Overgrow.com Outdoor FAQ's

Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

Im gonna copy/paste all the FAQ's for the Outdoor section from the old website Overgrow.com. There will be 13 total. These have helped many growers in the past and the information is pure gold in my opinion. Im sure it will help many new and old growers here as well

1.How do I grow outdoor in Northern Countries
2. Which types of mulch are usable
3. What about poison ivy exposure
4. What is guerilla growing and what do I need to know about it
5. How do I choose an outdoor growing location
6. How do I keep my well chosen outdoor plot secure
7. What are the benefits of mulching
8. When are the average first and last frost in the U.S. and Canada
9. How do I prepare my outdoor plot
10. What are the advantages of growing in a greenhouse

Pest Control

1. How do I control grasshoppers
2. How do I protect my outdoor grow from deer
3. How do I deal with Bears

Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How Do I Grow Outdoor in Northern Countries?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: olibrocoli
Submitted: 04-09-2003

Here are a few tips to help people growing in northern countries (Canada & Alaska for example). The biggest problem (in northern climes) is frost;
frost during the spring can damage growing shoots on young plants and seedlings in the spring, and fall/winter frosts can cause problems during harvest. In summary, frost shortens the period of time we have to grow.

Here is how you can grow in a short season location, and still get huge yields :

1. Start your plants indoors

Fluorescent lights will do a great job and are very cheap. If you start the plants in late March, you can easily have mature plants (at about 1 or 2 feet tall) for the beginning of June. If you top them , you\'ll have small bushes to plant. Plant during June, there is no more risk of late frost and the vegetation will already have started to grow, making your plants more stealth and less tempting for deer (or other animals)

2. Choose a growing location carefully

This is a crucial decision; you need a location with a lot of sun. It is best to prep the site by May for out-planting in June.

My tip would be to choose a place where your plants will NOT receive direct light in the morning. This way your plants will defrost slowly in the morning as the air is warming up, and will tolerate a couple of nights where temperatures go below 0C. This is important, because of lot of strains will need these extra days or weeks to be 100% ready for harvest.

If you can\'t find a spot like this, you can try to find a place near a river or a lake, because water will help mioderate night time temperatures.

If none of this is possible, try to water a lot your plants during the evening before a frost is forecast this should protect your roots from freezing

Valley bottoms have an earlier frost

If it is possible, you can plant very close to your house; the heat of the house will prevent early frost.

A friend told me that he planted his clones in buckets and buried them in the soil to give temperature protection to the roots. Plants in pots must be buried, or your soil /root zone will become hot during the day and more cold in the night â€“ this could unduly stress the plant.

Of course, you could use protective fences from the north wind, reflective surfaces or dark objects (warm up in the day and slowly release their heat in the night) but this are things that will decrease the stealth of your grow.

3. The choice of strain is very important

Forget about long flowering sativas - choose great strains with 9 or less weeks of flowering. Here are a few I know :

Northern Lights, M39 (Shiva Skunk), Freisland, C99, Early Pearl, Early Girl ( or any "early" ) Chemo, lowrider.

Look in Strain Guide for short period flowering strains. I also suggest to try some of the Canadian seed banks - they have outdoor strains adapted to early frost.

If you can , try 2 or 3 strains, you will have more chance to find the perfect one for your region.

In summary:

Start clones during beginning of spring, choose a short or medium flowering time strain ( try different strains, you will find the best for your region) . Find a good spot who will prevent early frost and at the end of September or begining of October you should be able to enjoy the results of all your work!
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

What Types of Mulch are Usable?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Sniperman
Submitted: July 24th, 2004

Editor\'s note: Most mulches (especially composted leaves) will give off heat as they are decomposed over time. Bacteria reduce the mulch, and make mulch nutrients available to the plant. This process gives off heat - so keep mulch away from the plant stem.

Bark (chips): Long lasting, but can be expensive. The larger the pieces, the longer they last. Spread about 2 inches deep, and add nitrogen to the soil before applying the mulch.

Bark (shredded): Long lasting, and somewhat expensive. Spread 3 inches deep and add nitrogen to the soil before applying the mulch.

Buckwheat hulls: Dark brown-black in color, they last about 2 years in the (outdoor) garden. Spread them 2 inches deep.

Cocoa bean hulls: attractive, brown in color, and smell like chocolate for a short time after u spread them, they are expensive. Spread them 2 inches deep.

Compost: Dark brown color, nourishes the soil, weeds will grow right through it (outdoors). It's excellent soil container. Spread it at least 1 to 2 inches deep as mulch.

Corncobs (ground): cheap and available in agricultural areas. Add nitrogen fert to the soil before the spreading of the mulch. Spread 3 to 4 inches thick

Cottonseed hulls: add nitrogen to the soil, are effective in suppressing weeds. But tend to blow around. Apply 4 to 4 inches deep, or use 2 inches of this mulch and cover with another heavier mulch.

Hay and straw: lightweight and a good source of organic matter, but compacts over time. Alfalfa and clover hay ads nutes to the soil. Hay may contain weed seeds, especially if it's from the first cuttings. Straw contains no weed seeds, but is coarser in texture. Spoiled hay is often available in cheap farm areas. Spread it 4 to 6 inches thick in summer, 8 to 12 in the winter (outdoors)

Leaf mold: decomposed or composted leaves provide good cover and add organic matter to the soil, Good choice for woodland gardens. 2 to 3 inches deep.

Leaves (shredded): unshredded leaves can pack down and resist water penetration, but shredded leaves are effective as a weed suppresser (outdoors) and soil insulator. Good for woodland gardeners especially as winter mulch. Spread 2 to 3 inches deep in summer, 6 to 8 inches in winter (outdoors)

Paper: newspaper laid two to four deep suppresses weeds and decomposes in a year or so. Not pretty to look at so cover with another more attractive mulch is preferred. Make sure ink is made from soy.

Peanut hulls: lightweight and easy to use where available. Spread 2 to 3 inches deep.

Pine needles: Attractive, light and long lasting. Long term use may lower soil pH. Spread 3 to 4 inches thick.

Plastic: warms soil and effectively suppresses weeds (outdoors) but its impertable to moisture except where holes or slits are cut into it. Cover with a more attractive mulch if needed.

Sawdust: inexpensive, acidic, takes nitrogen from soil as it decomposes. Add nitrogen fert before spreading, or compost it before using. Spread 2 inches thick.

Seaweed: can be collected from beaches in coastal locations (free ). Good source of organic matter and trace elements, but can really stink. Soak in fresh water before using. Apply 3 inches deep

Wood chips: pretty attractive and long lasting, but decomposes faster than bark. Add nitrogen to soil before spreading. Apply 2 to 3 inches deep

Permanent Mulching

This is a a great technique for those outdoors growers, specially if you don't live close to your grow area. Permanent mulch gardening has been around since bout the 70s.

In this method the garden is covered wit one or more organic mulches as much as a foot deep. As the mulch decomposes, fresh mulch is added. The mulch stays in place all year. At planting time, the mulch is set aside as plants or seeds are put into the ground then is replaced as plants grow.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

What about poison ivy exposure?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: im_yo_pusha
Submitted: June 10, 2003

What about poison ivy exposure?

General Information
Many outdoor growers go through the dreadful experience of coming in contact with Poison Ivy. Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) is a common plant that grows throughout much of the US. The toxic chemical produced by the plant is called urushiol. It is produced in resin ducts of the leaves, flowers, fruits, and bark of stems and roots. However, urushiol is not present in the pollen grains. Urushiol is highly stable and can be spread by without direct contact, such as by petting your dog which has came in contact with this plant. It can remain on clothing and still cause a rash a year after exposure. Luckily, the resin can be removed with simple soap and water.

Identification
It can appear as a ground cover, a shrub, or as a vine growing up a tree. The leaves are always grouped in threes, is hairy and smooth and are often irregular in shape. The leaves can be slightly lobed, and are a dark waxy green, above, and light, fuzzier beneath.

Blistering
Poison Ivy is usually not severe but some cases result in a trip to the Emergency Room. Most people who react to poison ivy do so within one to two days. Contact with this plant leads to skin inflammation, or dermatitis. However, some people will react more quickly, which can be a medical emergency, especially if the face and eyes are affected. One can react to poison ivy at any age.

Treatment
A visit to the doctors is always recommended but if you feel your case is not severe, there are over the counter products that will treat Poison Ivy, Oral antihistamines can help the itching, but the antihistamine lotions wont. Aluminum acetate (Burow's solution) is recommended for topical use to sooth the itching. An Aveeno oatmeal bath is also shown to help stop itching.

<table border="1" bordercolor="#afafcf" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2" bgcolor="#f6f6ff">Do not use anesthetic sprays as they may actually make your rash more annoying.
"Zanfel" poison ivy cream is said to work very well for 40 dollars a tube.
calamine lotions are ineffective for treatment.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

What is Guerilla Growing and what do I need to know about it?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: WolfShadow63
Submitted: 01-03-2004

Guerilla Growing

STAYING ON LOCATION.

NOTE: This is not for the weak at heart, must have some outdoor savvy.

To Guerilla Grow {GG} one must have a very large area to grow on. The swamp that you choose you should know like the back of your hand. As in most swamps, there are high ridges that can be planted without the risk of flooding. It takes some looking but generally they are there. In some cases you will have to manually chop out brush for sunlight to penetrate. Find you a nice area to pitch a small tent close to your grow area that is well hidden.

I have used MANY types of bug spray, Deep Woods Off in the green can is my preferred spray. The DWO in the orange can sucks! So, don?t waste your money. Other good ones are Cutters, Repel and basically anything that has "DEETS" in high percent.

Take in only what you need to survive on. Small canned goods, one burner stove with tiny propane tanks, a hand-held scanner (you can get local news with a scanner), ear piece for scanner, a shovel for burying what you take in if you can't take it out.

When choosing your location make sure you will have a water source, as this will be your most important issue. I dig a separate hole about 20-30 feet from water and create a seep well. Once the seep well is drained, the water will seep back in about 15 minutes, creating a filtering system thru the dirt/sand. My water is drinkable, but this does not mean your water will be. You can get many purifying filters nowadays though.

You NEVER want to make a visible trail from your home. This is the reason a lot of people get busted in rural areas. That trail might not seem like much from the ground, but from the air it?s VERY visible. They simply fly back of your houses and look for trails that lead 9 times out of 10 to your garden. So keep your trail small and in the trees if possible.

Always have a quick way out! Have a separate way you never use in case you have to get the hell out of dodge in a hurry. You can get thumbtacks that have light reflector tape that can be put in trees that only you know where they are at. Here is a tip; keep them low to the ground, these are used for a NIGHT getaway in a hurry. It is good to be a thinker. The above was for the hard core.

Trail Note: Always good to wear Snake boots in the swamp.

REASON FOR BEING.

The GG must always have a reason for being. Always have a story and a plan. Never seem suspicious. Here are A few that should work for most.

# Artifact hunting, arrow heads, pottery, bones, fossil, old bottles, coins etc..
# Bird Watching, photography, Hiking, dog walking, biking.

DIRT -VS- SAND.

The GG will want to have the best soil that is in his area. This will be a crucial key into finding that chosen spot. Trees/ bushes shrubs blackberry vines are good indicators as to just how fertile the soil is as well as good companion plants for MJ. The Elder Berry tree is a good tree to plant by. Some soil might require additives though {White sand}. Avoid Blood or Bone meal when growing in the swamp as it could attract varmints. It?s good to pre choose your spot when your area is flooded. This will show the high ground. Once you have chosen your spot and got your water source ready you are ready to plant.

SEEP WELL.

Note: When digging well, never make a hole straight down unless you maintain it all the time. Animals will be attracted to your water when the water table gets down and will fall in a hole and drown, thus polluting your water.

The Main purpose for a seep well is to avoid the snakes that hang around the swamp's edges. The sand/dirt help filter the water as well if one has to drink the water. This makes your watering much easier when toting a lot of water. When you empty your hole a lot, it makes for better water. Never let your water stay for two days or more as it may become stagnate. It?s the continuing recirculating {seeping} of water that makes this work.

NOTE: DON'T DRINK WATER UNLESS YOU'RE 100% SURE IT'S SAFE.
There are many purifying systems and pills you can buy. Another thing when it comes to water for drinking in the swamp is a simple cap full of bleach per gallon of water will kill a lot of Amoeba's.

WARNING! No more than a cap full of bleach, this should only be used in Extreme conditions.

DOES THE PHASE OF THE MOON REALLY MATTER?

When planting outdoors, fishing, or hunting, the moon will be your best comrade. Always plant on the NEW moon and up past the first quarter. This goes for transplanting as well. A handy book for the GG is the old farmers Almanac, I never plant without one.

The increase of the Moon when transplanting/ planting seeds has a gravitational pull that just affects every living thing, even you. I?m not gonna get into this subject as it just seems to go the wrong way. Just believe that its TRUTH. The answer is YES... Survival rate, and ending yields are much better.

HOW DO I GET MY PLANTS TO LOCATION?

This can be done a few ways. The GG always carry his plants at night.

I start my seeds in 12"x24" plastic trays if I am planting a bunch. I let them grow in trays for about 3-4 weeks I then transplant in beds of 20-30 about 4" apart in the swamp. Once the females start showing I put them out in their separate homes about 3-5 per patch.

I carry 18 well-established plants in the same tray and plant them 3-5 to a patch in nice sunlit areas. You can put the tray in a cooler for easy toting and stealth, or you can go right out the back door at night with either 18 or the tray with a bunch.

COMPANION PLANTING.

This can make ya or break ya. The GG will have to make use of every single thing that he can that is available to him in the swamp. This can mean animals, plants and insects. The GG will want his patch very tough to get to. You will want to use every part of the swamp to your benefit. Trees that have big thorns such as the devils walking stick can be really nasty to anybody who should venture close enough. The GG should know how to use these kinds of trees to help seclude their patch.

The poke salad likes to grow in fertile soil and likes sunlight. When young, the leaves can be boiled and eaten. Much like collard/ mustard greens but when grown and producing purple berry's. They can and will make you sick or even cause death, believe this or not. Please, don?t try to find out or you will be sorry. Poison Ivry is another good companion plant.

WARNING! Poison Ivy, if allergic can be painful! If you will also notice, the dead rotten tree? This spot is A termite infestation and therefore NOT a good spot to pick. Unless you know HOW to treat them BEFORE you put MJ there. Termites will eat and hollow out plant and cause a SLOW death. Once started, they are almost impossible to stop before they kill the plant. Companion planting with the native plants is an added bonus.

The GG can learn a lot about soil like this. Just because the soil doesn?t look right does not mean it won?t grow MJ. A good way to test soil is to pull a handful up and give it a good smell. If it smells sorta like Peanuts, then most likely it is good soil. In general though, if the surrounding plants all look happy and green, then it should grow the wild wood weed fairly well. You can also pick a good spot by looking at the plants color. Some will go from light green to a deep green in a space of a half acre {as shown in the picture below}.

# Note: You will see two pine trees. One in the back ground I chopped down. The one pine tree in forefront is the same age and has a lot smaller trunk and growth. Also note the color of the plants, "The deeper the green the better the soil". Here is a short list of my favorites.

# Elder Berry
# Pokesalad
# Ragweed
# Dog Fennel
# Blackberry

CAN I TREAT MY PLANTS WITH PESTICIDE?

You will hear MANY pros and cons on this subject, the simple answer is YES. As long as your plants is NOT flowering and you use something that is not so dangerous to your environment. Your basic vegetable pesticide for tomatoes if fine. It will not hurt your young plants and it is GOOD to give them a little on occasions at first sign of pest. Just read the INSTRUCTIONS. When I use pesticide, I go STRICTLY by the direction for tomatoes.

WHAT CAN I TREAT THEM WITH IF THEY ARE FLOWERING?

There is stuff available but the ONLY one I have ever used was Insecticidal Soap. I find the best treatment is observation of plants.

FERTILIZATION.

I personally use several different kinds. I "DRY" treat when there is a lot of rain. Basic 20-20-20. 50 lb bag goes a good ways, and fairly easy toting in duffle bag. When it?s dry I water with Fish Emulsion for vegging. For flower I use Jamaican bat guano. I also use Triple super phosphate {also A dry treatment}.

WARNING! Must be careful! This stuff will burn/ kill a plant if too much is applied, but damn the size of the buds.

DEER.

Deer like to have a SAFE zone and are also VERY smart. You will see many posts about hair, urine etc.. This all works until the Deer becomes wise to your ways, and they will! Deer are constantly hunted by dogs. Deer know just when its hunting season and throwing pee, hair etc.. will not fool them long.

The absolute best animal control if one can get it is: Tiger, cougar, lion crap . It does not take much. Sun dry and put it in little pouches, {ends of old socks} then hang these little pouches in and around grow area low in the surrounding brush. Look for the deer rub, as shown in picture. Now you start peeing on THAT tree!!!! Or take you a nice DUMP right by it, and plant your MJ close to it.

That buck rub in picture is where I like to take a pee, and then I plant MJ there in "his" territory. Doe are not going to be hanging there, only other Buck looking for a fight and are not worrying about EATING. So I guess the Moral to the story is... Deer are smart indeed, but ?man? is the master that will figure out how to exist and cultivate right in their back yard with the "buck" actually watching over the MJ. It?s crazy but it works for me.

BIRDS OF PREY.

# These are my best friends. It is WISE to look for BOP. This includes nest, feeding areas, breeding grounds... The Red Wing Hawk is common in most areas. Though they hunt in the daytime, they will help keep the rats and rabbits away to some degree. Same with Red Tailed Hawk. They like to feed on bigger game like rabbits but they will eat a BIG wood rat. Any kind of Hoot Owl, these are BETTER yet, as they are night hunters. Most Rodents eat your MJ at night, so keep that in mind as well. Most of these birds like to hunt/ breed/ nest in open enough areas that should do well for MJ.

Other birds that are helpful to the GG is as follows.

# Blue Jay: They got big mouths, and will alert the GG to any thing or body that is nosing around. They get used to YOU being there.

# Crows/ Ravens: Same thing but LISTEN and LEARN, these guys are VERY helpful and a lot smarter than other birds. They will tell you many things once you get the knack for it. They will even TRACK and caw on a moving target; ie. LEO if he's coming.

# Wrens: Now these little birds will alert you to Mr. Snake. Don?t want to get snake bit in swamp now do ya? The list could go on and on, but I hope you get the picture. Just take the time to learn your birds if you area the serious GG.

INSECTS.

When planting the high ground in the swamp, you could have ant problems. Black ants, Red ants, Piss Ants! They will also want to get up away from the water as the rainy season sets in. They build a bed around trunk of small MJ plant and will eat the tender bark until the plant is "rung" around bottom. Andro Ant killer Ants will pop up any time, especially after a hard rain.

# SLIME BUG. I?m sure there is a fancy name for this next critter, I call it A slime bug. They hang out at ground level and hollow out the side of MJ stalk. They make slime/ foam looking stuff that they hide in to keep away from predators. They are mushy red/ black looking things. Easy to spot and fairly easy to deal with, observation is best.

# Grasshoppers can be pesky no doubt. In most cases GHs will only eat leaves, but a big GH can eat the top of a small plant rather easy. There is MANY kinds of GHs that will eat your MJ. I find that treating with basic garden pesticide is about the best GH protection, providing your plants are not flowering. Unless you have an army of "garden" spiders the GG will encounter GHs on a daily basis.

# There is not to many Spiders that can help the GG. However there is some good ones, mainly the Garden spider. The GG can re-locate spiders to patches. Most spiders will make their webs at the edge of patches once moved to location.

Note: When handling spiders I use two sticks for transporting. It is good to feed them once you see a web to make their move easier.

# Ladybugs are good for eating the smaller pest such as Fly Larva that lay their larva under the fan leaves. Ladybugs do not last VERY long when you take them to patches. I find it?s a waste of good time, OBSERVATION is your best insect control.

# The Praying Mantis is also a good one. These will most likely stay right on or in your plant. They eat MANY things, including your spiders, so be sure and separate them. The Praying Mantis is the over all best insect for the GG. They will stay on location fairly easy and they will eat many things. They are fun to watch and will grow very big for an insect.

# I have Tick bites that have been with me for better part of five years. They actually reoccur when I get hot and sweaty, especially one on the inside of lower right leg where my boots rub. Ticks can be a POTENTIAL killer. The "Chippawa Snake Boots" with my pants leg down inside repel a lot of Ticks as this is a MAJOR route the Tick likes to take. So at least put your pants leg in your socks.

The main thing is to check your entire body as much as possible, in particular around and base of skull/ hair. I have found that if you can get the Ticks off quickly and not let them stay attached for 24-48 hours, the bite is just another bite. Do not be ashamed to strip naked and SEARCH your entire body on a DAILY basis. Pubic area/ Balls too, the whole nine yards. If at all possible, immediately after getting home take a VERY hot shower and scrub clean.

MOLD/ BUD ROT & WORMS.

Most of the problems I have are with bud worms and mold. Well these worms help cause mold and rot. The worms not only eat the buds but they crap on them as well. So ya gotta find them turds to find the worm. The mold can be cut way back by giving the plants a good shaking in the morning dew. This is what the bug crap mixes with to cause the damage.

Butterfly turds are much like the worm turds. The smaller brown/white moths that fly thick in the swamp was at one time the little bud eating worm that devastate MJ by eating and craping down deep in the flowers. It?s not uncommon for several different kinds of butterfly's to land on growing MJ in one days time.
All this stuff will contribute to BUD ROT.

When you see ANY mold/bud rot, cut it off ASAP, sometimes you may have to remove the entire branch. If you do not cut it away, you could run the risk of it spreading. A lot of rain and HOT days will also cause mold/ rot. It is GOOD to thoroughly shake rain/ dew off MJ whenever possible if flowering.

HARVESTING AND GETTING IT OUT OF THE SWAMP.

Once the GG has successfully grown a crop, he/she will have to chop it down and carry it out of the bush.

I always harvest on the HOTTEST day. The reason I was taught is because the hot sun makes sap run in trees, hence the same theory with resin and MJ. Some say HARVEST at night but I do NOT recommend for any outdoor grower to harvest at night because of the NIGHT dew; unless forced to do so.

To get your bounty home is not that big a deal. Chop it down and tie in tight bundles, stalks up and rootball removed. If you are going thru real thick brush you might want to cover with a camo jacket to protect buds from being torn off by briars. Once you get close to where you will be picking it up later that night simply hide and tie hanging in tree.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I choose an outdoor growing location?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Leaf

Security
Do not grow on your own land (unless it is remote), so that you can show that someone could have easily trespassed on your property, and violated your land by planting marijuana. A few plants should be fine, but be careful.

You may never get caught, but there is a constant threat of suspicious neighbors, hunters/hikers and worst of all, cops.

I suggest a secure location where your plants won't get confiscated by the cops or stolen by rippers/hunters/hikers. Avoid heavy traffic areas, popular hiking trails, and recreational roads. At all costs, avoid making paths to your grow location. What seems invisible on the ground may be very apparent from the air. Try a new path each time you enter or exit your location; walking along fallen logs, in dense areas and through streams, etc.

Try to have several locations and not plant all your plants in one spot. If your plants do get eaten, ripped off, or taken by cops it is nice to have plants in other locations to fall back on. These separate locations can be close (5-20 mins hike away) or distant (Completely different areas). Planting inside a dense field of brush is very stealthy.

Fertility and sun exposure
Once you have chosen a secure location, check the area is fertile, with lots of green vegetation. Dark or black topsoil with lots of bugs/worms within the first few inches of soil is an indication of a healthy location.

Valley bottoms tend to be ideal locations because rich topsoil often washes downwards and accumulates. It can be challenging to find good sun exposure at the bottom of a valley. Valley bottoms are the first areas to have frost in the fall.

A very important consideration is sun exposure. The more direct sunlight the better (preferably a southern facing slope). North facing slopes are also a good choice.

Choosing a location near a water source saves the major hassle of having to haul water in by hand. A nearby water source allows irrigation (with pumps and hoses), making watering easy. A drawback is that people are also attracted to rivers, streams, etc and may be nearby.

Having a water source near by is great, as it usually means the tap roots of the plant will penetrate deep enough though the last 1/2 or 1/3 of the season and will not require much, if any, supplemental watering. Fertilizing will still be required periodically.

Note: Scout a location during the summer and fall to prepare for planting the following spring. The site needs to have brush removed, and a suitably sized area needs to be cleared for planting. Preparing the holes the previous fall allows soil time to compost and grow beneficial bacteria.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I keep my well chosen outdoor plot secure

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: l kiz l
submitted: 03-04-2003

After spending many hours planning, scouting, and preparing your outdoor plots for the upcoming grow season, keeping your well hidden site secure is very important if you plan on bringing in a harvest this year.

Shoes: Although they may not seem to be an element in keeping you plots secure, if for some reason your plots are intruded upon, and busted, you could possibly be put at risk because of your shoe size and brand.

To prevent this from being a problem, you can tape over the bottom of your shoes and use shoes that are either a size or two too small or too large.

Vegetation: The vegetation directly around your plot offers a good deal of protection. While entering and leaving, use anything you can to prevent a path from being made (this can involve logs, stones, rivers, etc.). As long as you don't make a noticeable path to your plants, you should be fine.

Planting in areas that you would never want to go is a good idea, because if you don't want to go there's a big chance that rippers won't want to go there either. Planting in a patch of stinging nettles or pricker bushes helps a great deal to prevent any unwanted creatures from checking out your grow . Nettles look very similar to cannabis, and when you so much as brush by them...you get a nice surprise (burning sensation for approx 20 min)

Getting there: Getting to your plot without risking your security can be a problem.
<table border="1" bordercolor="#afafcf" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2" bgcolor="#f6f6ff">Going during the late afternoon when people would most likely be in the woods is a smart thing.
Park your car at an inconspicuous place with some distance from your entry spot to the woods.
It is good to have a story ready if anyone questions you (such as picking wild berries, bird watching, or fishing) and use props to fit the story.
By going later in the afternoon, you can have ample time to work, and the sun will begin to set by the time you get back giving you the security of the blanket of twilight.

If you need to go to your plot at night for some reason, a flashlight with a red lens can be very helpful. Red lenses help your eyes see better in the dark and adjust your eyes to the setting.

Large Risk Situations: During the course of a grow, you will mostly be watering and fertilizing either via a local lake or stream, or possibly an irrigation system.

There are however some big trips that you need to take such as bringing clones/seedlings in to be planted at the beginning of the season, and the harvest at the very end of the season.

Some questions to consider include: when you plan to go, how you will bring in your seedlings and bring out your final harvest, how you will get your harvested plants to where you plan to dry it.

Final Note: While in the field, ALWAYS STAY ALERT. This is a highly risky situation. Hopefully this information will lessen the degree of danger, and help secure your grow sites.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

What are the benefits of mulching

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: hopefulgrower

Mulching is a good way of conserving soil moisture, especially in the summer.

A â€˜Mulch' is any soil covering which protects surface roots and reduces evaporation. The best mulches consist of fine, loose materials that allow water to run through to the soil, and also allow air exchange to the soil and roots.

Most mulches decompose rapidly, leaching their nutrients back into the soil. Composting the mulch before it is applied can help speed up the process, or by adding a small amount of fertilizer. Most mulches will completely break down with one year.

The depth of the mulch varies. For finer mulch, less is needed and for coarser mulches more is needed. (2-8cm,) is the average depth for mulching.

Some benefits of mulching:

~ Mulching maintains a more even soil temperature and also helps prevent the soil from freezing over. In colder climates, mulching can keep longer flowering strains (like sativa's which typically take longer to finish) alive for that extra week or so needed.

~ Mulching your plants not only saves water, but also saves how often you have to water your plants.
~ Mulches release nutrients into the soil slowly.
~ Decreases wind exposure to the surface roots.
~ Mulches can actually release heat as they break down through microbial activity.
~ A light colored mulch can reflect sunlight, reducing soil temps and evaporation.
~ Good camouflage

[Note:
~ A deep pile of mulch can suffocate surface roots
~ Don't let the mulch dry out too much ; the mulch surface can become hydrophobic and any water/rain applied to the mulch will simply run off.]

Here are some of the best mulches to use:

~ Garden Compost
~ Tree leaves (deciduous)
~ Dry Lawn clippings
~ Well rotted animal manure
~ Straw, Lucerne hays
~ Tan or pine bark
~ Saw dust, (not recommended during flowering, can stick to the buds)

For permanent mulches:
(Since marijuana is an annual plant, these are not necessary to use.)

~ Mineral substances
~ Crushed stones
~ Pebbles / Sand / Gravel
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

When are the average first and last frost in the U.S. and Canada

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: MarvinM92

These 2 charts are the average first and last frost in the U.S. & Canada... A frost is when the outside temperature is 32*F or below... Chances of a frost after the spring date and before the fall date are about 50%... Since it is an average, dates will vary from year to year...

Average First and Last Frost in the U.S.

Average First and Last Frost in Canada

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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I prepare my outdoor plot

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Leaf

A lot of the times I turn the existing soil without adding much to it, and have an excellent crop, but some sites need soil improvements. This FAQ will outline how to prepare and enrich your outdoor site.

It is best to prepare your area(s) in the fall for planting the following spring. Doing this will allow the soil additives to break down, releasing their nutrients into the soil. Simply turn the top layer of your previously prepared plots before planting at the beginning of the season. If you cannot prep your locations ahead of time, prepare them as soon as possible.

Clearing the area:
The fall is the best time to clean an area of brush and fallen trees/branches. I personally wouldn't fall a tree in the middle of nowhere.
The size of plot depends on how many plants you have. Planting in natural clumps or singularly is also dependant on preference.

The expected yield varies greatly, depending on conditions, strain and TLC.

How do I prepare the site?
I unfold a small tarp on the ground at the spot that I want to amend. Then I dig a 2' x 2' (minimum) hole, placing all the material I remove onto the tarp. I keep digging down until I reach the clay layer. I will remove the clay separately, in a 5 gallon bucket, and move it into a secluded location near by (Try to fill a natural depression with the clay, then cover with leaves and twigs).

I usually dig the hole to a depth of about 2.5 â€“ 3' feet; little if any material needs to be removed from the hole once I have removed the clay. Once completed, I loosen and break up the clay layer to a loose consistency so the roots can penetrate deeper.

I mix the soil layers on the tarp together, breaking up large chunks with my shovel. I then return about one third of the soil from the tarp back into the hole. Then the remaining soil is mixing in with some soil conditioners, depending on how fertile the original soil is and what I feel the soil needs.

Once I have added all the ingredients I feel the particular area requires, I then blend this material on the tarp and fill the hole with the mix. Loosely compact the mix by patting it down with a shovel, stepping on it, etc. A slight depression usually remains, naturally trapping water when it rains or when watering/feeding.

Soil conditioners: (A list of some of the components I add).

Perlite and vermiculite (sometimes I use Sunshine Mix #1 or #4 instead, if I feel the original dirt it is lacking in rich topsoil)

dolomite or hydrated lime

green sand

wood ash

blood meal / bone meal

glacial rock dust

worm castings

compost

pre-composted manure (chicken, rabbit, cow, bat guano, seabird, etc)

fish (Dice the entire fish into 2â€ cubes so it will decompose at a quicker rate)

I feel the lime and compost are important ingredients because they react together, rapidly breaking down the nutrients to an available form to the roots, as well as creating heat while decomposing.

Blood meal and bone meal are excellent additions; ensure that you also use lime to mask the smell from bears and other animals.

Perlite and vermiculite plots stand out in the wilderness, especially if you've prepared your spot(s) the previous fall. Make sure you have 3â€+ inches of soil covering these little white pebbles. Watering tends to make these little white buggers float and settle to the top, so make sure they are buried good.

An alternative to Perlite, vermiculite, or Sunshine Mix soils is coco-fibers. These fibers are shredded coco husks, and are excellent for providing aeration and water absorption. These fibers also seem to promote vigorous root growth, as the roots shoot along the fibers as opposed to grinding through dirt. Coco fibers are brown, so the plots look natural.

Dry/remote area tips:
Polymer crystals can be added to the mixture; they are great for absorbing and slowly releasing water. I recommend pre-expanding the crystals overnight in a bucket of water before using them at your site. They work great in grow bags too.

Another tip is to line the outside edges and bottom of your hole with plastic. This will trap all the moisture inside your hole. Just ensure to perforate the plastic at the bottom of the hole, because your plants will drown if the roots are left in water.

The site has been prepared! Now pack up everything and leave without making a trace. How much site prep and what conditioners to add depends on how remote your area is, how much enrichment is needed, and whether or not you are willing to pack all these ingredients to the area(s).
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

What are the advantages of growing in a Greenhouse?

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Greenhousin'
Thanks to: Burramys Parvus
Submitted: 06-10-2003

A greenhouse is any structure with a covering (usually glass) which is used to control temperature and humidity in the cultivation and protection of plants.

When you have a greenhouse, you effectively have your own little micro-environment that you can control. You become the God of your own little patch of land! Greenhouses don't always have to be made out of glass. Many modern greenhouses are made of plastic, or specialized materials. These materials come in a variety of color, size and thickness. Choosing materials carefully will ensure you have the best greenhouse for your situation.

Greenhouses can be simply DIY jobs using some timber and a drill, or poly tunnels using poly tubing and some polythene sheets. They can also be large custom built structures, using metal and concrete. For most people, a small DIY greenhouse (about 10-20 square meters) will do just fine.

What are some advantages?

Ability to control temperature
The greenhouse design lets light in, and when this light is absorbed by objects inside the greenhouse and turns to heat energy, it is not permitted to escape. The air temperature in the greenhouse will exceed the outside temperature. If it gets too hot, all you have to do is open up some of the ventilation panels (or just open the door, depending on the design) and the temperature will drop. Greenhouses are able to regulate temperatures; temperature fluctuations can stress plants and slow growth.

Ability to control pests
As most greenhouses have a pretty good covering over all the structure, pests can't get in as easily as they could if your plants were just out in the open. This also applies to seeds and even pollen from unwanted plants (such as weeds).

Ability to control humidity
The air-tight covering on a greenhouse causes it to become quite hot and humid inside during the day time. The moisture evaporating from the soil, and the moisture given off by photosynthesizing plants (transpiration) fills the air. Once the air is very humid, it becomes harder for plants to lose water through evaporation, and likewise with the soil. This helps to keep everything from drying out on a hot sunny day. Therefore, it is essential to have air circulation to exhaust excessive humidity and regulate air exchange.

Stealth
Nosey neighbors will have their view obstructed by your greenhouse if you choose to use slightly shaded glass/plastic, which still lets enough light through for strong plant growth, but is opaque enough as to obscure vision from the outside.

Protects your plants from adverse weather conditions
Storms can't blow your plants over and tear them to shreds when they're safely inside your greenhouse! Also helps protect plants in areas where frosts are common.

Excessive fall rain can cause powdery mildew and mold that can effect the final crop.

How does all this environmental control help?

How do higher temps help my plants?
Every plant is made up of cells. Every cell has hundreds of chemical reactions taking place inside it at every moment of the day. These reactions would be very slow, if it wasn't for enzymes. Enzymes act as catalysts for all the chemical reactions taking place in cells (including photosynthesis).

Enzymes work best in certain pH's and temperature ranges, depending on the type of enzyme. Too high or low pH, and the enzymes will work slower than normal, or might even denature (die). Too low a temp, and the enzymes will also not function to capacity, and too high results in them being denatured. Warm -but not hot- temperatures usually result in maximum enzyme efficiency, which means faster plant growth. Having perfect temperatures is like super-charging your plants!

How does higher humidity help my plants?
It helps slow the rate of evaporation from soil and plants, as the air already has a large amount of water suspended in it. Plants use water during photosynthesis (6H20 + 6CO2 (plus sunlight)= C6H12O6) so they need a constant water supply during sunlight hours. Having to battle with high evaporation rates is something they don't want! By lowering this, it enables them to photosynthesis more without losing water to the point of their leaves wilting.

Other advantages
A greenhouse is a great idea for outdoor growers who live in cold climates, or areas where pests and horrible acts of god are a common problem. It also helps hide your crops from anyone who may be having a quick look over their fence. If you want maximum control of your outdoor grow, a greenhouse is an absolute essential part of your garden!

Are there any disadvantages to growing in a greenhouse?
Well, no not really! Growing in a greenhouse is more-or-less just like a regular outdoor grow, except you have much more control over it. The one thing I would say might be a bit disadvantaging would be the humidity. It may increase the risk of mold on your buds. This is easily fixed by opening the greenhouse up a bit and letting some more fresh air in. If you're paranoid about mold attacking your plants in a greenhouse, you can use Potassium Silicate to protect your plants, which is easily available at most gardening/hydroponic shops.

NOTE - Depending on the size, and construction of the greenhouse, you may or may not need permission from local authorities. If they want an inspection, it's probably best to have it cannabis-free for a month or so.

If they want further inspections, it might be a good idea to grow all your 'special' plants in pots, and keep the greenhouse door LOCKED. When someone comes around for an inspection, simply hide the plants somewhere else until the inspection is over. I have never heard of a medium size suburban greenhouse needing to be inspected once, or on a frequent basis. Although, it may be best to check this with local authorities, just to be safe.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I control grasshoppers

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Leaf

The first question you've got to ask is are the grasshoppers doing damage... or are they just sitting on your plants? Try these simple things; if they don?t work, then we start using poison and other less desirable methods...

Passive Repellants

If they are doing heavy damage to the leaves, try placing a few dead ones on your plants, hang them there in plain view. Smash up some fresh cloves of garlic and spread them around your plants. Try Moth balls (They seem to repel all kinds of critters).

Set up some stakes around the perimeter of your plants, and use a fine mesh around your plants. It will let in lots of light, air, rain, etc but keep the larger critters like grasshoppers out. Make sure you do not trap a bunch of them within the mesh when setting it up. This method completely ruins a stealth garden. In addition, you must remove the mesh when you water/feed your plants, and you will have to keep raising it higher as your plants grow taller.

You can try spraying with a homemade mixture. Mix water, crushed garlic, hot peppers, tobascco sauce, and other hot and/or repulsive ingredients into a big pot, bring to boil, stewing everything around. Let this mixture sit for a few days, stirring occasionally. Strain the liquid out into a spray bottle and spray your plants two or three times a week, and after rainfall. Try not to spray the bud sites later into the season. That should keep the buggers away; however the sweet liquid may attract ants, which are easier to kill off.

Chemical control

If the hoppers are persistent, you can add poison (like diaznol or similar) and spray the plants, but be very careful not to spray the bud sites! Some chemicals are 'puffed' onto your plants, however after morning dew or rain, the powder will get wet and run into your buds! As a result, the powder will remain as a wet clump and cause mold, ruining your entire crop. If your crop does survive, you are smoking poison.

Stoner133 has brought to my attention that the natural enemies of grasshoppers include beetles, birds, mice, snakes, and spiders.

brokenear suggests this recipe:
7 pints water
1 pint liquid Sevin % Dust
1 pint molasses
10 pints wheat germ

Mix all together to form a dough-like substance and roll into balls to place around your plants. You can even mold a string into the balls and hang them in your plants. Apparently the hoppers love it, to death! Bait provides yet another option for grasshopper control. Sevin insecticide can be impregnated on bran bait at a rate of 2% or 5% to provide good control, when properly timed.

Early treatment is the most effective and may be the most effective way to deal with localized grass hopper damage.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I protect my outdoor grow from deer

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: livin 4 now
Submitted: 29-07-2003

Soap: Heavily scented soaps work at repelling deer. Among these are Irish Spring and Zest. What you do is shave the soap in thin slices around your plot. The pros are that it works, but the cons are that you must replace the soap once a week. This gets very old very quick, as well as cost you money every time.

Human Scents: Deer dislike the smell of human scents. One method of spreading your scent around is to urinate all around your site. What you may also choose to do is urinate in a 2 liter soda bottle, and pour it around your plot when you visit. Urine, like the soap, will need to be replaced every week. Another, more cumbersome, yet more efficient solution is to spread human hair around the area. This may be retrieved from a barber shop. In this case, you simply throw fistfuls of hair around the area, and it is said to repel deer for a few weeks, unless rain washes it away.

Fencing: Ive found that simply setting up a physical barrier around your plot will keep deer away. You'll want to pre-measure the perimeter of your area. Make sure the fence is at least 3 feet past your plants on all sides so the deer doesn't reach in and snack on fresh shoots. Then go to a local hardware or superstore and get 2 lengths of dark colored fencing that are long enough to reach around your plot. This fencing can range from wire to rope, just anything that's strong and will resist stretch. You'll need multiple lines to prevent small babies up to large deer from eating your grow. A line about 2 feet, 3.5, 5 ft and 7 ft should suffice. It is my understanding that fawns are copying their mothers actions for the most part, but you should not underestimate their curiosity. Fawns probably won't ruin your grow, larger deer will. I've personally seen a deer hurdle a 5 ft barbwire fence. 7 ft should be plenty. If you have extra line feel free to make more wraps. If you wrap your plot with the above suggestion, you are not guaranteed protection from deer, but they will surely not jump the fence unless necessary.

If you are paranoid about it, you can hang branches from the line as camouflage. This will not "hide" the fence, but it will break the outline.

Ive found that the fence method works best. It works just as well as the others, but is also reusable. After harvest, simply cut or untie your fence, roll it up and store it with your other supplies until next season.
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Underpantsman · Apr 25, 2008

How do I deal with Bears

overgrow.com said:

Contributed by: Leaf

Perhaps one of the greatest challenges that face the outdoor grower is the threat of bears. Not only is the bear a threat to your plants, but the bear is certainly a threat to you as well. Lets first start off with a little information on bears.

Background

Although bears are primarily nocturnal, they may be seen at any time, day or night. The bear is territorial and usually occupies an area that is 20-25 square kilometers. This means that if you have a bear damaging your grow bags and digging up your plants time after time, chances are it is the same bear. Don?t let a bear?s appearance fool you though, they can weigh between 200 and 600 pounds, be from four to seven feet tall, yet they can run as fast as 50 km/h. The Black Bear is omnivorous which means that it eats both vegetation and meat, however their diet usually consists of leaves, nuts, and fruit.

Why are bears attracted to my plot? Repellants?

Bears are not really attracted to your plants like deer, but rather to the organic nutrients that you put into the soil to feed your plants. Bears have an incredible sense of smell, and will follow odors for kilometers. They are especially attracted to bone and blood meal, common ingredients used for growing marijuana. Bears are also attracted to manures, fish (fish emulsion), and composts that are used when preparing the soil for planting. Commercial composts are comprised of food and organic waste, cow manure is high in fiber and fats - exactly what a bear is looking for.

When using organic nutrients outdoors, consider using lime; not only does it stabilize pH, it also masks smells.

Another natural repellent for bears is chicken manure. Dried and composted chicken manure is a great nutrient additive for your plants, so spread the manure liberally to repel bears and it will repay you with nutrients later. After using chicken manure at my grow area, along with lime, I?ve never had a bear problem.

Protecting yourself

If you encounter a bear in the forest, stay calm and do not run. Running may elicit a chase response by the bear. The best available advice is to stand your ground. Stand tall, raise your arms and lift objects over your head to make yourself appear larger.

If a bear stands up when encountered, this does not indicate he is going to attack. Most likely the bear is curious and wants a better view or to sniff the air. Back away slowly, and leave the bear an escape route so he does not feel threatened. I have read that the bear feels threatened if he chomps his jaw, lunges, or slaps the ground with his paw.

An air horn can be effective when hiking in the forest. If you encounter a bear, simply shoot off a blast which will, in most cases, make the bear run away. Another item that you may choose to carry is a 5% capsaicin spray repellent which can be sprayed into a bear?s eyes, causing it to retreat.

Bear attacks on humans are very rare. Bears have been known to be aggressive when cubs are present, yet rarely attack humans. There are only two recorded human deaths as a result from an attack from a Black Bear, ever.

Hopefully this will help you when dealing with bears in the wild, and good luck to you!
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HighGrowMan · Apr 25, 2008

sticky

randell · Apr 25, 2008

THANKS FOR THE GUIDE!! in my opinon it should be a sticky

Underpantsman · Apr 26, 2008

randell said:

THANKS FOR THE GUIDE!! in my opinon it should be a sticky
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No problem but really all I did was copy/paste. Those old screennames from overgrow.com made those posts, thats why their names are in there. Lots of good info in there, everyone should soak it up and try to remember it. Everyone should also experiment their own techniques and "tricks" but I think its a great starting point.

Cinderella99 · Apr 26, 2008

Thanks for this OG info that you were smart enough to save....

I've got about 20GBs of old OG reference material, mostly saved through "anonomizer" web pages that I'd also like to break out... Is here the spot?

Best regards

Norma Stits · Apr 26, 2008

yeah for real!
great info man +rep

Underpantsman · Apr 28, 2008

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