CFL/BAG SEED Card Board box

Discussion in 'Micro Grows' started by GrowsAndUses420, Jun 28, 2011.

  1. Me and My partner decided to grow one seed we found in our sac it was some pretty good bud so we decided on trying to cultivate so far were doing pretty good. Please comment and let me know what i shud work also please no comments on the mylar we know its bad we were just in a rush
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    Dollar store lights "13 watts", Fox Farm Ocean Breeze Soil
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    Computer Fan number 1
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    Computer Fan number 2
    :smoke::hello:
     
  2. Dayum Son! Sick ass cab
     
  3. ps: make sure no light gets in at night, also unhook led lighting in usb fan if run during night. peace
     
  4. Yeah you should really tear that LED strip off of the fan. Also that tin foil will cause heat spots and other problems because it isn't smoothly applied. Maybe a can of white spray paint would be better for the cardboard box.
     
  5. do you have more pics? my first grow was in a cardboard box, results were good so if you need any help let every one know i'm pretty sure someone will help you out
     
  6. [​IMG]
    this is at 12 days
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    15days


    Is not developed enough?:confused:
     
  7. the temp is kinda high, i would reccomend building a less flamable box with better airflow. also are both of those fans sucking air out or is one an intake/outtake?
     
  8. definitely time to move that plant, you probly have some serious root lock going on due to lack of space... Its incredibly surprising how large of a root system can grow in just two weeks after germination. I had my babies in cups as well and they suffered a lil from not having room to grow, now they are much happier in larger pots.

    Tip for transplanting: let the soil dry out well so when u cut away the cup the roots will hold onto the soil better making your transfer much smoother. Just be sure to account for the size of the root ball and dirt when making a depression in the new home
     
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    Temperature
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    I transplanted it yesterday into a clay pot
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    At 16 days in its new pot
     

  10. Yes the white is intake and the black is outtake
     
  11. There is always a debate to rather you should have an active intake (a fan blowing air in) or passive intakes (open holes with no fan blowing in). Personally because i live in such a high temp environment, I have an active intake (along with 3 other passive intakes) that I can hook directly to my a/c unit and pull cold air into my box to get my temps down. But at anytime i can shut the fan off and make my active intake a passive one.
    If you only have 1 exhaust, maybe u should make more passive intake holes to let air come in naturally. Again i have a good reason to have an active intake, but in a more temperate climate, or if i didnt have an a/c unit, i would just have more passive intake holes and flip my intake fan as an exhaust. Hope this helps a little?

    Further, too check that u have some passive air moving in, light a lighter up in front of the passive intake holes. if the flame goes towards the intake hole, then u have negative pressure and this is good for passive air. Ok, hope that helps a little more:p
     
  12. Once you get your temps under control I would recommend moving that lovely plant a lil closer to the lights to avoid stretching. Unless you want it to stretch a little so you can begin FIM & LST both of which I highly recommend in order to produce max yield assuming it is a female
     

  13. Our temp stays at around 86 degrees but yes we are trying to stretch the plant so we can begin LST but which LST method would you recomend for us to use?
     
  14. Also when should i begin to add more lights?
     
  15. #15 Like 420 Ninjas, Jul 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2011
    Look in the beginners section I believe there is an excellent sticky on LST, in fact, fuck it here is the link ==> http://forum.grasscity.com/plant-training/122936-how-lst-low-stress-training.html

    As for FIM techniques ==> http://forum.grasscity.com/plant-training/122559-how-fimming-topping-made-easy.html

    Currently it looks like you have 6x 13W CFLs there, do you know what their Kelvin(K) rating is... They should be 6500K for veg and 2700 for flower, the 6500K are usually labeled as "daylight" where as the 2700K is "soft light" .... Chances are that you have soft light as they are normally cheaper, I would recommend going to Lowe's or Home Depot and picking up a few to fit 4x 26W CFLs in the 6500K (Also, Walmart has them fairly priced as well). It is recommended you use 100W per square foot and then 50W for every foot after that I believe. But you can grow with less, it only means a smaller growth and lower yield normally.
     
  16. may i ask why he is supposed to remove the led lights on the fan? does it mess with the bud or something?
     
  17. two areas of concern i would have:

    1) temps are a bit high, once you start getting above 85ish with minimal air flow, there is really low oxygen content in the air and they really suffocate.

    2) Not sure you have enough light there. CFLs really need reflectors to direct the light in the way you want; w/ your current setup, about 40-50% of the light is being directed upward away from the plant. And as someone else mentioned, you could probably use higher wattage bulbs to help correct this. I might also prop the pot up higher so the plant is within 6-12" of the bulbs.
     
  18. if he has a dark period, or when he goes 12/12 that LED light will be no good as the box would not be 100% light proof. The light is attached to the fan which means when the fan is on the light is on. Not very good when you want your plants to sleep :smoke:
     
  19. Are you monitoring your pH levels?
    [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Evolved-Habitat-Meter-Tester-70018/dp/B002KEM516/ref=sr_1_4?s=miscellaneous&ie=UTF8&qid=1309534136&sr=1-4]Amazon.com: Evolved Habitat Evh Ph Meter And Tester Md.# 70018: Everything Else[/ame]
    Your perfect range for pH is (I believe) 5.8-6.2, correct me if im wrong.
    Interesting grow though
     
  20. Yes, once your plants have matured and are ready to flower you will switch them to a 12/12 light period. During this period when there is 12hrs of darkness you need to be absolutely as light tight as possible. Any light leaking in can possibly stress your plants into thinking they are going to miss their appropriate time to be pollinated. This causes them to go into "survival" mode and they will become Hermaphrodites in order to pollinate themselves and survive. The results are seedy buds and lower yield :(
     

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