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Couple of things.
Your lights need to be within 3 inches. Thats CFL's proper penetration length, they wont burn. Burning is caused from uptakes in the soil in your case. The distance the lights are at now will cause major stretching, which i already see starting to happen. What type of soil are you using? Looks muddy. Also next time you transplant, make sure the soil you go with has perlite, yours has none. Did your soil have nutes already in it? It is recommended you have a fan from day 1 to create strong roots and stems. Your stems are very thin. You wont be topping for some time. You need to create nodes and side shutes first. Last plant looks good, but it MAY have a slight pH twist going on. Have you tested the pH yet? How often are you watering, and with what type of water?
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![]() Last edited by Anony : 04-30-2008 at 07:34 PM. |
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What do you mean by "uptakes in the soil"? Yeah, this soil was unfortunately all I could get for the moment, I'll be getting better stuff soon. This was junky generic stuff with no perlite in it. No pre-existing nutes that I know of. I'm also gonna try to get a small fan for the room ASAP. I don't have any way to measure pH, what would you suggest? Can I get a cheap meter from a local store? or are those kind of things harder to get? I water the plants every 3 days, I try to watch the leaves and dirt to tell when it needs more water. It's just tap water, that I let sit out in a bucket. "You need to create nodes and side shutes first." You mean by letting it grow longer and getting it more light, before I do anything? Last edited by OkinKun : 04-30-2008 at 07:53 PM. |
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Well you can always wait to lower them until you get a fan if you think itl help.
Or just make sure they are just above 3 inches for now. Burning at that distance would be hard unless your temps are really high. Do you have a temp humidity gauge? How far away are they in those pics? I meant the plant can be burned on its edges by uptaking nutes in the soil. Or if the pH is off, it can get nute lockout and not be able to uptake what it needs. You can get a liquid or electric pH tester at any grow shop ie; worms way, everyday garden, or northern lights and other garden shops. Yes, you dont want to top until youve got some good side growth going on. Which looks like at least a few more weeks away for you. Youve got plenty light for now. So you have a mix of K temp bulbs right?
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And no humidity gauge either... I'm super poor right now, which is part of the reason why I want to grow my own in the first place, so we aren't spending so much on pot anymore. I guess I'll go see if a local flower shop... or all purpose hardware store has a pH meter, asap as well as the fan. But it may have to wait till the weekend, paycheck issues. These plants are only a few weeks old, so I didn't really expect to top them yet, I was just looking for an estimate. Thank you for verifying that. And exactly, I mixed K temps... It was cheaper than buying ALL daylights, and I figured it would give the plants a good wide spectrum range. |
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hmm... Do you think maybe having the lights too far away, was what was causing the lower leaves to discolor? (Although that probably wasn't what was causing the brown spots, right?)
So many things I need to fix... @_@ BTW, no it doesn't get TOO hot in there, only a little warm. And the picture of my healthiest plant, looks more yellow, than the plant actually is in reality... I think my that's my camera's fault. Last edited by OkinKun : 04-30-2008 at 08:09 PM. |
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Sounds good, liquid pH test kits are cheaper than electric.
Usually lighting will not cause lower leaves to discolor. That symptom is due to uptake from the soil. (which is why its the lower leaves and not the upper leaves. If it was the top leaves, then you might consider the lights) Usually too much or too little nitrogen. You would need to know more about your soil to know more. I would make sure you transplant to better soil soon. pH testing your tap water, and your soil runoff will help you make a better diagnosis as well.
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I shouldn't have too much of a problem, transplanting them this early in their lives, should I? I mean, I'll be as careful as I can... but they're stems are just so weak right now, it worries me quite a bit. Is it better to let their soil get dry before transplanting, or do it after it's been wet? Cause I noticed that the soil shrinks a little as it dries, which might make it easier to remove it from the pots. I just don't want to stress the plants anymore than I already have. |
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Nah transplanting isnt hard at all imo, takes some practice to get comfortable with it, but if you check youtube, you can see how other people do it, sometimes a visual aid is more helpful than reading.
I prefer dry soil compacted before transplanting, then once they are in their new pots, you give it a nice watering. Thats when i usually add superthrive as well to help the cause. Thanks Dcoully.
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Anony, thank you so much for your knowledge! I'll keep this updated... I'll be able to get the new soil and other supplies, likely this weekend. Thanks a mil! |
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Thanks for the +rep Anony! I'm happy to show my setup... I got the ideas for the lights and such, from these forums. The cords are hanging from metal closet shelves, which I mounted near the ceiling, and that allows me to easily adjust the height/position of the lights. Although I admit, I am a little nervous about putting these pictures online... I just hope JPGs can't be traced or anything... =/ Never know what the authorities/feds can do these days... @_@ Last edited by OkinKun : 04-30-2008 at 09:26 PM. |
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