PROJECT #2: Code Name Mother Earth

[docmojoman]

Hello and welcome to my new project. To be honest, the code name "Mother Earth" is the one I made up for GC - at home it has another name related to the womb;-P

OBJECTIVE: Create a highly efficient grow system that is all inclusive. It must have a small footprint and be as self contained as possible. It should also not look very conspicuous.

I am researching 2G11 lights for this system for their intensity and for the fact that I can locate the ballasts seperate from the grow room thereby reducing heat.

I have seen and been pretty impressed by "NBG" style boxes and my design will borrow from these heavily.

4 x 55w 3000k 2g11 = 19,200 lumen
- 1 Fulham Workhorse 7 ballast
- 4 50w 2g11 lights 4800 lumen each

UPDATE!
Project Mother Earth has been revised to include this criteria:
- Box must have multiple lighting options for the cooled lighting areas.
- see illustration sketch

Note: Utilizing this option in design, I believe I have effectively created a system that I can build up gradually as more available monies become available. This way, I will be able to light this box with the lighting that I currently have.

[docmojoman]

I have received the 4 55w 3000k 2g11s and the ballast and after I ordered them I began worrying about the color temperature being above 2700. 2700 being the temp I am currently working with for flowing with cfls. Then I looked up the color tem for HPS which is around 2000 - 2100k.

So I found myself an all red led panel for a modest price. I think this will make a good supplement to my flower room set-up.

Here's an early sketch:

[docmojoman]

Some details from earlier. I've got much more worked out in my head. When I get them down on paper or in 3D, I will up load them.

These 2g11's look good - has any one else had any experience with them?

[docmojoman]

Ventilation - the toughie!

My experience thus far when it comes to ventilation has been pretty rough! I do know the formula which is take the total area of the space to be ventilated and multiply by 5 to get the optimal cfm rating for an exhaust fan.

My calculated cfm rating should be 135. So, from Grainger's I have been looking at these models:

VENTILATION

PSC Blower,115 Volt - 273 cfm
HVACR > Blowers > Small Centrifugal Blowers > PSC Blower,115 Volt : Grainger Industrial Supply $92.10
Grainger Item # 1TDR3
- 273 cfm
- Inlet Dia. (In.) 4 5/8
- Outlet Height (In.) 3 5/8
- Outlet Width (In.) 4 1/8
- Overall Height (In.) 9 7/8-
- Overall Width (In.) 7 11/16
- Overall Depth (In.) 8 7/8
CFM @ 0.000-In. SP 273
CFM @ 0.100-In. SP 245
CFM @ 0.200-In. SP 230
CFM @ 0.300-In. SP 210
CFM @ 0.400-In. SP 183
CFM @ 0.500-In. SP 135
--------------------------------------
Blower,,115 V - 134 CFM
Grainger Item # 2C647
Price (ea.) $66.75
Inlet Dia. (In.) 4 1/2
Outlet Height (In.) 3 1/8
Outlet Width (In.) 3
Overall Height (In.) 8
Overall Width (In.) 5 5/16
Overall Depth (In.) 7 7/16
CFM @ 0.000-In. SP 134
CFM @ 0.100-In. SP 126
CFM @ 0.200-In. SP 117
CFM @ 0.300-In. SP 107
CFM @ 0.400-In. SP 96
CFM @ 0.500-In. SP 79
--------------------------------------
PSC Blower,115 Volt 146 CFM
Grainger Item # 1TDP7
Price (ea.) $79.65
Inlet Dia. (In.) 3 1/8
Outlet Height (In.) 2 3/16
Outlet Width (In.) 3 1/4
Overall Height (In.) 5 3/4
Overall Width (In.) 6 5/16
Overall Depth (In.) 5 3/8
CFM @ 0.000-In. SP 146
CFM @ 0.100-In. SP 140
CFM @ 0.200-In. SP 126
CFM @ 0.300-In. SP 124
CFM @ 0.400-In. SP 120
CFM @ 0.500-In. SP 110
--------------------------------------
PSC Blower,115 Volt 148 CFM
Grainger Item # 1TDR6
Price (ea.) $81.05
nlet Dia. (In.) 3 3/4
Outlet Height (In.) 2 5/8
Outlet Width (In.) 2 15/16
Overall Height (In.) 7 5/8
Overall Width (In.) 6
Overall Depth (In.) 7 1/8
CFM @ 0.000-In. SP 148
CFM @ 0.100-In. SP 144
CFM @ 0.200-In. SP 136
CFM @ 0.300-In. SP 134
CFM @ 0.400-In. SP 130
CFM @ 0.500-In. SP 124
CFM @ 0.700-In. SP 114
CFM @ 0.800-In. SP 106
CFM @ 0.900-In. SP 95
CFM @ 1.000-In. SP 86
CFM @ 1.200-In. SP 44

I've chosen the last model rated at 148 cfm. Why not pay $10 more and get the 273 model? Well, I figured in these factors. I will be using cfls and leds and all of my baffles will be located away from the growing chambers seperated by glass. So even though the calculations say that 135 is what I need, I am willling to bet that I could probably get by at or around 100 cfm because of low temps and smaller areas where the plants are. If I have to run the fan full speed, the noise may be more of a factor. Also, this fan has a greater range from 44 cfm all the way to 148.

[docmojoman]

Went with the 273 cfm joint! Here's a pic of my progress:

[mike827]

looks solid bro!

[genocide.monkey]

i was a little iffy at first but after seeing actual pictures, its looking real good, and i like your whole light trap/ventilation design. it looks really good so far. cant wait to see it full of greenery.

[docmojoman]

Did a trial run on my 2g11 lights! Nice! - still waiting (Monday) for my t5s and ballast!

[docmojoman]

Originally Posted by mike827

looks solid bro!

Thanks - good lookin' out!

Originally Posted by genocide.monkey

i was a little iffy at first but after seeing actual pictures, its looking real good, and i like your whole light trap/ventilation design. it looks really good so far. cant wait to see it full of greenery.

I too was iffy...but because my current set-up isn't quite steathy nor efficient (light-wise + ventilation-wise), I decided to bite the bullet and make it happen! I have to admit, I am not the best carpenter, but this suckka is coming out above my expectations!

[mike827]

I just read about somthing on ICMAG, called overpowering. Its where you wire the ballasts in serial to give the fluoro tube extra voltage. supposedly it dosnt harm the tube, but puts out 75% more light! I havent seen it done on PL fluoros however, but given they're already exceptional light output, i would think its worth looking into!

[docmojoman]

Originally Posted by mike827

...puts out 75% more light! I havent seen it done on PL fluoros however, but given they're already exceptional light output, i would think its worth looking into!

Dayumm! That would be sum wyld sh*t in my lil' box!

[docmojoman]

Getting close! I am expecting my t5 components on Monday - can't wait!

When I get the t5s I can finish my wiring of the mech room and then I can do a full test!

I have the 2g11's in place and the leds - I also have the exhaust fan wired and hung. Upon preliminary testing, it should run quieter than my existing box which uses twin tandem 120cfm computer fans!

I cannot truly test the fan until I seal all the air leaks in my box - I will be using silicone weather sealant in all the seams and will use foam weather stripping for the doors.

Here is some pics of my status:

[grassdude]

looks pretty sophisticated, i want one

[docmojoman]

Got my t5s yesterday, but I've been suffering from build overload! I'm just a bit overwhelmed with the little adjustments that I've had to make such as one of my glass panels is just an 1/8th of an inch off. I aim to get this suckka at least to the testing phase by Friday. I am having MAJOR problems with my existing box and heat.

[docmojoman]

Looks like I've got a bunch of light leaks to seal up, a shelving system to complete and a couple of doors to hang - but THAT'S IT!

Let me tell you something - so far this mutha RUNS cool! I may not have to run my fan continuously. This means that it opens up the possibility of doing some experimentation with CO2 in the future!

I am psyched! In order to get an idea of how good my lighting might be, I took a reading of my current lights using one of those cheesy 3-in-1 soil ph, wet or dry, light meter gadgets. My current hood has uneven lighting so I took my benchmark reading from its brightest area and compared it to my new box. Results showed a slightly higher level, which is cool with me because I am happy with my current level of light! But what DID impress me was that throughout the entire space the levels were dead even!