What would you all say is the ideal temperature range & humidity range for your grow room? Also, is the ideal pH range 6.5-6.8, or am I off a little on that? Thanks a ton in advance!
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Ideal Temp & Humidity for Growroom??
Started by
nt3grals
, Jan 06 2012 05:21 AM
#1
Posted 06 January 2012 - 05:21 AM
#2
Posted 06 January 2012 - 05:27 AM
Your ph is right. Most people say any where in the 70-80 is the ideal temp range in the 70s is obv better. Usually around 82 i start to see negative things happen to my plants. The humidity needs to be higher in veg 70-80% and low in flower around 30% so that theres not mold. I got by with low humidity in veg and flower.
#3
Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:48 AM
whoa, 70-80 is way to high, your plants need to move ethylene gas out of the leaves or growth will be impaired, When the humidity is above 60 the stomata on the leafs close because the humidity is higher outside the plant is higher than inside and the result is build up ethylene and slower growth. The exception is Clones and seedlings they love humidity all the way up to 90, doesn't matter, but as they get some leaves you need to drop the humidity down.
#4
Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:38 AM
for flowering keep your humidity at 50 if possible. your temp is best around 68-72. veg temp about the same with a higher humidity.
#5
Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:59 AM
50 is border line to much flower, and like i plainly said even veg hates anything over 60, 50-55 is great veg, You defiantly want flowering under 50
#6
Posted 06 January 2012 - 01:29 PM
#7
Posted 20 February 2012 - 03:54 PM
If possible get 2 or more meters, so you can compare the two. I have had wonky units give me bad readings.
Generally RH is not critical to MJ. It prefers 70-90 in veg and below 50 in flower. I have grown weed in 105 degrees in a poorly vented closet. I have grown in near perfect climate controlled rooms. Both grew good smoke.
Controlling RH can add to the potency and vigor of the plant. Some say for the cost and trouble to do this, you dont see a payoff.
If your goal is to produce the best weed possible, then yes. Control your RH. 80 in veg below 50 in flower. below 35 if you have dank thick buds and molding is a concern.
If your goal is to have smoke, then dont worry about it. For all your effort and money to control it, you might wind up getting 1% more potency, maybe a gram or two more weight.
I will say from personal growing experience, lowering the RH to 35 in the final weeks makes them more resinous. A trichome loses 80-90 less water than a plain leaf surface. The plant will make more glands when the air is dryer.
One of several steps I do for adding stick at the end....
3 weeks before harvest....flush the plants with plain water until runoff reads 100ppm or lower (soil). PH is unimportant for this, use tap water for economy.
Mix FoxFarms ChaChing (9-50-30) in water until it reads 700-1500ppm (depends on how big your balls are and how much you are willing to push it vs what your girls can take) PH this to pref, mine is 6.2.
Water your pots until the water runs out. This will force the clean water out and replace it with food.
Within 20 minutes, your plants will "gloss up". I dont know what they put in ChaChing, but it adds an element to the plant nothing else has.
Watch your plants (I do it hourly when dosing heavy). Burning of the larger leaves is ok imo. Were gonna cut those off anyway...and it is a sign the plant is absorbing max nutes....so much so it burns a little.
Some will say this is bullshit, yer hurting the plant. Whatever. I have done this time and time again. Yes sometimes I over do it and get some crunchy leaves. Speaking of that....
If you do too much DONT PANIC! Signs: leaves get brown at the tip and then spreads up the leaf. Just flush with tap water until ppm of runoff is below 300.
Pics are my most recent girls. On a scale of 1 tp 10 I pushed the nutes all grow to a 8-9. In pic1, you can see the slightly burnt tips. This is the BEST thing I can see. It says I am full of nutes, almost puking here!
Pics 2 and 3 show the inner perfect buds. As you can see, the core of what we smoke is unaffected. The leaf took the hit and by doing so allowed these buds to get the max nutes they could use.
Also note I overdid it a bit at some point. Other leaves marked are overly crisp from nute push. THIS IS OKAY. Im not smokin that leaf...and the plant will replace the area it took up with something else.
Some growers think I am crazy and hurtful (my harshest critics) to my girls. In the end, the desired result is all that matters. Case in point, the last pics are what happens when you take a genetically great plant and give it my 1-2-3 grow punch. The secret weapons I believe most help arte the nute push, the flush and the cha-ching at the very end
NOTE: Feed them cha ching once to be safe up to everyday until you see leaf stress/burn. 1-2 weeks before harvest, flush again and use a commercial flush. Otherwise your weed will taste like nutes. (important)
Generally RH is not critical to MJ. It prefers 70-90 in veg and below 50 in flower. I have grown weed in 105 degrees in a poorly vented closet. I have grown in near perfect climate controlled rooms. Both grew good smoke.
Controlling RH can add to the potency and vigor of the plant. Some say for the cost and trouble to do this, you dont see a payoff.
If your goal is to produce the best weed possible, then yes. Control your RH. 80 in veg below 50 in flower. below 35 if you have dank thick buds and molding is a concern.
If your goal is to have smoke, then dont worry about it. For all your effort and money to control it, you might wind up getting 1% more potency, maybe a gram or two more weight.
I will say from personal growing experience, lowering the RH to 35 in the final weeks makes them more resinous. A trichome loses 80-90 less water than a plain leaf surface. The plant will make more glands when the air is dryer.
One of several steps I do for adding stick at the end....
3 weeks before harvest....flush the plants with plain water until runoff reads 100ppm or lower (soil). PH is unimportant for this, use tap water for economy.
Mix FoxFarms ChaChing (9-50-30) in water until it reads 700-1500ppm (depends on how big your balls are and how much you are willing to push it vs what your girls can take) PH this to pref, mine is 6.2.
Water your pots until the water runs out. This will force the clean water out and replace it with food.
Within 20 minutes, your plants will "gloss up". I dont know what they put in ChaChing, but it adds an element to the plant nothing else has.
Watch your plants (I do it hourly when dosing heavy). Burning of the larger leaves is ok imo. Were gonna cut those off anyway...and it is a sign the plant is absorbing max nutes....so much so it burns a little.
Some will say this is bullshit, yer hurting the plant. Whatever. I have done this time and time again. Yes sometimes I over do it and get some crunchy leaves. Speaking of that....
If you do too much DONT PANIC! Signs: leaves get brown at the tip and then spreads up the leaf. Just flush with tap water until ppm of runoff is below 300.
Pics are my most recent girls. On a scale of 1 tp 10 I pushed the nutes all grow to a 8-9. In pic1, you can see the slightly burnt tips. This is the BEST thing I can see. It says I am full of nutes, almost puking here!
Pics 2 and 3 show the inner perfect buds. As you can see, the core of what we smoke is unaffected. The leaf took the hit and by doing so allowed these buds to get the max nutes they could use.
Also note I overdid it a bit at some point. Other leaves marked are overly crisp from nute push. THIS IS OKAY. Im not smokin that leaf...and the plant will replace the area it took up with something else.
Some growers think I am crazy and hurtful (my harshest critics) to my girls. In the end, the desired result is all that matters. Case in point, the last pics are what happens when you take a genetically great plant and give it my 1-2-3 grow punch. The secret weapons I believe most help arte the nute push, the flush and the cha-ching at the very end
NOTE: Feed them cha ching once to be safe up to everyday until you see leaf stress/burn. 1-2 weeks before harvest, flush again and use a commercial flush. Otherwise your weed will taste like nutes. (important)
#8
Posted 22 February 2012 - 04:46 AM
Thanks man! Great tips, & very helpful info! I still must order my PPM tester! A huuuuge must! I will make sure i have it b4 i strt flowering. Plan on starting the flowering March 1st! Thanks again for all your help.
#9
Posted 22 February 2012 - 06:55 AM
Temps are far more critical then humidity. Humidity indoors is very hard to control. If you run heat you have low humidity...and its generally winter then and humidity is lower. If your running AC well the purpose of AC is to scrub the air of moisture. I never worry about it. Even if you get a humidifier if your running either of those you'll have to run it a lot and 24/7.
Temps on the other hand below 60 your going to have issues. 85 and up slows growth triple digits and you can kill it.
Just remember cannabis likes temps and humidity that you do.
PPM meter is useful and PH meter. Both will aid you tremendously. Love advanced nutrients here. I use Sensi Grow Bloom A/B, Advanced Nutes Big Bud, and Bud Candy.
Pick up a bottle of Botanicare Cal Mag. Stuffs a miracle worker.
Temps on the other hand below 60 your going to have issues. 85 and up slows growth triple digits and you can kill it.
Just remember cannabis likes temps and humidity that you do.
PPM meter is useful and PH meter. Both will aid you tremendously. Love advanced nutrients here. I use Sensi Grow Bloom A/B, Advanced Nutes Big Bud, and Bud Candy.
Pick up a bottle of Botanicare Cal Mag. Stuffs a miracle worker.
#10
Posted 13 March 2012 - 10:07 PM
In soil yes, not for hydro though...
wat is then?...and u mean in the rez or the grow room?
#11
Posted 13 March 2012 - 10:16 PM
wat is then?...and u mean in the rez or the grow room?
Hydro ph is best at 5.8
soil is 6.5 - 6.8
Grow room????????????????
#12
Posted 13 March 2012 - 10:16 PM
#13
Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:42 PM
What would you all say is the ideal temperature range & humidity range for your grow room? Also, is the ideal pH range 6.5-6.8, or am I off a little on that? Thanks a ton in advance!
my ph i range 5.5 - 6.5 i always try hit 5.8
Temp : 20-25
humidity : 40-70%
#14
Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:47 PM
#15
Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:08 AM
Just thought, 5.8 for hydro
5.8 is optimal but if you let it fluctuate a little slowly from say 5.6 to 6.2 the plant will absorb the whole spectrum of additives like zink iron and other micro nutrients. Just my .02
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