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I Found A Tiny Caterpillar
Posted 28 June 2006 - 04:34 AM
any ideas how i can stop this happening again please
keep on tokin
Posted 28 June 2006 - 04:39 AM
PREDATORS, PESTS AND PLANT FUNG
PLANT PESTS WILL ALWAYS BE A PROBLEM for cannabis growers and should never be ignored. An infestation or infection can kill all of your plants very quickly. Minor pest attacks can stunt plant development, which can prevent them from achieving optimal growth or even cause the hermaphrodite condition to appear in your sinsemilla crop.
Of course, some strains can cope with pest attack better than others and some experts will tell you that a little pest attack only serves to 'harden'the plants up a bit. Although stress brought on by pest attack can cause the plant to produce its fruits and foliage more vigorously, there is a fine line between hardening a plant up and causing the hermaphrodite condition to appear along with impaired growth.
You should also keep in mind that, outdoors, pests have to contend with the forces of nature and predators, but pests will thrive in clean, healthy indoor environments and spread quickly. As a result, you can expect pest attacks to be more frequent and damaging indoors than outdoors. Indoors, any pests must be dealt with immediately.
It must be said that, for an outdoor garden, a cat is the number one defense system against most small predators, but a cat can bring unwanted pests into an indoor grow room! Cats also like to play with indoor plants so be very careful with your plants and pets. Cats, especially kittens, like to use the base of cannabis plants as a litter box. Puppies and young dogs also like to play with cannabis plants (including biting their stems). Keep domestic pets out of your indoor grow room.
PESTICIDES, HERBICIDES AND FUNGICIDES
Pesticides are substances for destroying pests. Herbicides are products that destroy weeds and plants. Fungicides are used to kill fungi. New growers should not attempt to use herbicide, as the risk of harming your plants is too great. Solutions to specific pest and fungi problems are covered below in detail.
ATTENTION! READ THIS:
Use only repellents and pesticides that are clearly marked for Food Product Use on the label. If a repellent or pesticide is not safe for food product use then do not use it on your plants! You could be smoking or cooking with your plants later and you don't want to end up in a hospital because of poisoned bud. If a pesticide is safe for food product use then it will be safe to use on your bud. Read the product instructions clearly and carefully. Do not take short cuts. Follow the instructions on the label carefully.
Pesticides come in a variety of different formats. These include: pellets, sprays, powders and gases. Pellet-type pesticides usually come in boxes or tubs.The pellets usually range from 2 mm to 10 mm in length and are eaten by pests such as slugs, snails and larvae. Sprays come in liquid form or as a fine powder that you need to mix with water. Most liquid pest sprays come with a nozzle attached to the bottle so they can be used directly without mixing or transfer to another spray can. Powder pesticides that are not to be used as a spray are simply added to soil around the base of the plant, but not directly onto the plant itself. These powder pesticides are useful for removing low-level area pests like slugs and snails. Gas pesticides are also known as vpest bombs'. These types of pesticides are used to fumigate indoor areas to eradicate pests. Dead pests can then be removed from the room.
Why Cannabis Resin and Soapy Pesticides Don't Mix
Soaking a flowering female with a soapy pesticide is not a good idea for several
First, any liquid applied to the bud in large amounts will remove some of the tri-chomes simply because of the way in which it must be applied and not because of the solution coming into contact with theTHC-containing resin glands. In fact, THC is not water-soluble as we will explain in more detail when we cover hashish making and resin extraction in Chapter 17. Repeated application of soapy pesticides as directed will only remove more trichomes.
Secondly, soaps add additional water weight to the flowering plant, causing stems and branches to bend. This added weight and film of soapy water on the leaves and stems can stunt growth by slowing photosynthesis until the plant is dry again.
Thirdly, turning on indoor lights before plants are dry creates a risk of burning as the pesticide chemicals can change composition due to heat. The result is much like white powdery blotches on the leaves with indications of burning.
Try to avoid using soapy pesticides or any pesticides on a flowering cannabis plant by solving pest problems back in the vegetative stage of the cannabis life cycle before any bud or resin is produced.
This index is by no means exhaustive. The pests described in this section were selected because they are the most common and are responsible for most cannabis-related pest attacks.
New growers should bear in mind that pest attack symptoms can look exactly like those caused nutrient disorders, overwatering, underwatering, overfeeding, pH fluctuation or heat stress. In fact, the 'bite mark' damage commonly associated pest attack does not always occur.This is because instead of eating the plant some pests will suck on the plant leaves, flowers, branches and stems.
In some pest attack cases the plant's leaves simply change color or curl. Leaf color changes or distortions like leaf curl are often associated with nutrient disorders or overfeeding, so before you make a nutrient disorder diagnosis you should examine your plants carefully for signs of pests. It is good practice to get in the habit of doing this anyway every time you check your plants.
The main difference between a pest attack and a non-pest related disorder is the presence of the pests themselves. Since pest damage is highly variable you cannot rely on the damage alone to identify the pest. You need to find the pest, identify it and eradicate it. A magnifying aid is an extremely useful instrument for pest identification.
In indoor spaces especially, acting quickly is critical. Try to commit the signs of infestation described in this section to memory, as this will help you to identify them quickly if you come across a pest attack in your grow. Remember though that not all insects are bad for your garden. Some experts make the mistake of listing pests that actually do not harm cannabis. Some of these insects instead prey on pests that you may want to get rid of. We will also list these Mriendly' pests so that you can get to know them.
Ants are small insects from the family Formicidae. They are usually wingless except during mating season. Ants are colony pests, are well known for their cooperativeness and industriousness and can destroy cannabis plants quickly. Ants eat cannabis leaves and carry portions of the plant back to the colony for food storage and construction. Ants are easy to spot because of their size, speed of movement and numbers. Along with leaf discoloration an ant-attacked plant may exhibit bite marks on the edges of the leaves. Ants also farm aphids, another type of pest that growers will want to eradicate. Ants can be removed using boric acid or any popular colony killer pesticide.
Aphids are small soft-bodied insects of the family Aphididae. Aphids are the single most common pest attackers experienced by cannabis growers both indoors and out.They mainly live on plant juices by sucking sap from stems, branches and leaves.They are about 1/8 of an inch long and can be any color but yellow/green is most common. Some aphids have wings.
Aphids tend to secrete frothy or foamy waste material, called honeydew, around their feeding areas on the plant and are most likely to be found attacking new growth or the underside of leaves near a node region, but they can be anywhere. Aphids are generally surrounded by their young and they reproduce at an extremely rapid rate and spread quickly. In addition, some aphids transmit viral diseases. This pest must be eradicated from your grow as soon a possible.
Aphids are small and do not move very quickly so growers need to take extra care when checking their crops for aphids. Aphid attack looks a bit like underwater-ing resulting in leaf wilt. You may also find some plant stunting and exhibiting signs of leaf curl during an aphid attack.
Ants also farm aphids by gathering the honeydew they excrete, and so you must remove any ants before you try to treat an aphid problem. Aphids can be removed from your grow using any pyrethrum-based insecticide. Spraying your plants with pyrethrum-based insecticide before flowering will help prevent future aphid attacks but a full spraying tends to cause a certain amount of plant stress and growth stunting. If you want to keep aphids out of your grow room, then you should spray down the grow room with a pyrethrum-based insecticide before introducing the plants to the environment, making sure that you cover the corners and door frame.
To treat a mild aphid problem try to only spray the infected areas of the plant. An aphid attack on flowering plants can be a problem because spraying can damage the bud and separate your trichome glands from the cannabis flowers. Try to solve aphid problems before flowering at all costs. Chances are that if you have prevented an aphid attack before flowering then you should not get one during flowering unless aphid contaminated items are brought into the grow room.
A soapy pesticide like Safer's Soap can also be used to deter aphids. A mixture of dishwashing detergent in hot water can be used to clean down the grow room and pots of any unwanted aphids by suffocating them. As stated in the introduction to this section, soap and detergents should not be used during the flowering period. Ladybugs are a natural predator of aphids and can be used to control them.
Cutworms, Caterpillars and Larvae
Insects that are in their early stages of development are problem pests because they are insatiable and will eat anything green that they can get their tiny mouths around.Their appetite is surreal when you actually discover how much a caterpillar can consume in a single day. One caterpillar can reduce an ounce cola to stem and stalk in less than four days. These pests pose a huge threat to your crop and must be stopped right away. Caterpillars especially like to eat young seedlings and new growth. They are also known to leave holes in leaf but other pests can do this too.
The only sure way to get rid of cutworms, caterpillar and larvae is to use a cutworm, caterpillar or larvae repellent. Usually the same product will affect all three pests. Cutworms can also be hand picked from your grow. At night they sleep in a XC' shape in the soil or under the cover of something else like a piece of wood.
Deer are so curious that even electric fences won't stop them over.time. Deer will eat leaves, stems, flowers and branches. Damaged areas are usually large including complete topping of the main cola from the stem.There are much kinder ways to keep deer away from your crop. You need to get a hold of predator urine from hunting shops. Find out which urine works best with deer to keep them away without attracting other plant-eating animals. Simply spray the urine on your patch and this will help keep the deer away.This method has a very high success rate at keeping deer from your grow.
Gnats are insects with long, thin fragile legs from the family Culicidae. Gnats can eat leaves but mostly suck sap from the phloem. The damage from a Gnat attack is similar to that of an aphid attack and can be treated in the same way: using a pyrethrum-based insecticide. Gnats cause less damage than aphids but need to be treated quickly nonetheless.
Generally harmless to cannabis unless they are found in large numbers, grasshoppers are insects from the Acrididae family with legs designed for jumping long distances. The males make a high pitch clicking sound.
There is a particular species of grasshoppers often called Mocusts'that form in large migratory swarms and are highly destructive to nearly every kind of vegetation. Locust attacks are so severe that they can strip a plant down to its stem and branches within a few hours. During a locust attack the grower can only take cuttings from his or her plant and continue the strain elsewhere. Locusts will even eat pesticide-laden plants when traveling in large numbers so pesticides are rarely effective against these types of attacks.
Grasshoppers are treated as tourists in small numbers.They stay around only for a short period of time and move on. Grasshoppers are best hand picked from your plants if you wish to control them. Birds also eat grasshoppers.
Groundhogs are a burrowing colonial rodent of the genus Marmota.They eat the shoots and leaves of the cannabis plant. Dry chlorine helps keep groundhogs away from your plants. If you find any groundhog holes near your grow area, apply the dry chlorine around the hole.
Mealy bugs are insects from the Pseudococcidae family.They are often described by growers as xhard aphids' because of a waxy powder that makes their backs look shell-like under a microscope. They attack plant tissue and suck sap from the phloem. Mealy bugs are treated in the same way as aphid attacks: using a pyrethrum-based insecticide.
Rabbits are burrowing plant-eating mammals of the Leporidae family. They can be recognized by their long ears and short fluffy tails. Rabbits are voracious eaters and can reduce a crop to nothing in a couple of days.They will continue to feed from the same patch until they're done or the patch is destroyed. The best way to keep rabbits from your grow is to use predator urine. Rabbits also shy away from cats and dogs.
Scale is closely related to the aphid and comes in several different forms. Scales are born mobile but will eventually solidify (at any plant location but mostly on the branch and stem) and insert a small hollow tube into the plant to tap into the juices. They also spread mold. Scale can be hand picked from your plants with ease because, when they solidify, they stay on that area of the plant. Ants farm scale so ants need to be removed from your grow room before you treat a scale problem. Scale can also be scrubbed from the branches, using a scouring pad. Dormant oil sprays, a form of organic pest control, also kill scale. You should be able to obtain dormant oil from any good grow store.
Slugs and Snails
These pests are molluscs of the class Gastropoda and characteristically have a flattened ventral bottom that they use for movement.They eat the leaves and stem and will kill cannabis seedlings. Slugs and snails are best hand picked from your grow area. Another way to remove them is to make a circle of table salt about four feet away from the base of your plants. Then make another circle a foot in from that. Salt is deadly to snails and slugs and will keep them out. Slugs and snails can also be repelled or killed by using slug and snail pest pellets.
Always keep a bottle of pesticide that kills spider mites on hand because marijuana plants are extremely vulnerable to mite attacks. Spider mites can reduce your plants to garbage within a couple of days so you should never bring a plant inside that has been outside.
Spider mites are tiny, about half the size of this period. Spider mites cannot be seen without a magnifying aid but are normally spotted because they gather in large numbers to form clusters on areas of your plant. Spider mites feed off plant juices and leaf wilt is a common symptom of a mite attack. If the attack continues the plant will eventually die. Spider mites also spin webbing on the effected areas of the plant.
Specialized spider mite pesticides like Avid will curb attacks. Sulfur also deters spider mites. During vegetative growth spider mites can be exterminated using soaps. Sticky pest trap tape is not effective against them. After aphids, spider mites are the second most common pest attackers experienced by cannabis growers both indoors and out.
Termites are a type of Isoptera and live in colonies. Termites are very destructive, even in small numbers. They have the ability to chew through wood rapidly and can chop a plant at the base of its stem within a few days. Termites don't like water. If you overwater the soil around your plant they will leave but you will be left with an overwatering problem.
There are commercial products available that kill termites but most of these are not for plant use or human consumption. Termites can be killed by finding their nest and flushing it with water. Try to find the source of the termites rather than treating your plants.
Thrips are a member of the Thysanoptera family and are minute dark-colored insects with slim bodies that have wings in adult form. They usually attack the flowering parts of the cannabis plant and suck juices from the leaves. Thrips infestations usually cause the cannabis flowers to fall apart and look silvery in patches.Thrips are not typically around for long because their natural predators are beetles, ladybirds, lacewing and mites. Thrip infestations can be treated with any good thrip pesticide or pyrethrum.Thrips also do not like garlic.
Whitefly are from the Aleyrodidae family and are usually about 4 mm in size, although there are more than 200 species of this insect vary in shape, size and color. One particular species even likes to spend its entire life within greenhouses — hence its name 'Greenhouse Whitefly'.
Whitefly normally have waxy white wings and use these to fly over short distances. If you shake your plant you should be able to hear them before you see them. They make a buzzing sound when moving in small groups.The whitefly can be deadly to your crop and can reduce your plant to trash in days.They feed on plant juices and secrete a honeydew, which has the natural ability to develop a dark mold on the secreted areas.This mold will also affect your plants' health if left untreated.
Safer's Soap™ helps to kill whitefly and can be bought in most grow shops. Other soaps and sprays will also kill whitefly. The whitefly's natural predators are spiders, ladybirds and beetles. Pest tape can also be quite effective against whitefly. Whitefly are the third most common pest attackers experienced by cannabis growers both indoors and out.
Woodchucks and Other Small Rodents
Woodchucks will nibble your stems and collapse the plant. The way to solve this is by either using predator urine (see also deer and groundhogs) or building a very small mesh fence around the base of your outdoor plants.This will keep the wood-chucks from eating your stems and branches. Use more than one layer of mesh and make sure that you keep it tight. Planting marigolds near your grow will also help keep the woodchucks away.
There are many predators of pests that, at first glance, may appear to be plant pests but will not actually damage your crop. You should keep these Mriendly' pests around, since they are nature's way of eliminating many of the pests listed above. Beneficial pests can even be bred or bought so that you have a constant supply of these pest killers.
Ladybeetles or Nadybirds' as some call them, will breed on their own if they have a constant supply of aphids and other insects to feed on. Many places now stock pest predators. Contact your local agricultural supply store to find out where predatory pests might be available. There are companies out there that provide this service and will even send some predator pests by mail order.
Ground beetles are usually black, brown or have a bluish tint along with wings and solid covers that surround the wings on their backs. Beetles usually work best at ground level eradicating most types of snails, slugs, cutworms and other insect pests. They are usually found in soil or hiding under debris like rocks and wood.
Braconid wasps are from the hymenopterous family of insects. Their eggs actually act as a parasite on unwanted pests like aphids, scale, cutworms and other kinds of larvae. In most instances this occurs shortly after the wasp has injected several of the pests with its own eggs. Injected cutworms will eventually develop several microscopic cocoon-like pods on their back and sides. The braconid wasp larvae sucks the insect dry as it develops inside these cocoons.
Certain types of what gardeners refer to as 'true' bugs will curb unwanted pests. 'True' bugs will actually suck all the bodily fluids out of their victims. The assassin bug (red underside), big-eyed bugs (has big eyes), pirate bugs (checkered black and white or gray and brown) and damsel bugs (long and large front legs and are gray, brown or tan in color) are the most common true bugs you will find although there are many more. Pirate bugs are especially effective against spider mites and thrips. Bugs are usually more than half and inch in size and will move relatively quickly around your plant.
It is worth mentioning earthworms here even though they are not pest predators. Earthworms help to aerate your soil along with depositing nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and potassium in the soil. One organic type of feeding product is called 'Worm Casting' and is mostly made from earthworm waste material. If you farm earthworms you can create your very own organic fertilizer.
Lacewings will eat aphids and spider mites. They are usually green with large semi-transparent wings that extend well past the length of their bodies. The have two long and thin protruding antenna from their heads, grow to about 2.5 cm and can be approached and handled without much difficulty.
Ladybirds or 'ladybugs' are amazing predator pests because they eat a lot of other insects that are damaging to cannabis. They eat aphids, mealy bugs, scales and spider mites. Ladybirds must eat aphids and other insects in order to lay eggs. The more they eat, the more eggs they lay. As a result, the amount of new ladybirds born is directly proportionate to the amount of pests they consume. One female ladybird can consume up to 4,000 aphids in a lifetime and lay 2,000 eggs as a result of this. Ladybirds are the cannabis grower's pest predator of choice.
Unfortunately a common garden-variety spider is not enough to prevent a pest attack from occurring in your crop. You need them in large numbers to prevent any damage and even then spiders are very slow in their work. They also tend to spin webs in places where you do not want them and are not very controllable — however one type of spider that flies is of enormous benefit to your grow and is easy to control. That spider is the common *daddy long legs' and will consume nearly any insect in your grow room. Because this spider flies, it is not restricted to building webs in awkward places nor is it likely to cover your bud with spindle fibers like other spiders do. Also, those with arachnophobia don't seem to mind this type of spider as much because they are not very vicious looking and are easy to spot.
RECOVERING FROM A PEST INVASION
Sometimes the pests win. No matter how much you might spray to control or kill them, they keep coming back to your grow area. To solve this you may have to create a clean room or simply find another patch, which means a total and complete cull of your harvest — you don't want to re-introduce any pests or diseases into your new crop.
If you are growing indoors, first set up another grow room of smaller size, just enough to support some cuttings and clones. Take cuttings from the plants you have and move the cuttings to that room. You'll use the cuttings again eventually in your clean grow room if you want to continue those strains. Next, take all the grow equipment excluding the electrical equipment to the bathroom. Clean down all of the equipment with bleach. Fill a tub with water and bleach and allow the grow equipment to rest there for a day. Do not wash electrical equipment. Instead clean it down with a cloth.
In the grow room, first start with the walls. Clean the walls down with bleach if possible. You may have to paint them after. If you use Mylar — replace it after. Do not reuse Mylar after a pest infestation as some pests can find ways to attach themselves to it. Don't neglect the corners and clean out any holes, extraction holes, fittings, pipes, etc. Then clean around the rim of the room. If your floor can be lifted up then you can also do this to get at the corners a bit better.
After this cleaning has been done you can consider smoking the room. Various pest-killing smoke bombs can be bought in most grow stores. Follow the instructions carefully and smoke bomb the room. This will guarantee the demise of any bugs, eggs or larvae, but remember eggs can remain safe from these sprays. That is why the labels recommend a reapplication 7 to 10 days after the initial treatment. Once this is completed, clean the room as you did the first time. Repeat the process if needed. The more you clean it, the better it will be.
Now you should have a clean room, free of pests. Electrical items should be dusted before returning them to the grow room. Dry your other grow equipment, which was bleached, and return this to the grow room as well.
Next, your cuttings need to be checked for bugs. You will not move any plants back into the grow room until you have taken cuttings from these cuttings. Grow the cuttings out for a week or two and check them every day for bugs. If you find any then you may have to use a pesticide on the cuttings. When you're sure your cuttings are clean, take new cuttings and place them in a growing medium. Take these to your grow room and watch their progress, being wary of any signs of pests and bugs. If you've done this correctly you should have eliminated all pests in your grow room.
Spider mites and other small pests can lay their eggs in cuttings and can be missed when you look for pests, because they aren't as obvious. The pesticides should have killed them but some pests, like powder bugs, lay their eggs inside the stem and seem to always come back. If you can't get rid of bugs like these then you may have to toss your plants away and get new ones. For breeders this can be a difficult task. A long-term project can be terminated by a few bugs wreaking havoc in the grow room. Breeders should pay strict attention to maintaining a clean grow room at all times. Remember: Never take anything that has been outside into your grow room.
Fungi are types of bacteria, organisms and disease, which actually live by extracting nutrients from the plant. Fungi include molds, mushrooms, toadstools and rusts, and are usually made up of lichens, which lack chlorophyll and grow as they obtain more nutrients from the plant. Mold is a type of fungi that grows in high humidity. Most molds can be stopped by simply allowing fresh air into the grow room. Fungi can be eradicated using fungicides.
This is the most common variety of fungus found on cannabis plants. It is also called gray mold, gray blight or Botrytis blight. It begins its life as a white powder-like growth, which eventually turns gray as it spreads.
Fungus Botrytis forms spores that dislodge and are spread to neighboring plants. The spores can stay dormant for quite some time, so growers should treat all the plants in the surrounding area for Fungus Botrytis. This is because the fungus has a high tendency to stealth spread itself without notice in spore format. Spores do not need living matter to stay alive.They can lay dormant almost anywhere.
If you can solve a Fungus Botrytis problem quickly then you may prevent spores from being produced and this is why growers need to keep a close eye on their plants. Fungi are very hard to clean by hand. Rotted areas must be clipped away instead.
Fungus Botrytis will grow wherever it comes in contact with plant nutrients.This means that the fungus is more likely to be found developing on necrotic plant tissue or other damaged areas of the plant where the nutrients are more readily accessible. From here it spreads to other areas of the plant causing its feeding patches to rot. Cut areas after pruning and cloning are especially susceptible to Fungus Botrytis.
High humidity will cause fungi to spread more rapidly so lower humidity levels if needed. In some cases, lowering the humidity is all that is needed to prevent the fungi from spreading. Mold should also be treated the same way. If lowering the humidity does not solve fungi or mold problems then you need to apply a fungicide on the infected areas. Fungicides can be used on the infected areas to remove the fungus — preventing further plant rot. Spores tend to fall downwards so remove the top layer of soil from your infected plant and throw this away. After harvest, a previously infected grow area should be cleaned down to prevent further fungi growth during your next crop.
Root rot is a waterborne disease that attacks the plant roots. There are several varieties of root rot but all are treated the same way. Rot can cause a crop to fail rapidly. The symptoms are almost like those of a nutrient disorder, overwatering or underwatering. Wilting is a very common symptom of root rot.
Poor water drainage promotes root rot. Water and soil that is not suitably aerated (either by the growing method or by the soil's natural composition) promote root rot. Dead roots from a previous crop can also cause root rot. Root rot can easily be prevented by selecting suitable soil types and aerating water if needed.
Root rot prevents the plant from accessing water and nutrients by attaching itself to the roots and smothering the plant of its requirements. Root rot also causes pH to rise. In hydroponic systems the root tips may look burnt although some feeding products can dye the plant roots as well. In the advanced stages of root rot the roots appear to be covered in a brown slime that looks like dead algae. Eventually the base of the plant will rot away causing the plant to topple. Once a root is dead it remains dead.The plant can grow new roots but not regenerate old ones. This causes plant stress and the effect is very similar to transplant shock.
There are products on the market that can be used to eradicate root rot and are usually referred to as Voot shields'. In its advanced stages root rot is very hard to stop. In severe cases it cannot be and the plant needs to be cloned to continue its line. In order to recover from root rot you should increase aeration of the medium if possible while applying the root rot fungicide. If you lower pH below 6.0 you should prevent the rot from spreading. It is wiser to cull a number of plants then to allow the rot to spread to other areas of the soil, especially outdoors.
Overwatering promotes root rot. Better drainage systems, keeping your grow items clean and hydrogen peroxide will all help to prevent root rot. Vitamin Bl (thiamine) will help promote root growth.
Powdery mildew is a common fungus that can rapidly infect a crop. Like Fungus
Botrytis and mold it can be prevented using good ventilation and low humidity
Powdery mildew starts its life, grows and produces spores much like Fungus Botrytis, except that powdery mildew does not turn gray but stays a fluffy white color. Powdery mildew is easier to wipe off than Fungus Botrytis but tends to spread more quickly than Fungus Botrytis, causing the plant's leaves to be covered in a white film. This inhibits photosynthesis and leads to stunted growth. Powdery Mildew also rots bud.
Powdery mildew can be curbed using the same techniques used in the treatment of Fungus Botrytis.
Posted 17 July 2006 - 07:12 AM
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:56 PM
well i just found another one what is this bt i am from the uk can i get it over here also how do i use the sopy water eg how to apply and dilute.
keep on tokin n postin
The best stuff for this is BT (bassilious thuringiensis), This should be available in your garden shop under a variety of names. It's totally organic. Follow the directions and remember to get under the leaves and all the way down inside the bud. If not then.............
Fill up a spray bottle with water and put three drops of dish soap in it. Spray it everywhere. Especially under the leaves and in the buds. Do this again in three days. If they are already budding (past four weeks-hydro) you gotta get in there or when you harvest all your bud will be eaten. All you'll be left with is a core of webs. Get on it. Get on it now.
Posted 24 June 2010 - 04:50 PM
Go to Wal Mart or Meijer...depending on if those are by you and buy this thing called a Hot Shot.....it's harmless to your plants and kills bugs....I love them as they are super effected and only cost like 5-10 bucks
Hot shots do work good, but they are toxic to humans and animals as well. I noticed when using hot shot if I stayed in the room to long I would start feeling really sick. Took the hot shot out and the problem went away. If using hot shot I recommend only putting it in the room while your not in there. Or just leave it in the room over night and then take it out.
Posted 12 August 2010 - 06:14 PM
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