Designing a Custom Room For Best Results

[Sting-ray]

OK, I have read extensive articles, FAQs and the like here, and will say this; It is perhaps the greatest single source of reference I have ever seen on this subject. Simply a work of genius, and I plan on becomming a member very shortly as soon as I remove myself from this current financial crisis I am enduring. (30 days or so)

This post I have thought long and hard before asking opinions on, and I truly value the judgements of the professionals, expertise, and documentation here.

FACTS
1. I have a 3.5 by 8 foot secret chamber (inside and among walls) with about a 4-4.5 foot max plant height before bending of crowns becomes a necessity.
2. I am planning 3.5 x 6 feet of it as flowering area, with a separate smaller secret chamber (I am quite the engineer in hiding things as part of existing structure, more later) with the rest as movement and working area.
3. I am now soil growing to test the environment of the flower area.
4. I have a 250W Halide right now using only about half of the designated area. I can maintain 80-85 temps in 24 hr light with 35-60% humidty with fans running.
5. This is a test run and not a final design of sorts, which I am working on right now
6. The plants after a slow start are looking pristine.

Design Facts, Considerations and Plans/Ideas
1. I have decided on aero/hydro setup.
2. I want something that can be picked up and moved down stairs and reset up through a 18X36" door in the secret flower house.
3. I want to maximize the floor space.
4. The 250W Halide now, will be moved to the clone/veg room for a 4 week preiod.
5. Ventilation, cooling, odor control, heat issues can and will be easily incorporated into the design.
6. Cash reserve at this point is near zero, but by the time by current room is free, $500-1000 will be available no problem, and will be a very solid investment, and should be plenty.
7. I would like to use aero deisgn to maximize my grow height in flower house, since say an underneath res for ebb & flow would cost me 6-12", a sacrfice I'd rather not make if possible.

Now the questions and expertise request, before I fill in my bill of materials shopping list.
1. I would like to grow in 3 stages A) 4 week veg B)two 4 week flower times rotated to produce continual harvests each month. Is this realistic?
2. A 1000 HPS can be had for $250 online a 400 HPS for $160, and a 600 HPS for about the same as a 1000 HPS. with my rectangular space 3.5 x 6, requiring 900 W according to the SQ Ft Formula of 50W/sq ft. Which is the best way to go? 2 X 400, 2 X 600, 1 X 1000?
3. I desire a fully automatic, sensor controlled, highly preditable environment, at FLOOR LEVEL, which makes ebb&flow from bottom up less desireable, without considering yield. What is the best setup to achieve this? Aero tubing/hydro ebb&flow
4. I need portability from one "house" to the next, as it would be easier than exhanging medium pots from one system to the next (both grow mediums would be designed exactly the same). Appreciate feedback on this. Carry tubes down, or ebb/flow table. or move plants 1 at a time etc.
5. I need a predesigned nutrient solution, and a suggestion on the amount to be included in the design, and whether it would create a gravity problem with it located in the corner of the unused 2 feets, say in 5 gallon stacked buckets, or a 30 gallon drum etc (55 gal may push the space limits, but could be done)
6. Is rotating in flowering a practical idea, since that takes 6-8 weeks, and veg need only take 4 weeks from clones.
7. What are the pros/cons between the 2 types of systems hrdo/aero, in terms of yield, speed, quality, and ease of maintenance, operating costs etc.
8. The 3.5 ft width, is that best done used by running tubing from side to side for 8 rows (9" apart for 32 plants) or lengthwise for 4 rows with about 14" between plants for crawl in the middle (also 32 plants)
9. What is best lighting solution (refer to #2 in questions) a 1000 up higher or a a set of 2 for spread and overlap lighting effect. Movers could be considered, but the heat pipes challenge that, though I am sure, with the level of planning and thought I have incorporated to date this would be overcome)
10. How is this for a room, http://www.overgrow.com/article/12 is this the best way, or is there an easier, or more effective way in which to achieve the best results?


Now for things to consider when making replies:
1. The height of the room is just under 6 feet and in a basement where the temp does not exceed 60 even in 90 degree heat (50-60 in winter, remember the heat pipes).
2. There are radiator feed building heating pipes at ceiling level, which aids actually the overall environment, as I have seen them produce humdity and winter heat.
3. Ballasts can be easily made external.
4. Intake fans for night time can easily drop temps to 60-70 no matter what the outdoor season.
5. The room is made of drywall (doubled meaning 1 on each side of the studs) on ALL sides so the inside created environment is independant of outside.
6. I have incorporated a window to the outside as part of the design which can easily be concealed as a dryer exhaust.

I would like to add, when the plans and system is completely designed, I will add pics and documentation, as this is the best way for future ideas and other users to learn from others. I've got a knack for hiding things in older structured buildings, that is quite innovative, and I'd love to share to give back what I have gained from this extrordinary site. Thanks to everyone that contributes.

Progress and updates will be as they happen as well, provided I can secure a good digital camera between now and then.

[hippie john]

im a bit wasted at the moment, but will get to these, seeing as i have similar plans for the future ....

if you've got any good 3d design software itd be great to show your design plans... and if not, pm me all your room dimensions, and id be glad to make ya a model, and i know theres afew more people around here that do 3d modeling too...

good luck with the grow

[Hobbes]

amen to that.... i like the specs and i like your planing.... i dont think youll be needing a 1000 watt as apposed to a 400 watt which you could save a LOT on by checking John's cheep grow suplies links and going to econolight..... but i do wanna see pics pics is what we respond to.... ha so start snapen em

[THUG]

4.5 max plant hight? how tall is the room?

if ur only gona use 3.5x6 then id go with a 600
if u waanna use all 3.5x8 then id go with 2x400 or even 2x600

aircooled hoods or cool tubes will max ur groth hight.

nft trays will also help with hight and if u empty the water out they are dead easy to carry around. dont go bigger than the 4foot 1 tho.

[DirtGrower]

sounds like good workable space.

don't know much about hydro, but as far as the lights go... a 1000w on a mover would be the cheapest to operate. 2 600's would cover that pretty good too. with the cool ambient temp don't think heat will be a prob so I wouldn't even consider the 400's.

as for height... learn LST to get the most outta the floor space. short & bushy = good & buddy

Have Fun, Dirt