fiddling around with peroxide,plus NONE of ANY of my strains have ever liked h202...had to do it a couple of times,but they all hated it,so if i can avoid it,i do... again good luck my friend,remain vigilant,as long as you stay on top of this shit,you can almost get her thru anything
some afterthoughts i had..... first the simple(as in amount of type;-)...your leaves,i really really really believe that since A.your ph INITIALLY was fluctuating normally and your nutes were being consumed at a reasonable rate,then suddenly in week 3 you developed brown edging and little brown spots,which then progressed into large brown necrotic spots,which then progressed,to,well dead...you really really need to atleast try a lil calmag..gen hydro makes a great low N calmag called calimagic,cheap as shit too,like $10 a liter...for the love of pete just try,for a week atleast,adding 100ppm or better to your nute load...dude for real until you give it a shot you cant say anything or worse KNOW about whether or not that will work...and sir,when your in your position you need to start a process of elimination,and since no one else is chiming in,and everyone else is basically agreeing...its worth a shot now the not so simple and oddly enuf probably less type... your question about h202 doing the same as the ACT...i dont think you quite understand the ACT...you are actually brewing,waking,and feeding an army of 10's of thousands of microbes(actually the number is quite higher)...h202 is disolver of biological matter,it kills your ACT(refered to as bennies)... so the h202 blasts the bad and good microbes and more or less kills them off, except the slime can develop an annoying ass tolerance to h202(and just about every other product)..thats why we dose our systems with the tea AFTER we dose and drain with h202...you quickly add the bennies back to your system to colonize and keep the slime and/or pythium from being able to gain a foot hold and take back over...which it will..no matter what...you have to strip your system down and SERIOUSLY clean your shit between grows to even have a hope...and the shit will live in the tiniest lil scratch in a plastic bucket or fitting so total erratication is almost impossible...so to sum up... yes the h202 works great as does the tea....but its about symbiosis between the two...not one instead of the other... and now its dinner time,adios amigos