Cheap Scrog Method

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by andersgraaf, Oct 26, 2007.

  1. This is a tried and tested, cheap as chips scrogging box that hasn't failed me yet.
    It also incorporates a simple hydroponics system.
    Perfect for first time growers, growers on a budget and those who have little or no space to grow.
    All of the materials are very cheap can be found in most decent hardware stores.

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    Things you'll need:

    -Enough decent wood to build a very simple box to your space requirements.
    -Heatproof Paint
    -Reflective foil
    -Plastic mesh (not too narrow)
    -1 x 4 way power block (small)
    -1 x 2 way power block (small)
    -2 x mains plug timers (24 hr)
    -2 x Flourescent lighting tubes (length as required)
    -Flourescent light fitting for 2 tubes + Power supply(ies) and reflector
    -4 x 12 volt power supplies
    -8 x wire connectors
    -4 x large 12v computer fans
    -Various guttering (see method)
    -Plant pots with drainage holes
    -Thermometer and Humidity dial

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    First of all, you'll need to build this very simple box using wood and pannel pins, preferably with no glue. I haven't included dimensions in the diagrams as these can be built to your own space requirements.


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    The box is in 3 parts which fit together like this:


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    As you can see, the box is split round lower than the middle, and the front comes right off.
    Screw or pin planks of wood round the inside rim of the LOWER part so that the top part fits on snugly. When doing the sides of this, make sure you don't bring it all the way to the front of the box.


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    When making the removable front "lid," have a layer of wood on the inside of it with a smaller diameter, so the front part can fit snugly into the closed box.


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    To ensure further security of the front part, attach hook latches to the top and sides of the box, the kind that click in place. alternatively you could use any latch or catch that would be suitable.


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    Roughly halfway up the top part of the box, use a hole drilling bit to drill 2 holes on each side, that are the same diameter as the ducts of the computer fans. Also drill 1 - 2 small holes on one side for the lighting wires.


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    Next, paint all of the inside parts of the box with heatproof paint, and line with a layer of reflective foil. This includes the inside part of the front "lid."


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    Construct a simple wooden frame that slides inside the box and rests on the inner pieces of wood. remember to make it a few inches shallower than the box so that the front can still fit on. Cut a rectangle of plastic mesh the same size as the frame, and staple it to one side.


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    Now for the electronics ! The basic circuit I'm using is shown below.
    From one outlet, I have the 24hr timer, going to a 2 - way power block, with the flourescent tube fitting(s) plugged in.
    From the other, I have the other 24hr timer, going to a 4 - way power block. in each plug is a 12 volt power supply.
    To power the fans, remove the tips of the 12v power supplies and strip a centimeter or so of the wire covers. Do the same with the computer fans, then for 2 of the fans, connect RED to POSITIVE, and BLACK to NEGATIVE using wire connectors like the ones shown. for the other 2, connect RED to NEGATIVE
    and BLACK to POSITIVE. If the polarities of the power supplies are unclear, make sure 2 of the fans are
    rotating clockwise, and the other 2 anti - clockwise. (check this with all the fans the same way up !)
    The purpose of the timers is so you can change the light/fan cycles to suit the different stages of growing a plant. Find out more with the links at the bottom.


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    * You could even use individual wire connectors.


    Screw the fans over the holes you drilled for them, making sure that those of the same polarity are on the
    same side. This ensures unidirectional airflow and efficient ventilation.
    Use rubber cement if needed to seal the rims of the fan ducts onto the box.


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    To keep things tidy, I like to screw the power blocks and any external power supplies etc. to the back of
    the box. wires can also be shortened and stapled to the outside of the box. Make sure your screws aren't
    going right through into the inside !


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    Now to attach the lights and fittings. Depending on the lights and fittings you have, this will be done
    differently. I was lucky enough to find a reflector fitting with ceiling brackets, and 2 independently
    powered tube fittings that fitted my box perfectly. If you can't find one of these, attach your reflector
    to the ceiling of the box with a little space in between for heat to dissipate, and fasion a block of
    heatproof painted wood to fix the light fitting onto.
    you'll need to cut the wires leading to the tubes, leaving some length on the fitting side. feed the wire(s)
    through the small holes from the inside of the box to the outside. reconnect the wires and tidy it all up.


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    * I'm assuming you're not an idiot and that you're aware of the safety measures involved in this.
    Be completely sure your electronics are safe before testing, and make sure no wires etc. are exposed.
    Any exposed wire can be wrapped in electrical tape.
    Coiled up power cables can generate alot of heat so avoid this.


    I've used this type of very basic hydroponics aparatus for years and it's always worked a treat.
    As you can see in the diagram, all you need is some type of reservoir that's deep enough to house
    the rooting system of your plants, and can also have liquids easily added at one end and drained at the
    other. I've used my hardware store's own brand of guttering that's literally as easy to assemble as lego.
    In the diagram, there's 2 T junctions joined with a connector, and capped at each end.
    At one end, I've attached an upward facing funnel with a cap. this must rise above the water level.
    At the other, a valve that allows me to drain all the water from the device.


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    * Anything you can build with the same theory, should, in theory, work. You could even buy a home
    hydroponics kit, or grow using more traditional methods. More info can be found at the bottom.
    If building your own hydroponics system, be sure to clean and rinse all the parts thoroughly, during
    construction, and also between changing plants.
    Make sure the method you choose doesn't overly exceed the height of the bottom part of the box.


    Use plant pots with alot of very small drainage holes. The holes have to be small enough to house a
    50/50 mixture of perlite and vermiculite (available at garden centers) without it escaping. It also
    helps if the pots can be housed nice and securely in the reservoir.


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    Now attach your growing apparatus to the bottom of the box. I've used the wall brackets included in that specific range of guttering.


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    The inside of the finished article should look something like this:


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    If you need to raise the height of your mesh screen (you'll find out why in a bit), pieces of wood can
    be attached with pins as shown, to the sides and back of the frame.
    Once you find the right height, it has to be fixed into place, preferably temporarily, to the bottom part of the box. You can
    use more of the hook latches to do this.
    Now affix a thermometer and a humidity dial to the inside of the box (top part.)


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    Voila ! A quick, affordable scrogging solution.


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    The Theory:
    The basic theory of scrogging (Screen of Green) is to force the plant to sprout more branches than usual from an early age,
    and train these soft young branches around the wire screen so they all grow horizontally.
    (you might have to change the height of your screen to accomodate this.)
    Then, when you start the flowering stage, you have a lush bed from which your buds can grow upward, utilising
    horizontal aswel as vertical growing space.


    The basic theory of hydroponics is growing your plant in mediums other than soil. I use a 50/50 mixture
    of perlite and vermiculite in my pots, with the water and nutrients flowing freely through the roots
    and mixture. I also use room temperature, sterilised water (not cold, as this can shock the roots), and
    specialised organic liquid fertilisers for hydroponics. Be sure to drain and replace your water and
    nutrients regularly.


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    I am by no means an expert, so I've included some useful links below:

    A good SCROG explanation:
    http://www.420source.com/post/9


    A Detailed SCROG method:
    http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu/cannabis540.html


    ALOT of questions answered here:
    http://www.drugs-forum.co.uk/growfaq/GrowFAQ Basic Topics.htm


    Cannabis cultivation Wikipedia:
    http://www.hydroleaf.com/hydroponics/hydrosystemsreviewpage.jsp


    Alternative Cannabis Cultivation Wikipedia:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternative_Cannabis_cultivation


    Hydroponics explained:
    http://www.hydroleaf.com/hydroponics/hydrosystemsreviewpage.jsp



    Have I suggested anything absurd? Please let me know !
     

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