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It does still look very green, doesn't it... have you strained yet?

Either way, so long as you didn't over-decarb you should have decent success. Kingoku (another member here) had success when he accidentally over-decarbed, sometime last summer, but he probably decarbed about the same amount you did.
If he stops in, maybe he'll let us know if his oil was a pale shade of green as well... I think he only used 1/8th for his brownies, and was very pleased.


If you aren't sure of, or can't trust your oven/temps one way or the other, it's always best to cut back on the pre-decarb rather than extend it, and instead you will want to extend the oil portion of the process, by as much as an entire extra 40 - 45 minute heating to ensure decarboxylation takes place.
Decarboxylation still continues in a pure oil source, it just continues at a much more gradual, and protected pace, and while it can still degrade while submerged in oil, the converted D9-THC, once it's available, will not degrade nearly as fast with its oily protection as it would, when compared to exposure to hot, dry air.


Remember, that the herb itself, and inert plant matter, does not need to be brown in order to be decarbed; when that too, turns brown, after it had previously been a reasonable shade of green it usually means it's absolutely done, probably more than done, and that's when you should stop immediately!

I only wait for a noticeably visible brown-ish color in my dry sift hash (and when using herb, a jewelers loupe or magnifying glass can help you inspect the glands, to determine if your herb is close to being finished... next batch I make with my own material, I'll take some macros of the glands on the herb before, and after the decarb.
Lately I've been somewhat dry, smoke-wise at least, and I've been working almost solely with patient-supplied material when making new oils... for myself, and my own medibles, besides one recent batch of fudge made with clarified butter and coconut oil for a tutorial, I've been mainly relying on reserves of pre-made oil from September/October).





Also, are you squishing the material with a spoon when you take it out, before freezing it, by the way? Manual agitation definitely helps (versus extending the process).

**re-reading tutorial, a few minutes later**....


I just noticed something... the Canna Oil tutorial was a work-in-progress through-out a few busy days, and usually I'd rather try to bang them out all in one sitting (so I can 'think'-type my way through the process smoothly from start, to finish, all in one go.... if I stop half-way through, and pick up at a later date, I'm a bit more likely to forget to add a point, or a disclaimer, or a secondary option)..

Anyhow, I just re-read the tutorial for maybe the first time since I posted it up, and I've only just noticed that I didn't include both the freezing options, and their benefits and limitations, I only left the hastier of the two...
Most of the time, when walking folks through the process, you've probably heard me recommending to freeze during the middle-point of the process for at least a few hours, if not over night, then to re-heat again for the additional 40 - 45 minutes after the freeze. That would be 'Option A'.
The tutorial seems only to contain what should have been noted as 'Option B', heat for 40 - 45 mins, stop, manipulate the material, cover, re-heat for 40 - 45, cool, freeze briefly, then warm enough to strain. I can only imagine I stopped writing there for the day, and picked up the next, assuming I covered both points.


I'm glad I noticed before I sent off the manuscript, with that tutorial as-is! That's not happening for a few weeks. So far, I've only sent cover letters explaining what to expect, and only the publishing houses who've replied, are getting the manuscript.
But I may not have noticed that skipped option, if I wasn't trouble-shooting for you... so thank you, Valerian


And I'm very sorry if it's about to cause you to take extra time with your oil, if possible... but if you do have the time, freeze it for at least a few hours, thaw it (so you don't shock your glass), and give it another 40 mins. If it's still a green color at the end, I have no idea what the problem could be, besides maybe the coconut oil has water contamination of its own (I looked up your brand, and it's still just coconut oil lol, not sure what i was expecting to find, it's the same saturated fat content etc., no major differences that I could determine by just the ingredients and nutrition label, and without seeing the oil in person).



One last item to consider.... in a jar, there is less surface space, and it will take longer for the oil in the center to reach and maintain the right temps while it's an inch or more deep, versus 3/4" of oil or less, in a flat and wide pyrex dish.


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No worries though! I don't mean to sound 'doom and gloom', because I still think your oil should work very well this time, just so long as nothing adverse happened during the decarb.


Trying to take everything into consideration, the pale oil and all, my only suggestions for your next try would be to sample a different brand of coconut oil if possible, cut back on the decarb, and to find a more-flat dish.


Here are a few affordable options from ebay.. I "think" they should fit a toaster oven, but if you're using one (a toaster oven that is) then you may want to measure yours specifically and compare, before making any purchases.

Double sided pyrex serving dish | eBay

(This one may be too large/wide, and may prevent smaller to medium-sized toaster ovens doors, from closing properly)
Pyrex Clear Glass Fluted Pie Plate Dish 9.5 Inches 229 | eBay

(This one is oval in shape, and may have a better chance of fitting better while providing more surface space, but ask the seller for measurements.. I saw none listed)
oval pyrex dish england | eBay

Pyrex 6017471 3-1/2cup Rectangle Dish (071160174719) | eBay


You may have better luck (price-wise), at your local dollar store, others local discount stores, or a 'Christmas Tree Shop', if you have that bargain chain in your area.

 

Good good, and again I'm sorry about the confusion, I honestly didn't know I'd only recommended a finishing-freeze, rather than the middle-freeze, until today! But I'm especially glad to hear that last bit, for Valeriens sake


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I hope your fiancee slowly (or better yet, quickly!) starts to improve more soon, now that the growth/tumor seems to have gone missing

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And congratulations again, by the way... I get seriously-giddy every time I hear a success story like yours and your fiancees!

It's a crime that our medicine has been (and technically still is) illegal, for so long.


I wish we had someone to punish for it... but baby steps. And I'd take full-blown legalization for everyone, over punishment (which would be too-little too-late), any day of the week.

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One way to compare (different batches, between your usual method and more coconut oil), would be to grind up the same plant matter and divide it into two equal-weighted batches, then process each separately, side-by-side... the batch containing a higher oil to canna ratio, will require a larger number of capsules, before the same medicinal content is consumed.

In theory, where it is the same glandular material in each batch, the one with an improved or increased coconut oil MCT vehicle should either help improve absorption and increase the 'perceived' effectiveness of her meds (pain/sleep-wise), or provide roughly the same effects, rather than less.. if the liver is functioning normally!




Hemp oil has a lower medium-chain triglyceride content, than coconut oil... there is always a small chance your fiancee may be over-metabolizing her cannabinoids in the liver, regardless of the contents of her stomach prior to taking her meds, in which case fewer MCTs, or more long-chain triglyceride containing oils would be her best route of administration sensation-wise. Longer-chain triglycerides promote lymphatic absorption, which causes potency to largely bypass the liver, all together.


And you can also choose to make her unique meds, using the same cannabis and different oils and levels of processing, to 'confront' various and different problems, and different problematic areas of the body... the long-chain triglycerides, whether or not they provide stronger 'sensation' (and even if they do not), should allow the active material to hang around in the tract for longer, it should progress 'lower', coming into contact with the pancreas more, rather than immediately diffusing through the portal vein and liver. And more medium-chain triglycerides, should provide the sensation she needs for sleep and pain relief.


It's also worth mentioning that 'perceived-sensation', sometimes may, but also may not have quite so much to do with the actual 'healing' taking place within the body...


That being said, I would also try lengthy/long-term cold extractions of bioavailable, but 'inactive' THCA (in addition to what you've been doing, since it's obviously working!), to see if she responds or benefits from that form of treatment as well. THCA has cancer-fighting, and ***anti-inflammatory*** benefits all of its own, which are unique, compared to the similar benefits provided by 'activated' THC.

"“THCA” =D9-THCA = Delta9-THCA A: D9-tetrahydrocannabinol acid – This is the precursor to THC and is typically the most abundant cannabinoid produced in most plants grown at present. (Dried cannabis typically contains 15-25% THCA.) A large fraction (but not all ) of the THCA converts to THC upon strong heating (> 200F). The amount converted depends on the details of the temperature and timing. THCA has been shown to have anti-spasmodic and anti-proliferative (anti-cancer) properties, as well as evidence of anti-inflammatory activity. (In fact, there are other acid forms of THC, but they are almost always present in only very small quantities. THCA A and THCA B differ only in the placement of the carboxylic acid group. THCA A is almost always the version referred to when no designation is made.)

“THC"= “D9-THC” = Delta9-THC = D9-tetrahydrocannabinol – Thought to be the most psychoactive of the cannabinoids and largely attributed with many beneficial medical properties, such as pain relief, appetite stimulation, anti-spasmodic properties, anti-emetic properties and many more. Plants don’t produce this compound directly. (Dried plant material contains only a few percent THC.) It is produced from THCA (see next entry) by heating or exposure to UV light. Not all THCA ends up as THC. Heating has been shown to convert at most about 70% of the THCA into THC. The “D9” in the name indicates the specific location of a carbon-carbon double-bond in one of the rings" Some Medicinal Properties of Cannabinoids | halentlabs.com




We're so fortunate, in that canna is so safe and non-toxic, upon exposure to large quantities... it allows us to bombard our systems, in ways that you just can't do, safely, with many other 'drugs'.
And the more angles you use to 'attack' a problem, the more likely it's going to submit, and retreat!

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Multiple freezes and heatings, or one very-long (full day) of freezing in between, definitely increases the bioavailability of your oil. Processing longer in oil to ensure activation and narcotic sensation (especially useful for pain, sleep, and recreational effects) is also much safer for your overall potency, than pre-decarbing for too long in the hot dry air.

If I process in oil a little longer than usual, this is me in about a half hour, to forty minutes after a dose:



Pressure cookers rely heavily (if not entirely) on the steam released by the food, that is being cooked... they also strongly recommend that you do not fry or use oil in a standard pressure cooker.... and even the special/specific pressure-fryers, still rely on the pressure created by the moisture-content of the food you're frying.

They were good for the old water-butters! The water provided the steam and pressure. But in our case, by the time you add your oil and herb, you should have virtually no moisture present. This is why you can heat oil in the oven (similar to the cannabrex concept) using temps beyond the boiling point of water, using a sealed canning jar, without (too much) risk for causing an explosion. Long story short, it doesn't make much difference, and with the wrong type cooker it can ruin the seals, and be dangerous!

 

Ah, I suppose without all the extra info, I didn't know what you were trying to attempt.


It's one way of going about it, if you can't trust the temps of your oven. The only time you'll save, is if it heats up faster than your oven can re-heat after you've opened the door (and they usually do). I counter that in the oven by making sure my coconut oil is nice and hot, and that the dish my herb decarbed in is still fairly warm, before combining them and placing it in the oven.
But still, you may be able to shave a few minutes off the process, maybe between five and ten, and have a fairly well-controlled and consistent method of processing your oil, similar to some of the fancier industrial pressure ovens.


But keep in mind that inside the secondary container with your oil and delicate cannabinoids, 260f is still 260f, and the reason I don't process in the oven that high, is because more degradation can occur before it becomes as bioavailable as it needs to be.

If you could get your psi down to 5 pounds, or about 220f, you'd be golden.

 

You are thinking of the inferior-quality lecithins, which are added to cheap, mass-manufactured food products... these lecithins are often byproducts of unhealthy soybean production. That's a different story entirely, from what we use.


It is MUCH different, from the pure and non-GMO, supplement-grade lecithin, used here.

You do realize that much of your body is comprised of lecithin, correct? Minus all the negative processing and chemicals discussed in that article, lecithin is -very- good for you, and most people need more in their diets!



"Dietary Supplement

Nervous System Support

Non-GMO
Identity Preserved
Supports Brain & Nerve Function
Integral for Energy Production*
Vegetarian Product

Lecithin is a naturally occurring compound found in all cells in nature, plant and animal. It plays a major role in almost all biological processes - including nerve transmission, breathing and energy production. The word Lecithin is taken from the Greek Lekithos, which means "egg yolk". A fitting name for this essential nutrient, for the egg is considered a symbol of life, strength and fertility.

Lecithin is important for all of these biological functions and more. Our brain is approximately 30% Lecithin. The insulating myelin sheaths that protect the brain, spine and thousands of miles of nerves in your body are almost two-thirds Lecithin. Even the heart has a high concentration of Lecithin.

Lecithin is composed of many different components, including Choline, Inositol, Linoleic Acid, Phosphatidylserine, beneficial fatty acids and triglycerides. These valuable constituents of Lecithin are vital for the proper functioning of many metabolic processes.*
NOW® Non-GMO Lecithin Granules are derived entirely from Non-Genetically Modified soybeans that have been Identity Preserved (IP). This guarantees that the soybeans are from seedstock that has been certified as Non-GMO. "


Edit - It's also recommended that people take 1 and 1/2 Tbsp, daily.... considering that we only use a few tsp per batch of oil, and only an edible or two per batch is consumed per day, that's a tiny fraction of the daily recommended dose.

 

Sounds good! Be sure to let us know how it works out for you, if you're looking for a good night's sleep a longer heating is the way to go about it.


I used to have terrible insomnia problems when I was a bit younger (I tend to get sick in the early morning when I first wake up, it was worse when I was younger before I started medicating as much as I do now, and for a long time I 'combated' this effect to some degree by sleeping only 3 - 4 nights a week), and when I first started making oils I learned my daytime caps are those as described here in the tutorials, and my night time caps are always best a little over-processed. This is due largely to the increased levels of CBN.


A big complaint with over-processed edibles, is that they make many recreational users fall asleep, before they can 'fully enjoy the experience'...

But that's not always a bad thing on the medical side!


And if you want a 'racey' up and lucid 'high', rather than the 'stone', try decarbing for only 6 - 8 minutes, freeze it right after decarbing, for at least a few hours in the coldest location in your freezer (usually near the ice-maker, or where the ice trays should sit), then heat for only 50 - 60 minutes..... these oils are best in cold recipes, or capsules, to avoid further activation!
This dates back to even my pre-activation days, where we'd quickly process in oil on the stove, then eat multiple times the amount we'd normally smoke for a more energetic high. With only a little activation beforehand and a quicker heat, if your sedative/pain dose is a comfortable half a gram for instance, you'll want to try for a whole gram, to a gram and a half per dose...


This can cause anxiety in some, just remember that you're in a safe place, and if you need to, take a dose of already prepared, fully decarbed (and a bit over-heated) oil to fix up the ratios, and level yourself back out.


For me, I'll take two or three 'upper' capsules every now and then, and if I feel like I've had enough after a few hours, I'll level it out with either a standard day-time or over-processed cap, or two.


Hope this makes sense, I just had my evening medible pizza an hour or so ago, and it's settling me down nicely, and probably making me a bit rambly


-Fast Bacon, Chicken & Hash Meatball, Canna Pizza-

Hash oil on the dough, hash oil in the meatballs! It's 'fast' because I didn't have to make the dough,
or wait to let it rise












edit -

If you're making BHO yourself, is there any chance you could decarb your material before hand?


Otherwise, if you're using much heat to evap off the butane, it partially decarbs by the end of the process. If you use a wide enough tray, where it creates a very thin later, just wait until the butane has been satisfactorily purged, then cover and place it in your oven and decarb as normal. Combined with the partial activation that took place during purging/evaporation, a good 20 minutes or so at 220 as a paper-thin layer is usually sufficient. If you've purchased it or it's already been made and stored, you can gently heat it, make it pliable and spread it thin, and continue decarbing it yourself, and hopefully it wasn't already over-heat-purged and decarbed!


I like to use high proof grain alcohol, a fan, and the lowest temp on my home electric oven for making extracts... it takes about 40 minutes to evap 8oz's of 190 proof grain alcohol in a 9" pie dish at 170, with the door cracked open a half inch and an oscillating fan blowing directly at it (this helps prevent dense pockets of flammable alcohol vapor from occurring, the safest route is a fan alone, with no heat, by an open window for a day or so, depending on the humidity), and another 20 - 25 minutes to get the flattened few grams of extract about as decarbed, as I like it to be. Then I process in oil as normal, except that I manipulate it manually a bit more frequently.

If I've decarbed first, I actually add my oil to the wash before it's evaporated, then add lecithin to the oily mix once the alcohol is gone, and process a bit less than I would, had the oil been added later on at the end. Which way I go, depends on whether or not I'm making a batch to split down the middle, half for a smoke batch of extract, and half for a edible/topical batch of extract oil.
When doing that, I'll often save the decarb for the end, because if it's already decarbed, exposure to secondary heat upon smoking, usually degrades the material a bit more than I like, by the time it makes it to my lungs


If you're making a topical, I STRONGLY suggest a combination of emu oil and coconut as your carrier.... that, or olive oil, hemp oil, cacao butter, coconut oil and/or shea butter (all, or any combination you like!), if the thought of emu makes you squeamish.


As far as topical solutions go, I definitely recommend them for localized pain and discomfort, and for promoting circulation!

(These are each displayed, between a week ((emu)), to two+ weeks ((L-Arginine)) from completion...)









I use these for my: wrists, spine, shoulders, and hips (and any other areas that may occasionally ache!) Good topicals can penetrate, and provide relief up to a few inches deep, so it's great anywhere you may need localized help. I also have patients who use topicals with success, for various skin disorders, eczema etc.

These are made with, rather than calling it a hash extract, I just call it a 'cannabis extract' which is a bit more accurate... chlorophyll and plant extracts costs between $10 and $50 a bottle, and it's great for the skin and for digestion!

A longer wash in alcohol pulls out more of what we usually consider 'inert' and unnecessary plant matter, primarily in the form of chlorophyll which is structurally almost identical to the hemoglobin in our blood, helps replenish red blood cells, it reduces carcinogens ability to bind to tissue, can be great when used topically, and orally for freshening the breath, and aiding digestion, and in both cases even for detoxifying the system of unhealthy debris.


Sorry that I had to edit and 'add' this after I clicked the post button... by the time I replied to gangee, it had already slipped my mind that I had to write this up, as well. I hope this is enough info to get you started!