Small stealth setup, looking for advice on components

[mattyblaze]

Well I have been thinking about building a small stealth setup, but I recently stumbled upon this and it caught my eye.
http://www.buy-the-homebox.com/shop/...omebox_xs.html

I was thinking it could go fairly unnoticed in the corner of a closet, or if need be it could even be put in a custom built cabinet with a small lock that would also be discreet in my opinion.


Next is filtration. I am thinking on using this
http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=CF0062

For lights I am torn between a 250w hps or 200w cfl. I am torn between the two because the hps is cheaper, but the cfl would probably be much cooler.

I am debating on using these two fans
http://www.homeharvest.com/climateco...xhaustfans.htm. Either the 95cfm or 180cfm
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100396559
I would really like to use the home depot special or the 95cfm model as they are the cheapest, but I am unsure exactly how much ventilation I will actually need.

As far as I can tell that should be all of the supplies I need to get started. I am trying to do this on a limited budget, if price was not object things would be different. My main concerns are ventilation and heat. Another large concern in the back of my mind would be the hps getting too hot and starting a fire, but Im not sure how much of a concern this should be as long as the ventilation is enough. I would be growing 4 plants probably in a sog setup. Thanks in advance

[Don Piano]

You could build a box that is sturdier, way cheaper (for those of you who have read my other posts, this is how I usually begin them huh?) Probably $40 or less.

Use the HPS but would go for a 400watt light (the yield will benefit greatly from it. 600watts would be Ideal, but 400watts you can get a switchable ballast( can use MH or HPS by flipping a switch) HPS bulb, reflector, combo kit for $200 shipped from Discount-hydro.com. Probably cost the same as the 250watt you were looking at where ever else.

The switchable ballast for single cab grow is a great investment. You can use MH for the veg time, and use HPS for the flowering cycle.

Good choice on the filter.

You will need a big fan, and it will be worth it. Check out plantlightinghydroponics.com they have valuline (vortex knockoffs) inline duct fans, and they are cheaper than the blower fan you were looking at and put out more cfm (a 6inch fan with 435cfm, for 69.99) they handle the static pressure of a carbon filter and ducting alot better than the homedepot special you were lookin at.

It can be done on a budget, But don't sacrifice your grow, you will end up spending more in the long run if you get equipment that does not perform to your expectations.

As for a fire, many people do this and very few fuck up enough to do that. Just use common sense (the bulb glass temp can reach 700+degrees). A common thing to solve bulb heat is the glass covered, air cooled reflector.

And I am sure you mean ScrOG. SOG would need a mom chamber with room to veg clones and a seperate flowering chamber.

Hope this helps

[RobsGreen]

Hey, here's my 2 cents. Forget that grow tent, get wood, that would raise more eyebrows then a wooded cabinet. Also 2 flimsy, it would be a lot of trouble and both are the same cost.

Filter looks good.

250w HPS in a cooled reflector or cool tube. I've run a 250w CFL, single bulb and a 250w HPS in a cooled reflector and the HPS was cooler. The CFL was in the open though I'm sure in a reflect it would be cooler but then you may as well go HPS more powerful light.

The home depot fan is garbage, bought the same kind of thing for my first fan and its completely useless, never will work with a filter, won't even work without one. The other fan looks good, you would want the 180cfm at least, maybe the next one up. I don't know how well these work never personally used one, I believe there ok though. I always recommend a vortex style, thats my 2nd fan, a 4" one, 100 times the power of that homedepot one and rated the same, its all design and what there made for. The vortex draws lots of air which you want. You don't have to worry about a fire as long as the wiring is clean and plugs are above the plants.

Best of luck!

[Don Piano]

We seriously must have been typing responses at the same time, but I must be faster on the keys. We pretty much mirriored each other Rob.

[mattyblaze]

The main reason I was thinking of the tent is to prevent light leaks. Ive seen many custom "stealth" grow boxes on this site, but many of them still manage to leak light from somewhere or another. In my situation, I can have zero light escaping. Perhaps if I got a steel locking cabinet, and built a wood box inside of it as light proof as possible, then light proof the metal cabinet as well. I would have to route the intake and exhaust through 2 walls, but that wouldnt be too big of a deal I soppose. The more I think about it a large storage cabinet would probably be more discreet than anything.

That 6" chinese inline fan looks great, I didnt know I could find something for that price. It deffinitely seems like the way to go.

I also like the electronic switchable ballast. With the a cool hood it seems like there should be no issues at all with heat. Does this unit come with bulbs or do you have to provide those on your own?

One more question though. Using the inline fan, assuming that is pulling the hot air off of the hood, how would one go about passing air through the filter as well? Thanks again for all your help

[Don Piano]

If air cooling your hood, use the 6'' inline fan from HD to do that. The kit from Discount Hydro does include the HPS bulb, but youd have to get a MH to go with it for veg (assuming you looked at the valuline 400watt switchable).
Use the big fan to vent the room air on a thermostat (cheap at HD)

As for light leaks; Just use sealant around all edges, and for the door use weather stripping and locks. I don't think light leaks are an issue with the good growers here. when on the 12/12 light cycle, you need absolute darkness, and if you see light getting out with the light on, light is definately getting in during the dark period. It can be done. Just use a level and a square, and make sure your cutting skills are sharp (no pun intended) and even if cutting straight is a problem, you can fix gaps with sealant.

[RobsGreen]

lol, yeah I'm going to have to sharpen up my typing skills, missed it by minutes... Like they say, "great minds think alike".

I was going to mention using a 400w but thought nah, he's on a budget but yeah it certainly would be better, you'll want one later, I did, now I want 2 of them.

Yeah light proofing can be difficult, I spent many many hours getting it just right and I think that can cause a hermi pretty quick if it isn't. The hardest is around brackets and the crack in the middle. I only mentioned using wood because it doesn't look suspicious. If you don't want to build one you can get some perfect size ones at walmart for $100 what you were going to spend on the tent. But yeah I guess all the light proofing materials puts it well over and it is smaller.

You want to pull the air through the filter and blow it out through the reflector cooling the bulb. Thats how I have it and it works great, tons of air blowing across that bulb. The bulb sits no farther then 1.5" from the glass and its only warm. Lots of radiated heat from the MH bulb though. If you go with that big of a fan you probably need a bigger carbon filter, the air would move to quickly through it and not get cleaned, at least thats how I understand it.

[mattyblaze]

I hadnt considered the possibility of pulling through the filter, then pushing that air through the light. Its a good idea, would you happen to have a picture or drawing of this? As for the light, I would want the lumenaire hood correct? Its hard for me to tell from the pictures, but it is that one which seems to have an inlet and exhaust port. I would really like to use that filter, but if the fan is too much for it and it is inneffective maybe I could get away with a 4" fan, or a smaller light? As far as the container, I was thinking about building a second door within the container and then lightproof both. It would be a little more work, but then I could paint the inside of the cabinet black which would also probably really help with canceling out the light.

[Don Piano]

If you got the 4"vortex knockoff chinese unit, it would be fine for your filter, fine CFM wise, and yes the Air Cooled hood. Add a Passive Intake to the bottom of the back of the cab.

[mattyblaze]

Ok that filter/light cooler setup looks great, i think thats what im going to use. Looking on the discounthydro site, im leaning twoards the digitial ballast over the valuline. With the lumrnaire relector, the 400w digital only costs $10 more than the valuline. From the description, more light, no noise, less heat, I cant really seem to find anything wrong with it. Does anyone think this would be a poor choice? I found a cheap armoire on ebay which I will hopefully be picking up this weekend, and from there I can begin the build process

[Don Piano]

Many people will say to stay away from the digital ballasts. I actually have the valuline 400 and it does not hum (I can't even hear mine) as loud as ballasts I have heard before, plus they don't get as hot either. I have been really happy with it's overall performance. This one truly is performance at a low price.

[mattyblaze]

Why would you suggest the valuline over the lumatek? For 10 dollars more it seems like you are getting alot more technology, and if it actually has less consumption then I would think its deffinitely worth it. I did a bit of research and saw that the digital ballasts can emit radio frequencies which can interfere with other common frequences. On lumateks website I found this
R.F emissions - Lumatek ballasts are now internally RF shielded and can be used with standard System Cord sets as available in each country worldwide. Our ballasts produce the least amount of EMI (electro- magnetic interference) of any electronic ballast and conform to all international Electro-magnetic emission standards. This applies to all blue and purple models of the Lumatek

Please let me know, I dont have any issues with the valuline as im sure its proven, but I am mainly interested in the reduced electrical consuumption and claimed higher lumen output

[Don Piano]

Sounds good, do it up. Not arguing any of those good points. I have heard of the RF problems too.