Lets Build a Bubble Bucket *Step by Step*

try a little bar soap on the threads...(little)

Rumples, Thanks for the killer post! I am totally new to hydro, I built my first bucket and I am having good success with growth so far. I am 10 days into transplanting some bag seed sprouted in paper towels and opened up in soil(spagnum peat). My first one I was lucky enough to have a dark bucket. I covered it with the tape anyway to make sure no light got in. I am using a pretty standard nutrient package with some rooting solution for this transition phase from dirt to hydro. So far it looks killer! I bought extra lids so that I could have multi function buckets. I cut 12 2" holes and put starts in 2" net pots with hyroton. I lost a few but they didnt look good to begin with anyway. But the ones that are taking off are in hyper drive! However, I really want to use compact flourescents. Not only for the reduced electricity usage but also for being able to get the light much closer to the plants. I have a couple of questions and would also like to hear your opinion on the lighting subject. I feel that in a perfect world a 400 watt hid would work great, but with a stealth grow I think I can produce the same light with fewer watts? Possibly a 105 watt with some 27 watt fillers around the sides or tubes for that matter. Also I would like to ask about the distance from the bottom of the pot to the top of the water. Right now I have it very close(1") in order to get the roots going good from the soil transplant. Should this be increased to say 3" in order to prevent possible root rot? Again thanks for the post...I am bubble head, well kinda. PEACE

[Rumpleforeskin]

I keep mine at around 1" below the net pots. New clones I keep it touching the bottom until I get roots coming out that can touch 1" below the pot.

This is my rule for lights: 100W per plant if you want to see maximum potential yeild and quility. Less light will give you less yeild and could have effects on quality. It's ok to use less light, but you have to be willing to except less from your grow.

florescent light are good for cloning, thats about it.

I'm sure opinions will vary on the subject of lights. Don't only accept one answer from one person here. Ask around and come up with your own theory, or an answer that seems to make the most sense to you.

Good luck, R.

Thanks for the reply there rumples. Yea I'm really diggin the bucket deal. Actually this is my first hydro(and indoor) ever, and this set up has just been a breeze to say the least(thanks to all your excellent pictures). I may invest in a MH for the real good Veg growth but I am pretty confident (with everything that I have read about it) that the amount of flo's should do for just about everything. (I hope). Right now I am being pretty conservative with the nutes but I look forward to turnin it up a bit, as it were. My question is this I guess, Is there a cheap way to test PPM? Can you suggest a good one and should I be feeding bloom,bud, flower booster now? (5 days in) I am currently feeding veg booster with rooting solution. PH steady and nute change coming soon. Have a great day and enjoy !

[Rumpleforeskin]

I can't tell you what and when to feed your grow because of the different methods and food types. I have an EC/TDS meter but I dont use the information from it to determine when or how much to feed. I only use it as a reference because I change out my nutrients every ten days or so. I'm using the Lucas Formula to feed and it does not rely on EC readings if used in simple mode.
I use my EC meter to test my RO water mainly.
Your method of feeding could rely heavy on EC/TDS readings. If it does then buy a quality EC meter. The cheap ones never work or last.

PH is a whole nother story. I have to check and adjust PH all the time. Spend some money on a good PH meter.

Yep sorry about the brain fart there. After thinking about it I remembered about you talking about the lucas method in another post. I've read most of your postings and I really appreciate someone who puts effort into helping others understand a somewhat(very)difficult process. I look forward to seeing the end results of course, but I really want to nail this pretty close because I like to tweek things as I go...after I become familiar with them. I read about the LST method last night and I am totally geeked about that! One question concerning that. I intend on taking the very small eye screws and placing them into the lid flaps of my buckets. What keeps the main stalk from drooping on top of the bucket or should a healthy plant always hold itself off of the top? And in regards to this, as long as I have plenty of tie down spots on the outside of the lid, I am assuming that with proper training the plant will be somewhat like a spring sitting on top of the bucket? You know the more I write the more questions I come up with...It was whole lot easier sinkin some clones outside but I am far too old for that now ha ha ha.

[Rumpleforeskin]

Electrical conductivity (EC) is measured in microsiemens per centimeter or µS and is used estimate the amount of total dissolved solids/salts (TDS), or the total amount of dissolved ions in the water. People try to convert this value to parts per million by multiplying the EC value by .5 thru .9. Most use .7 to get the estimated PPM from an EC value. I just use the EC value because it will be about the same from person to person. But alot of tables for feeding are in PPM so you have to convert your reading. Most meters will let you adjust the PPM value by .5 or.7.

So when reading your plant food mix value, make sure to note the conversion factor.

I am not a scientist so the above statement could be all wrong. This is just how I understand it.

Originally Posted by Rumpleforeskin

Electrical conductivity (EC) is measured in microsiemens per centimeter or µS and is used estimate the amount of total dissolved solids/salts (TDS), or the total amount of dissolved ions in the water. People try to convert this value to parts per million by multiplying the EC value by .5 thru .9. Most use .7 to get the estimated PPM from an EC value. I just use the EC value because it will be about the same from person to person. But alot of tables for feeding are in PPM so you have to convert your reading. Most meters will let you adjust the PPM value by .5 or.7.

So when reading your plant food mix value, make sure to note the conversion factor.

I am not a scientist so the above statement could be all wrong. This is just how I understand it.

I greatly appreciate it. Thats an adequate explaination on the subject and I am sure if not correct very, very close. Since writing you last I have priced meters and they are kinda pricy. But seems to be very necessary. Thanks very much.

[Mixedup86]

GREAT POST OK I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING YOU HAVE SAID BUT I SEE IN THE PICTUE 2ND FROM THE BOTTOM YOU HAVE SOME SORT OF TUBEING IN YOUR ROOTS. WHERE DOES THAT COEM FROM?

BECUZ RIGHT NOW I HAVE EVERTHING SETUP TO WHERE ITS BUBLING WITH THE PUMP BUT IT LOOK LIKE YOU HAVE SOME SORT OF TUBE GOING THRU YOUR ROOT SYSTEM IS THAT TRUE? DID I MISS SOMETHING?


SORRY BUT JUST ONE LAST QUESTION. AFTER I GERMANITE MY SEEDS DO I PLACE THEM DIRECTLY INTO THOSE HYDROTON ROCKS? OR COULD I PUT IT IN ROCKWOOL CUBE THEN PUT THAT IN THE NET WHICH IS SURROUNDED BY GROW ROCKS.

I'D LIKE TO KNOW BECUZ I DONT ANT TO MAKE A STUPID MISTAKE FOR MY FISRT ONE PLANT SYSTEM I WANNA MAKE IT GOOD.

Originally Posted by Rumpleforeskin

I have posted this step by step build on other forums in the past. I hope someone can find use for it here.
R.

I have had a few requests for the plans to my home made bubble-bucket.
So lets do the shopping first:

Shopping list for local hardware store (Homedepot/Lowes)
One five gallon bucket with lid.
One roll aluminum tape (not duct tape).
One 1/2" PVC Ball Valve (inside threaded on both ends).
Two 1/2" PVC Male Adaptor **Thread x Socket**
Two 1/2" PVC Elbow for Flexible Pipe.
One 1/2" Threaded PVC Plug.
One 1/2" Threaded Coupling.
Two 1/2" Threaded PVC Adapter to Flexible Pipe (some times called funny fittings).
Two 1/2" Grommets.
Four "O" Rings that fit the threads of the Male Adaptor.
One piece of 1/2" PVC Pipe (you need less then a foot per bucket).
Two 1/2" PVC Tees
2' Clear Flexible Tubing with 1/2" inside diameter

Shopping list for the local pet store:
8' of Silicone Airline Tubing
2 Airstones
2 Plastic check valves
1 Air Pump

Shopping list for a hydro store:
1 6" Net Pot
1 Bag of Hydroton Pebbles


Lets Start Building

We don't want light to pass through the bucket, so I use aluminum tape. Duct tape won't work. Light will pass through duct tape. Also its better to tape before drilling holes.
Start by taping outside of lid.



Completely tape the outside of the bucket. Do the outside bottom as well.



We now need to cut a hole in the lid to fit your mesh basket. The hole has to be about 1/4" smaller then the top outside diameter of your basket. If you dont have any good hole cutting tools, you can use a razor (don't cut your fingers off). Drill/Cut your hole in the center of the lid.





Its important to know the height of your mesh basket so you can position the fill hole below the bottom of your basket. After measuring your basket height, place your lid on your bucket. Mark your fill hole location about an inch more then your basket height from the hole in your lid.



The 1/2" PVC Male Adaptor has an outside diameter of about an inch. This will be your drain, so it needs to be as close to the bottom of the bucket as possible. I measure up and mark it about 3/4" from the bottom of the bucket. If you drill to close to the bottom it will not install correct.



I like to have my drain and fill, inline with each other. You can put them anyplace that works with your grow. Use a small drill to make pilot holes through your bucket.



Now flip your bucket over. You should be able to see the locations of your pilot holes. Switch to a 3/4" drill bit. Anything that will make a 3/4" hole will work.



Drill out your drain and fill holes.



To make your fluid level Indicator. We have to drill two more 3/4" holes. Place the bottom hole at the same level as the drain. Drill the top hole 1.5" from the top. You can make the top hole higher if you want.



Lets drill two holes (#7 drill bit or one slightly smaller then your air line) below the top lip on opposite sides of the bucket for the air lines.



Now the fun part. Time to install all our fittings.



Place O-rings on all both 1/2" PVC Male Adaptors



Insert the male adaptors through the drain and fill holes from the inside of the bucket. It will be a tight fit.



Add O-rings to the threads that stick out of the bucket. Then screw on your vlave to the drain and 1/2" threaded coupling + plug to your fill.



Install your rubber gromits to the 3/4" holes you made for your level indicator. Note: If you can't find grommets, you can construct this using 1/2" PVC Male Adaptor, PVC Elbow for Flexible Pipe, and two O' rings.



I like to cut half the barbs off one side of my tubing elbows. The cut side will go into the clear tubing. This gives me another inch or so of indicator.



Install your two tubing elbows into your gromits. Careful not to push your gromits out of the holes you drilled. I spit on the barbs before installing them. Measure the distance between the two elbows.



Cut your clear tubing to the same distance between the two elbows.



Now install the tube to your elbows.



Cut a 7.5" piece of 1/2" PVC pipe



Attach the a PVC Tee to each end (no glue). Using a number 7 drill bit or a bit that is just slightly smaller then your silicone airline tubing, drill two holes in your pipe. Drill close to the base of the Tee.



Cut about 4' of silicone airline tubing. Run your silicone airline tubing through your Tee and into your pipe then out the hole you drilled. It helps to cut a point into the end of your silicone airline to thread through the small holes.



Attach your air stone and do the same thing to the other side.



This will hold your air stones in place without adding any metal parts.



Feed the airline through the bucket.



If you want your air line to be neet, your can drill small holes in the top rings of your bucket and attach zip-ties.



If you plan to have an air pump below your nutrient level, then you need to have check valves. You don't want to ruin your new pump by having water back-up into it.



Now test out our new Bubble-Bucket. Look for leaks. Don't over tighten against your O-rings. If your rings smash, back up a turn or two.



A few folks said they fear the sight indicators (light causing algae). I have used them the last four cycles, without any scum growth. They work so good, I don't know how I ever lived without them.



Only clean roots and water here. Not even a hint of pond scum.


They seem to help get the best end result.


Well thats it. Go grow some pakalolo
Peace, Rumpleforeskin.

[needhelpbad]

thank you mr.foreskin, i have a lot to learn from you!!!

What does it look like? Some of my sprouts I'm rooting in the bucket have slimy shit on their roots when I pull the baskets. Now I know I should leave them alone but for right now(Until I nail down a cool seed site). But, if I did have the dank in there brewin would it be a good idea to not mess with the basket? Or do you have a little wiggle room when it comes to messin with the roots?

[Rumpleforeskin]

Mixedup86, that is what happens when your root ball eats your air-stones. Even the pipe gets consumed. I cant remove the roots without bringing the hose, stones, and pipe up with it. Look at it real close and you can kinda see it all.




Use the rock wool with your seeds. When you have roots coming out of the cube, insert it into the baskets with the clay pebbles. Set your level so it touches the bottom of the basket for a week or two. Then drop it to an inch below the basket.

[HQAR]

what type of lighting should i have and what are other details about the lighting for the Bubble Bucket?

[oskillzzo]

this is a hell of a thread...got my first one made....3 more to go...i need to go buy some more buckets and tee's and all that

[oskillzzo]

ran into a question....how do you lst with this...how do you tie it down cause i use strnig and tape but wouldnt it rip the aluminum tape off when i peel it off after the grow?