So you want to grow Marijuana, your ?'s answered here.

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by motorheed

whoa mate.
1. can move lights up b4 misting ,your way be hard doin it in the dark ,no?
2.DO NOT MIST ALL THE WAY THROUGH WHOLE GROW....WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU MIST WHEN ITS BUDDING? ANSWER; INCREASES THE CHANCES OF BUD ROT
3.as for your lighting schedules mate, you wanta stress the plant into giving up?

sorry mate your tryin too help but that kinda help aint whats needed

#1. Misting,use your head man,turn your normal room lights on to mist and leave your grow light for the growin.

#2. Mistin throughout does work for some and not for others,depends on alot of factors,if you were to do it during flower,again use your head,DONT soak the buds man.

#3. Flowering light cycles have been explained throughout this whole thread which YOU did not read,JCJs advice was solid about speeding up the flowering process and the drawbacks of doing so,and his opinion on the only time he would recommend doing so,Before coming to your noobe conclutions try askin for the clarification on the questions which have been answered over and over again not only on this great thread but all over GC.

[jcj77d]

Originally Posted by ocitown

JCJ,looks like a micro def. but im more thinkin now its just a simple case of over nutes even at 50% their only two weeks old and i was feeding every watering not once a week,they were light green and one 1/4 nute feed prolly would of fixed that.I did a water runoff test today with my now normal 1 drop of superthrive and now using 1/4 the Sensizym i was(until a lil bigger) PH @ 6.8 and the test revieled a 7.5-7.6. So i flushed both 5" pots with just 1 qt.of 5.8 PH water and will do this again with a 6.3 PH if needed to adj. the soil if you agree.

thats your prob, u where in lockout, that ph of 7.5-7.6 is way high & your actually ph is prob more like 7.8 +, (the runoff is usually lower than the soil ph), get that ph in range & i bet youll be back up & running, & u only need to feed 1 time a wk or so, #1 beginner mistake overwatering & overfeeding. are u still having RH probs?

[eleven357]

Originally Posted by ocitown

Are those 4 week old plants on a 12/12 or are they just showing presex pistles,how long on 12/12?

They arent on 12/12 yet. presex.

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by jcj77d

thats your prob, u where in lockout, that ph of 7.5-7.6 is way high & your actually ph is prob more like 7.8 +, (the runoff is usually lower than the soil ph), get that ph in range & i bet youll be back up & running, & u only need to feed 1 time a wk or so, #1 beginner mistake overwatering & overfeeding. are u still having RH probs?

Should i do another runoff test today(watered yesterday)of wait till their ready?One looks GREAT and the other is looking better so i think another test this soon would over water and add to another prob.,if they were looking worse ide do the 3x flush but i dont think its needed,my noobe mistake was what i was thinkin all along.Some dryer leaves near the bottom but the tips looked fine,getting better though.Thanx man.

[jcj77d]

Originally Posted by ocitown

On the dollimite lime,im reading two mixes,1cup per gal. of soil and 1 TBS per gal. whats the right mix?

The best way to stable PH is by adding 1 ounce of Dolomite Lime per 1 gallon of planting soil. Dolomite Lime has been a useful PH stabilizer for years, since it has a neutral PH of 7 when added to your soil it stabilizes your soil at PH 7. Mix the dry soil medium and dolomite together really well, give the mix a good watering then after the water has had chance to settle and leech into the soil a bit give the mix a really good stir. Then water the soil/lime mix and give it another stir. Best plan is to mix fine dolomite lime into your mix before planting. Fine Dolomite will help stabilize your pH; however, if the ph becomes unstable or changes, you can then use Hydrated Dolomite Lime. Add some of the hydrated lime to luke warm water and give it a good stir then water your plants with it. Give the plants a good watering with this hydrated lime added and your PH should fall or rise back to 7.
How to test the pH of your soil mix

Measuring the pH of soil is just as important as with hydro applications, but few people know how to test soil pH to see if it is within the optimum range for growing robust healthy plants. Here I will try to explain my method of testing any soil / soilless mix, enabling me to spot any problems and correct them if necessary.

Firstly, wait till your soil has dried out and is due for its next watering schedule. Then take some plain water that you usually water your garden with, and adjust the pH to 7.0. You must make sure that you know the exact pH of the water going into your soil, and the neutral 7.0 is best, but anywhere from 6.5 – 7.0 will suffice.

Then place your pot into a bowl of some sort to catch the runoff water, and then start to water your soil slowly (with your pH- corrected plain water) till the water starts to drip from the bottom.
It’s the first drops of water that will give you the best reading of your soil, so make sure to water slowly till you see the first droplets. Then remove the pot from the bowl to eliminate excess water entering the bowl. Then perform the pH test on the runoff and compare it too your initial test.
The results of the runoff test will likely be lower than your starting value of 7.0. If this is the case, a small drop of 0.5 pH to 6.5 pH (example) would be ok and your soil needs no further alterations at the moment. But that’s not to say that it won’t need any future tests at all, just not at this time.

[Editor’s note: It may be beneficial to obtain an initial sample, as well as a ‘full flush’ sample in seperate bowls. In addition, test several plants in the garden just to verify your results]

What if the pH is off?
If your results prove to have dropped considerably, say to around 5.5 (which can happen in late stages of flowering), you will need to add some lime into your soil to help buffer the pH back up again.

Remove the first inch or so of soil, taking care not to damage any roots whilst performing this task. Then sprinkle the lime into the pot, nice and evenly at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lime per gallon of soil. Then replace the soil you removed earlier, and saturate the soil good to wash in the lime.

Do the same test next time your plants need watering just to check that everything is fine, if more lime needs to be added then just repeat the process again till you reach close to 6.5 – 7.0 with the runoff.

Ensuring that your pH is correct should be done throughout the life cycle; this will help eliminate any nutrient lockout that may occur. I recommend doing this once a month just to keep the PH in check, and you should never have a problem with deficiencies caused by pH lockout.

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by eleven357

They arent on 12/12 yet. presex.

Nice,my two week old WW has two spikes but i dont know if their new nodes or new branch starts? Is it possible to see signs of sexing at two weeks?

[jcj77d]

Originally Posted by Machine

anybody got some good pics of tap roots? i was wondering if they came out of a certain part of the seeds, like from the flat part or the pointed end, i dont remember which end my last ones came from and have never noticed it before heh.

sure,

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by jcj77d

The best way to stable PH is by adding 1 ounce of Dolomite Lime per 1 gallon of planting soil. Dolomite Lime has been a useful PH stabilizer for years, since it has a neutral PH of 7 when added to your soil it stabilizes your soil at PH 7. Mix the dry soil medium and dolomite together really well, give the mix a good watering then after the water has had chance to settle and leech into the soil a bit give the mix a really good stir. Then water the soil/lime mix and give it another stir. Best plan is to mix fine dolomite lime into your mix before planting. Fine Dolomite will help stabilize your pH; however, if the ph becomes unstable or changes, you can then use Hydrated Dolomite Lime. Add some of the hydrated lime to luke warm water and give it a good stir then water your plants with it. Give the plants a good watering with this hydrated lime added and your PH should fall or rise back to 7.
How to test the pH of your soil mix

Measuring the pH of soil is just as important as with hydro applications, but few people know how to test soil pH to see if it is within the optimum range for growing robust healthy plants. Here I will try to explain my method of testing any soil / soilless mix, enabling me to spot any problems and correct them if necessary.

Firstly, wait till your soil has dried out and is due for its next watering schedule. Then take some plain water that you usually water your garden with, and adjust the pH to 7.0. You must make sure that you know the exact pH of the water going into your soil, and the neutral 7.0 is best, but anywhere from 6.5 – 7.0 will suffice.

Then place your pot into a bowl of some sort to catch the runoff water, and then start to water your soil slowly (with your pH- corrected plain water) till the water starts to drip from the bottom.
It’s the first drops of water that will give you the best reading of your soil, so make sure to water slowly till you see the first droplets. Then remove the pot from the bowl to eliminate excess water entering the bowl. Then perform the pH test on the runoff and compare it too your initial test.
The results of the runoff test will likely be lower than your starting value of 7.0. If this is the case, a small drop of 0.5 pH to 6.5 pH (example) would be ok and your soil needs no further alterations at the moment. But that’s not to say that it won’t need any future tests at all, just not at this time.

[Editor’s note: It may be beneficial to obtain an initial sample, as well as a ‘full flush’ sample in seperate bowls. In addition, test several plants in the garden just to verify your results]

What if the pH is off?
If your results prove to have dropped considerably, say to around 5.5 (which can happen in late stages of flowering), you will need to add some lime into your soil to help buffer the pH back up again.

Remove the first inch or so of soil, taking care not to damage any roots whilst performing this task. Then sprinkle the lime into the pot, nice and evenly at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lime per gallon of soil. Then replace the soil you removed earlier, and saturate the soil good to wash in the lime.

Do the same test next time your plants need watering just to check that everything is fine, if more lime needs to be added then just repeat the process again till you reach close to 6.5 – 7.0 with the runoff.

Ensuring that your pH is correct should be done throughout the life cycle; this will help eliminate any nutrient lockout that may occur. I recommend doing this once a month just to keep the PH in check, and you should never have a problem with deficiencies caused by pH lockout.

So this says two TBS per gal. soil=1oz by volume not weight.Dry powder is usually measured in volumes.The other two sources are 1 TBS and George Cervantes video says 1 cup=8 oz per gal soil,this lime must be very benign for soils(forgiving).BTW, the WW got no DL at all.

[jcj77d]

Originally Posted by ocitown

So my good WW has its top then a 5 leaf and just under to the side their is a 3 leaf then under the 5 leaf a single leaf with lil ones between the 3 leaf and the top.Does this mean it has 3 true sets of leaves? This WW is 2" tall and 5" wide with almost a 3/16" stem and looks textbook perfect in every way(im stoked). At 16 days old with those sizes when should i plan on the transplant and is a 4 gal. pot ok for being a mom?Pending sexing.

yes when 1 leaf has 3 blades then your on your 3rd leaf set. & transplant & wk 3

[eleven357]

Originally Posted by ocitown

Nice,my two week old WW has two spikes but i dont know if their new nodes or new branch starts? Is it possible to see signs of sexing at two weeks?

Well not according to what I have been reading (The Medical Growers Bible by Jorge Cervantes + The Best of Ask Ed:Your Marijuana questions answered by Ed Rosenthal). It says in the books that you can see presex signs at 4 weeks. I dunno, I would just keep looking myself. I have a nice jewelers magnifying lens that I use to examine my plants.

I know I am new to growing but I hope that helps out.

[jcj77d]

Originally Posted by eleven357

I know the last pic is a female(w00t) but can anyone tell if the other two are female yet? They are all around 4 weeks old.

Thanks guys!

give them more time, cant tell yet

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by jcj77d

yes when 1 leaf has 3 blades then your on your 3rd leaf set. & transplant & wk 3

So one more week to TX,im sooo excited and glad i got the 4' 8 bulb T5 cause ill have 4 four gal. and use all that light.

[ocitown]

Originally Posted by eleven357

Well not according to what I have been reading (The Medical Growers Bible by Jorge Cervantes + The Best of Ask Ed:Your Marijuana questions answered by Ed Rosenthal). It says in the books that you can see presex signs at 4 weeks. I dunno, I would just keep looking myself. I have a nice jewelers magnifying lens that I use to examine my plants.

I know I am new to growing but I hope that helps out.

Yes sir it does,i also have the loop and 100x mag. and will TX in a week and be looking forward to the fourth week of white hair filling my face