Lucas Formula

[IMgreen]

my measuring cup starts at 50 l how do i measure 5 ml?

google ml conversion and I am sure you'll find something from ML to teaspoons
(its about 1 teaspoon)


screwdababylon! - aside from seedlings I feed them for the light not based on time or age

under cfl I kept ppm at about 850 and for hps up to 12-1300

no additives here either, just fnb

[screwdababylon!]

Originally Posted by IMgreen

google ml conversion and I am sure you'll find something from ML to teaspoons
(its about 1 teaspoon)


screwdababylon! - aside from seedlings I feed them for the light not based on time or age

under cfl I kept ppm at about 850 and for hps up to 12-1300

no additives here either, just fnb

i see
thanks

[mordgrow]

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1654.htm

just slowly bring the strength up, but I wouldnt even feed nutes untill you have 4 nodes (leaf sets)

[IMgreen]

yeah what mord said!

young ones still need to be treated like youngsters and that is a good rule of thumb, the four nodes til first feeding, thanks mordgrow

[screwdababylon!]

yeah but 300-400 ppm is close to water u can get in your house
it could be up to 250 ppm if u live in the ghetto)))
u always see the big difference between soil and hydro grow on the early stages
i thought thats becouse too long period of using clean water - so plant dont get shit it can use to grow properly

maybe thats wrong
just MO

[IMgreen]

250 ppm is well below the safe limit for potable water

our tap water is 250 and it aint horrible, but it is a bit hard (lots of calcium)

I believe plants grow faster in hydro because it's less effort for the to biold a bigger root system

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by screwdababylon!

yeah but 300-400 ppm is close to water u can get in your house
it could be up to 250 ppm if u live in the ghetto)))
u always see the big difference between soil and hydro grow on the early stages
i thought thats becouse too long period of using clean water - so plant dont get shit it can use to grow properly

maybe thats wrong
just MO

Originally Posted by IMgreen

250 ppm is well below the safe limit for potable water

our tap water is 250 and it aint horrible, but it is a bit hard (lots of calcium)

I believe plants grow faster in hydro because it's less effort for the to biold a bigger root system

I have a question for you Hydro guys which i asked in a thread where no hydro guys go.

Lets say you do hydro and use a 250PPM tap in your res. with the add back system and Lucas,(which i know some of you do).

For weeks you add back the needed water and nutes as your grow looks great.

If your plants don't use the 250PPM of excess calcium and crap,and you continue to add more and more,wont the solution be filled with minerals which the plants cant use in place of pure PPM nutes added to R/O?

And wouldn't theoretically using R/O(as Lucas has recommended)grow plants better than using tap with all the fill PPM which plants cant use?

[IMgreen]

I used distilled water for the addback for that exact reason

filled with tap, 30 gallons is a lot to buy, and let it run for about 2 weeks before I put plants in it

just got one of them mr clean auto dry carwash things to try instead of buying water

you are supposed to use RO if you use the addback, but I dont do well with rules...

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by IMgreen

I used distilled water for the addback for that exact reason

filled with tap, 30 gallons is a lot to buy, and let it run for about 2 weeks before I put plants in it

just got one of them mr clean auto dry carwash things to try instead of buying water

you are supposed to use RO if you use the addback, but I dont do well with rules...

Distilled is more PH stable and more expensive too,its guaranteed stable unlike some R/O you can find in those outlets with old filters and moldy parts.


I dont think the 2 week wait with tap does anything other than evap. the chlorine,i could be wrong but all the unusable minerals are still there but as you said there only in the orig. tap fill and not adding up throughout your grow.

Been wondering about this for awhile.

You would love an R/O system with your Hydro,Ive been real stupid by exchanging out the res every week even with the R/O.But my additional AN sups are extensive on top of the GH-Lucas and change each week,went all out my 1st time but i dont think i will do it again.

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by IMgreen

I used distilled water for the addback for that exact reason

filled with tap, 30 gallons is a lot to buy, and let it run for about 2 weeks before I put plants in it

just got one of them mr clean auto dry carwash things to try instead of buying water

you are supposed to use RO if you use the addback, but I dont do well with rules...

BTW those mr. clean filters are IIRC just a resin canister to di-ionize the water so it sheets off the cars paint,have you tried to PH or PPM it yet?

My 6 stage R/O has 2 of those for water polishing after the filtering process to make the 4 stages go to zero PPM,used mostly for aquariums(no final carbon filter used for the drinking system).

Ide bet if you hook up a $20.00 home depot inlinecarbon filter to that mr clean you would get some good water.

My monster 100 GPD 6 stage system is great and built solid and for #125.00 well worth it...one VERY quality unit and it comes with a gauge and all the line and fittings too.

[IMgreen]

$125 for RO aint bad at all, esp for 100 gpd

post a pic!

eventually I'll get one, but not yet

I believe gonejah checked the ppm on one of them mr clean thingy's and I think he said it was 20 ppm. (low enough for me)

I'll def check ppm and ph before I addback with it - just used up the last 2.5 gallon jug of distiled either yesterday or the day before

The two weeks I let it run was to give the beneficial bacteria a chance to start breeding in the lavarock, chlorine evaporation wouldn't take that long, would it?

[RobsGreen]

Great thread, like mordgrow said, don't feed them until they get 4 noods, I feed them right away with the Lucas formula at 450ppm @ .5 and fried them badly. The Lucas formula is great and so easy if you do as you should. He recommends using hard water micro instead of the normal flora micro if you waters PPM is high. There's cheap RO systems on ebay that work great, I'm about to order up another one, almost wore out the first one already. The new ones have a little pump on them for more pressure and longer life on the membrane because of it, that will be nice cause we all know how long that shit takes to make. lol My water is a horrible 367ppm @ .5 so an RO is a must. Here's a link, I know they work because everyone that drinks my water says its great, I can't say because I don't drink water. lol

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=006

Someone mentioned the ask Lucas thread, here's a link to it. It starts out great, gets a little boring but you can sure learn a lot.

http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by IMgreen

$125 for RO aint bad at all, esp for 100 gpd

post a pic!

eventually I'll get one, but not yet

I believe gonejah checked the ppm on one of them mr clean thingy's and I think he said it was 20 ppm. (low enough for me)

I'll def check ppm and ph before I addback with it - just used up the last 2.5 gallon jug of distiled either yesterday or the day before

The two weeks I let it run was to give the beneficial bacteria a chance to start breeding in the lavarock, chlorine evaporation wouldn't take that long, would it?

Chlorine only takes 24-48 hrs to evap.

What bacteria starter do you use during the 2 week start up?

Originally Posted by RobsGreen

Great thread, like mordgrow said, don't feed them until they get 4 noods, I feed them right away with the Lucas formula at 450ppm @ .5 and fried them badly. The Lucas formula is great and so easy if you do as you should. He recommends using hard water micro instead of the normal flora micro if you waters PPM is high. There's cheap RO systems on ebay that work great, I'm about to order up another one, almost wore out the first one already. The new ones have a little pump on them for more pressure and longer life on the membrane because of it, that will be nice cause we all know how long that shit takes to make. lol My water is a horrible 367ppm @ .5 so an RO is a must. Here's a link, I know they work because everyone that drinks my water says its great, I can't say because I don't drink water. lol

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=006

Someone mentioned the ask Lucas thread, here's a link to it. It starts out great, gets a little boring but you can sure learn a lot.

http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892

As i quickly read through your R/O system i see it is made for drinking,(dif. than aquariums and plants)i can tell because it has a final carbon scrubber filter for taste which is great if you plan on sharing the system between drinking and your res.

My system has two DI resin canisters for a zero PPM output(final polishing),most drinking R/O systems have some waste PPM,but taste better than the one i have.

I didnt see anything about that systems final PPM output but im sure it well within limits.

The GPD # is based on several factors,mostly incoming water pressure,my system is a 100GPD system rated at 80 psi and i have only 45 but i fill a 5 gal bucket in less than 2 hrs and thats more than i will ever need with some planning.

The pump,IMHO cant save water but will make water faster,all i see it doing is increasing pressure which even at 1000psi the membrane still only passes a percentage of the water and waste will not change(i dont believe their claims),show me how so i can understand.

The 3 gal storage tank will not be used by most and the company should save you some money if you choose not to get it,i use a $4 float in any sized bucket for a res. of your choice.

[mordgrow]

just FYI,

My well water is about 450PPM AND I use a water softener ( two things which I'd advise against) this is still fine in hydro.

if you have a little bit higher PH, you can either not do the add back (and just do the add water) or change your rez out every other week.

This is really good for your plants anyway, its not neccisary but its a good idea, especialy if you can get inthere and scrub the build ups out a bit, general maint. etc...

hope that helps with your delema.

I DO want an RO system for the future though. (mostly because my PH starts out at 8.2 or so and I dont like using so much PH down)

Originally Posted by RobsGreen

I can't say because I don't drink water. lol

Bro, do your kidneys a favor, drink water when your thirsty !

I'm betting your younger, this shit will catch up to you later on.

[shivaganesha]

Originally Posted by IMgreen

aside from seedlings I feed them for the light not based on time or age

under cfl I kept ppm at about 850 and for hps up to 12-1300

This is wrong... you should feed plants the concentrations of nutes to suit age. A bigger plant will just drink more, but the concentrations will still be the same.

Example... I'm flowering under a 600w light, the plant is currently on 1.6ec. I get in another light or replace the 6 with a 1000. The plant is still at the right age to receive 1.6ec, but is starting to drink more... do I up the ec, or do i simply feed the plant more? The answer is I feed the plant more water but with the same concentrations of nutes.