what proportions of N-P-K do your plants need and when do they need them? this info has been culled from Recreational Drugs Information Home Page , a simple, easy to read info site that discusses most recreational drugs. Nutrients And Marijuana Grown In Soil Nutrient (or fertilizer) is food for plants. Marijuana plants need a certain amount of food in order to grow properly. The primary nutrients in plant foods are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). In addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, marijuana plants require a lesser amount of secondary nutrients and trace quantities of other elements. Secondary nutrients are calcium, sulphur, and magnesium. Trace elements are small quantities of boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese. Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format N is Nitrogen P is Phosphorus K is Potassium A 15-15-15 plant food contains: 15% Nitrogen 15% Phosphorus 15% Potassium A 20-10-10 plant food contains: 20% Nitrogen 10% Phosphorus 10% Potassium The percentage of the solution not used by nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium is secondary nutrients, trace elements, and inert material. An all purpose fertilizer with secondary elements like calcium, sulphur and magnesium and trace elements boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese will get you through all stages of growth. But during different stages of life, you can adjust the different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth. After germination, when growing marijuana in soil, you should water feed (no nutrients) the plants for the first week or two. Almost all soil will contain some amount of fertilizer for the plant to feed on. A minimal amount (or no) fertilizer should be added to the water for the first week or two. Then use a 50% solution for two weeks, then go to a 100% solution. Plants are delicate at this stage and can go for a week or two with a minimal amount of food. At the maximum, use a solution that is no more than 50% of the strength of the recommended level. That is, if the nutrient manufacturer recommends mixing one tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water, you should add less than half a tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water for the first two weeks after germinating. Do not give your plants extra fertilizer thinking it will make them grow faster. Too much will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plants will take longer to grow but will not die. Follow the mixing instructions on the package, if you aren't sure, use less rather than more. During vegetative growth the plants need lots of N (nitrogen). They also need a fair amount of P (phosphorus) and K (potassium). A plant food that is 20-10-10, or 30-15-15, or something similar, with trace elements should do a very good job. During flowering the plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) than they did during vegetative growth. They need some N (nitrogen) but not as much as they did during vegetative growth. They also need calcium. If you used: --- something like 20-10-10 for vegetative growth, then try using 10-20-20 (or similar) for flowering. --- something like 30-15-15 for vegetative growth, then try using 15-30-30 (or similar) for flowering. If you can't find nutrients containing the proper combination for your needs (or you are not sure what kind of nutrient to get), look for a plant food recommended for growth when the plant is in the first stages of life. Look for a plant food recommended for blooming (or flowering) when the plant is in the flowering stage. Make sure any plant food you use contains nutrients and trace elements. And remember that during flowering, calcium is important. Dry Powder vs Liquid Nutrients If you are buying plant food, get the dry powder kind that you mix with water. They are much cheaper over the long run when you compare with already mixed liquid solutions. Already mixed liquid solutions are just as good but many are primarily water and a good portion of the price you pay is to cover shipping water that you can add at home for free. There are some concentrated solutions that may be cost effective but I've always saved money using dry powder plant food. The best way to dissolve dry nutrients is to put some water in a cup, add the nutrient powder and stir. When the powder is fully dissolved, add it to the watering container. Don't use any nutrients not specifically designed for growing in soil, that is, don't try to use nutrients designed for hydroponic systems. Stop all fertilizer about 14 days before harvesting, water the plants without nutrients. You can repeat this water only 'feeding' several times in the 2 weeks (or more) prior to harvest. This is so N-P-K and other elements can be removed from the plants before harvesting. This will insure that your weed doesn't taste like plant food and you are ingesting a minimal amount of N-P-K or trace elements. See when to harvest your marijuana crop for more info. Warning: Do not over-fertilize. It will kill your plants. Always read the instructions for the fertilizer being used. Use 1/2 strength if you are unsure of what your plants can take. Build up slowly to higher concentrations of food over time. Novice soil growers tend to over-fertilize their plants. Mineral salts build up over time to higher levels of dissolved solids. Use straight water for one feeding if it is believed the buildup is getting too great. If your plants look really green, withhold food for a while to be sure they are not being over-fed. If in doubt, use less rather than more fertilizer. To ensure that you aren't overfeeding, for one feeding per month, leach (use straight water) for feeding the plants. copyright © www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/ Nutrients And Growing Hydroponic Marijuana Nutrient (or fertilizer) is food for plants. Marijuana plants need a certain amount of food in order to grow properly. The primary nutrients in plant foods are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). In addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, marijuana plants require a lesser amount of secondary nutrients and trace quantities of other elements. Secondary nutrients are calcium, sulphur, and magnesium. Trace elements are small quantities of boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese. Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format N is Nitrogen P is Phosphorus K is Potassium A 15-15-15 plant food contains: 15% Nitrogen 15% Phosphorus 15% Potassium A 20-10-10 plant food contains: 20% Nitrogen 10% Phosphorus 10% Potassium The percentage of the solution not used by nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium is secondary nutrients, trace elements, and inert material. An all purpose nutrient with secondary elements like calcium, sulphur and magnesium and trace elements boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese will get you through all stages of growth. But during different stages of life, you can adjust the different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth. Regardless of the nutrient you choose, during the first two weeks of life and the first two weeks of flowering growth, use half the amount (or less) of nutrient solution the manufacturer recommends for adult growth. That is, if the nutrient package says to mix one tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water, you should add less than half a tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water for the first two weeks after sprouting and flowering. This is not essential when flowering but it is for seeds and clones. Some marijuana growers don't add any nutrients to the water for the first two weeks. They then use a 50% solution for two weeks, then go to a 100% solution. During vegetative growth the plants need lots of N (nitrogen). They also need a fair amount of P (phosphorus) and K (potassium), 20-10-10, or 30-15-15, or something similar, with trace elements should do it. During flowering the plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) than they did during vegetative growth. They need some N (nitrogen) but not as much as they did during vegetative growth. They also need calcium. If you used: --- something like 20-10-10 for vegetative growth, then try using 10-20-20 (or similar) for flowering. --- something like 30-15-15 for vegetative growth, then try using 15-30-30 (or similar) for flowering. If you can't find nutrients containing the proper combination for your needs (or you are not sure what kind of nutrient to get), look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for growth when the plant is in the first stages of life and look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for blooming (or flowering) when the plant is in the flowering stage. Make sure the nutrients you use contain trace elements. Two and three part hydroponic nutrient solutions, that allow you to custom blend the amount of the different components, are recommended. But they might be costly. Organic hydroponic nutrients are available but they can be hard to find, and expensive. Do not give your plants extra nutrients thinking it will make them grow faster. Too much will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plants will take longer to grow but will not die. Follow the mixing instructions on your hydroponic nutrient package, if you aren't sure, use less rather than more. As water evaporates and is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. Add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir. If you have a reverse osmosis filter or use distilled water, they don't have to be aged. I don't add nutrient solution to the water when I top up the reservoir tank, some people do. Change the nutrient solution every 2 weeks. That is, discard the old solution and rinse off the reservoir, pumps, and other equipment that is used with hot water. After cleaning, add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir then add nutrient solution. You only need to clean the cups and tubing the plants are in before you start a new crop. The old solution that you are discarding can be used to water house or garden plants. This will at least double the growth rate if you usually water your plants with regular tap water. Dry Powder vs Liquid Nutrients If you are buying nutrients, get the dry powder kind that you mix with water. They are much cheaper over the long run when you compare with already mixed liquid solutions. Already mixed liquid solutions are just as good, but many are primarily water and a good portion of the price you pay is to cover shipping water that you can add at home for free. There are some concentrated solutions that may be cost effective but I've always saved money using dry powder nutrients. If you are using a hydroponic system that uses a pump to circulate water you will have to make sure the powdered solution dissolves fully before adding it to the reservoir. This is because any undissolved nutrient crystals can ruin a pump. The best way to dissolve dry nutrients is to put some water in a cup, add the nutrient powder and stir. When you are sure that the powder has been fully dissolved, you can add it to the nutrient reservoir. If there are any undissolved crystals left in the bottom of the glass you can add some hot water then stir and let it sit for a few hours. After a few hours, stir them up again and add to the reservoir, if there are still undissolved crystals in the glass, you can throw them out. Whatever you do, don't add any solids that might damage a pump into the nutrient reservoir. Don't use any nutrients not specifically designed for hydroponic systems, that is, don't try to use nutrients designed for growing in soil. Stop all plant food at least 7 days before harvesting when growing in a hydroponic garden. The last time you change the water in your reservoir, don't add any nutrients. You can repeat this water only 'feeding' several times in the week prior to harvest. When growing in soil, stop all plant food at least 14 days before harvest. This is so N-P-K and other elements can be removed from the plants before harvesting. This will insure that your weed is easy to ignite, doesn't taste like plant food, and you are ingesting a minimal amount of N-P-K or trace elements. See when to harvest your marijuana crop for more info. copyright © www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/
Thank you for the information and the explanations it was extremely helpful. I am a newbie and need a simple nutrient set up for now. What would you recommend to get me through the veg and flower cycle,plant is 3months old but has had some unstable conditions. Is there anything worthwhile from a garden shop or do I need to order more of a "name brand" no hydro shop in my area.:confused
My system is something like 4-5-4 (coco coir). I add up to 10ml per 3780ml. The final concentration once mixed is something like 0.011-0.013-0.011. My plants love it.
what about auto strains, can u just use a soil like Fox Farm ocean forest with nutes in it, and not add any nutes, since autos are fast growing ?
Are you supplementing your nute or water mix with something like Calmag? I tryed coco a few times and noticed that they were more prone to a calmag deficiency then compaired to regular growing soil like Fox farms Ocean Forest.
I am currently switching to a DWC hydro setup 4 plants in an 18 gallon flowering tote and I was wanting to know any good advice from ya.. This grow area is going to be for flower purposes only and will be harvested every 2 months and cleaned out every two months... The only thing I need to know is the amount of nutes I need to add and do I need to add more nutes during the 2 months or just add water to maintain the water level?
WOW I did not know that N-P-K can be removed from plants before harvesting. Seems to me like loading the plants up with nutrient can't be reversed very much. It is what It is I guess. Advancing the plant sciences by leaps and bounds.
[quote name='"hope2toke"']WOW I did not know that N-P-K can be removed from plants before harvesting. Seems to me like loading the plants up with nutrient can't be reversed very much. It is what It is I guess. Advancing the plant sciences by leaps and bounds.[/quote] Lol right...
is it ok to mix nutes? i just found a super stem nute and im wondering if i can add it in with my 10-20-20. both nutes are liquid form.
The NPK of your nutes are already pretty strong. Post a link to the super stem nute your asking about adding.
well its a vietnamese brand as i live in vietnam. i could post a pic but you wouldnt know the brand nor be able to read it. it says to add 20 cc with 16 litres of water. i want to use it for 2 reasons... 1 because my stem was split after a rain storm a week and a half ago. @. my branches are really heavy and when it rains they absorb a lot of water and get weighed down. ive already lost a few branches and don't want to lose anymore.
Whats it got in it? I heard you can use silica products for stregnthing stems but was told that you only use it in veg growth not in flowering. Are yours in veg or flower? Does it also have an NPK ration on it? I could be wrong about it as I havent heard much or really read up on it. If your flowering I would try to cover your plants up when it rains. I also have some branches that are getting to heavy to support themselves on their own. I use some string and bamboo stakes to help support them. next year i`m gonna be using some plastic trellis like netting on the tops.
I suggest you tie em to some stakes if you dont want to loose anymore. is there no more bamboo in vietnam? how are ferts going to adress your two issues? lol even your username is bambu
Very good info! Just one follow-up question. When adding nutrients to a coco-coir medium....should nutrients be added to the top of the pot or to the overflow tray at bottom, to be drawn into medium? My container is 9" tall. Thanks!