Any way to keep ph balanced in soil without testing first?

[virginharvester]

So right now I have a female doing pretty well and seems overall healthy. There are a few large bottom shade leaves that have turned yellow and died off but 98% of the plant looks healthy, especially the top 80% of the plant. I started out with high quality ph balanced nute free organic soil. But a lot of the soil is approaching three months old. The cheapest ph meter I can find locally is $80. I know I could order one from ebay for about $30. Not to mention, if I get the meter it's another step I have to learn and do right. If there is something I can add to soil that balances ph whether it needs to go up or down that's what I would like to do. Is there anything out there that eases ph into a neutral direction either way your soil needs to go? I've read a little and it seems like everything is specific to the direction you need your ph to go but I thought I'd ask just in case there is something. I'm trying not to overfeed the plant and cause a lockout or burn and I go ahead and spray with neem oil every 5 days to keep bugs and mold honest. So at this point the only thing I feel I can run into is a ph problem that causes a lockout and that's what I'm trying to avoid.

[GrowBot]

in outdoor soil grows most folks use dolomite lime to help with ph.

[virginharvester]

I don't understand what lime does but it sounds like it brings ph down. I read this about lime and ph and while I'm not sure I understand it it sounds like adding lime with water would bring ph down but slowly and that I need to know what my ph is before taking it in that direction.

After reading more it sounds like you really have to know what your ph is before you can decide which way you need it to go, which makes sense. Right now I figure my ph is probably ok if there was just something I could add to keep it that way for another month or so.

If you have some dolomite lime, its always better to use it in soil rather than every time you water, imo and from others (Uncle Ben) That it really doesn’t stabilize as many people think it does, Soil pH and micronutrient availability are interrelated. Don’t Use to much lime to decrease the soil pH to a point where micronutrients can't be unavailable to plants. The micronutrients affected by pH include iron, manganese, zinc and, not as often copper. The problems when you apply to much lime can make it harder to correct your ph than what you would have when you didn’t add as much lime. You can always add more lime, but if you add to much you can’t remove it if you put to much lime in the soil. With great soil moisture, lime will work immediately and pH will start to change over a few months. However, it can take up to a year for the real benefit of lime to work. As the soil pH rises, the time it takes for lime to react decreases due to lower levels of soil acids. If you need to change your ph when its to high, if you choose to use lime it will not help as much as you think in lowering your ph, it would need alot of lime to lower your ph to a point where it would cause a toxcicity to the plants so look else where to use something to lower your ph rather than using lime.

[virginharvester]

By the way, is there a link or something anyone has that tells me how to post pics on this site? I've looked and can't find instructions.

Thanks.

[Dr3adLoX]

Just upload the pic on the web example- mediafire.com
and then click on the insert image button while writing a post and add the link to the pic

[Ganja Guerrilla]

As Growbot said , dolomite lime can be added prior to planting to help buffer the PH of the soil, there is no magic bullet

you need to get a handel on the ph using a meter or a chemy test kit

if you PH correct all water , ferts and flush water then everything that goes in is 6.5 then your have no worries

[virginharvester]

Originally Posted by Ganja Guerrilla

if you PH correct all water , ferts and flush water then everything that goes in is 6.5 then your have no worries

I'm going to a pet store and finding a ph test kit.

How do you ph correct water with ferts added- add nutes a little at a time and take readings then add something to take it up or down depending on the reading?

[Ganja Guerrilla]

mix the ferts to the strength your plants are using.....now PH correct this solution to the Optimum range of 6.5-6.8 using ph corrector solution PH UP (potassium based products are best for PHup as our plants use potassium) baking soda is ONLY FOR EMERGENCY ......the salts will buildup causing new issues, its far to salty.....taste it

[virginharvester]

I'm back and I have the test. My water looks to be 7.0-7.2. So just to get the water to 6.6-6.8 would require ph down, right?

My nutes change the color of my water drastically. My potassium almost turns the water purple. If I mix nutes in with the water there would be no way to use the color chart to know my ph, would there?

Also, on a side note, I remember reading somewhere that in soil if you want your plant to have water/nutes as 6.5-6.8 you would need to give it .5 higher ph.. That is, water or nutes that actually measure to 7.0-7.3. Is that right?

Thanks.

[Ganja Guerrilla]

I remember reading somewhere that in soil if you want your plant to have water/nutes as 6.5-6.8 you would need to give it .5 higher ph.. That is, water or nutes that actually measure to 7.0-7.3. Is that right?

Always 6.5 - 6.8 PH going in the pots, no matter what it is

mix your nutes solution.....now measure the PH of this.......adjust accordingly, usually PHup, when mixing ferts

your tap water will require a few drops of PH down to get to 6.5 - 6.8 PH optimum range, as metropolitan water is generally alkaline

[virginharvester]

Originally Posted by Ganja Guerrilla

mix your nutes solution.....now measure the PH of this.......adjust accordingly, usually PHup, when mixing ferts

I got some pics I'll post tomorrow. Definitely something going on that needs correcting.

I still don't understand how I'll be able to measure ph by the color chart on the test kit I got from the aquarium store. When I mix my nutes the water color is what the nitrogen(fish emulsion), guano power(dirty brown), and potassium(purple) make it. It doesn't seem like I will be able to read the ph since I'm not starting out with clear water as when I'm just testing water. I'll try it though.

[Ganja Guerrilla]

yeah I see your problem, with that type of ferts ( you will need a ph meter), and if thats all your using for ferts you may infact run into micronute issues

[virginharvester]

I'm testing to see if I can upload some pics.

Upper budsite showing some kind of leaf twisting


Leaves showing possible deficiencies or lockouts






Pics of a lower budsite showing more of the mangled leaf twisting







I guess you have to click the link to see the pics. Why don't mine upload to the thread?


If I need a ph meter then I need a ph meter. I will find one somewhere especially if it's the difference between a healthy plant or a dying one.

[Ganja Guerrilla]

you MUST get the meter, & you must begin balancing your PH, your plants PH is out of whack, the PH spotting is evident, & its from the fish emulsion, which is extremely acidic,



complete a soil runoff PH test.......post your PH runoff
with PH corrected water (6.5-6.8PH ) pour enough water in the pots so the water runs out the bottom of the pot ...test the PH of this water....
If the PH reading is out of optimum range 6.5-6.8 PH, you need to flush your plant.
Flush with PH corrected water, till in optimum PH range, 3 times the volume of the pots rule of thumb but may require much more flushing if the rootball is thick & sour
EG: 1 gal pot = 3 gal. flush

[virginharvester]

Originally Posted by Ganja Guerrilla

Flush with PH corrected water, till in optimum PH range, 3 times the volume of the pots rule of thumb but may require much more flushing if the rootball is thick & sour
EG: 1 gal pot = 3 gal. flush

So I'm trying to wash all the acid out of the soil and from here on water with ph corrected nutes?