
05-14-2005, 10:08 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: High High Up!
Posts: 537
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Germenation
Germination
Alright well there are a lot of different methods used to germinate seeds, personally I’ve only used 3 and well with The Paper Towel Method, I’ve had a 100% success rate. I’ve also tried the Jiffy Pellets but only had a 50% rate with those. I have also tried the Water Method but had about 70% success rate.So I’m just going to explain The Paper Towel Method, since I think it’s better and well just about as easy as can be.
Paper Towel Method
The first step is to get yourself either a Tupperware container or a plain old ceramic bowl (really anything can be used these are just some ideas). Next you need some paper towel, make sure it is paper towel not toilet paper or facial tissue. Ok so you now have a container and at least 2-3 sheets of paper towel. The first step is to take one paper towel and fold it so that you make it 2-4 layers thick, once you have done this place it into the bottom of the container. Now it’s time for the water, for this you want clean pH adjusted water. For most the easiest way to do this is just to used bottled water (thought tap water should be ok but the pH may be off). Slowly pour water into onto the paper towel and tip it so the water flows and saturates the whole paper towel. You don’t want a pool of water just enough so that the paper towel is dripping wet. If you are unsure just turn the container on it’s side and wait till the water is coming out as drips. At this point place your seeds onto the folded wet paper towel, be sure to leave at least a half inch between the seeds. Once you have placed you seeds, grab another sheet of paper towel fold it into 2 layers and wet the same way as the other paper towels. Once wet lay it over the seeds, if you used a container with a lid put the lid on and place it in a warm dark place (on top of your computer monitor, or tower). If you used a bowl then place some saran wrap (cling film) over the top and poke a few holes, next place a saucer or plate on top to keep the light out. The purpose of all of this is to create a humid, warm and wet environment so that the seeds can begin to absorb the water and come to life.
Now we play the waiting game, check on them every 12 hours or so to make sure the paper towel hasn’t dried out. Seeds can take anywhere from 24-96 hours to show a tap root so be patient. The Tap Root is basically the first root of the plant, the shell of the see usually cracks and out comes a single white root. By watching this you can tell when your seeds are ready to be moved into the medium of your choice. Most growers wait till the tap root is anywhere from ¼ inch to 1 inch long, there is no real benefit or down side to any specific length (I’ve tired both and there were no difference in plant growth). >>
Water Method
For this all you need is a glass or mug and some pH adjusted water (bottled works well) or distilled water. Next just fill your glass with the water and place your seeds in (just let them float on the surface).In this method, the grower places his/her seed(s) in a cup/mug of some sort, which is filled with warm water. I use a ceramic coffee cup - as it is a good conductor of heat - and I cover it with a ceramic plate (again, to prevent heat from escaping, as well as shield seeds from light). For best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room temperature (again, to compensate for any drop in temperature). It is normal for the seed(s) to float on the surface; just let it/them soak for a while then give it/them a little tap to make it/they sink (the best, most viable seeds will sink to the bottom). Although it is virtually impossible to over-soak seeds using this method, seeds should only be soaked until the taproot has emerged.
Transplanting to Soil
Since most first time growers tend to use soil as it gives a new grower more time to diagnose problems and correct them I’ll explain the rest of the growing process using soil. When choosing a soil for your plants try to avoid any with “slow release” or any kind of fertilizer already in it. The reason for this is that these soils tend to develop hot spots (high concentrations of fertilizers in pockets). This can be very hard on a young plant, so it’s best to go with plain potting soil or one of the many custom blends out there. Once your seeds have grown their tap roots, in your soil make a indent in the soil about ½ inch to an inch deep with your finger. Now without touching the tap root and being as gentile as you can place the seed and tap root into the hole with the tap root facing down. Once it’s in there gently cover the seed with some soil, give the soil a light watering (enough so that the area around the seed is nice and moist). At this point I like to cover the top of the container with saran wrap (cling film) and punch a few holes in it. This keeps the humidity high, which helps at the early stages of life. At this point you don’t have to place the little ones under lights but you can. If you do decide to place them under lights be sure it’s a low intensity since when they break the surface they will be some what sensitive to harsh lights. Most growers use CFLs or Fluorescents at this point since they are easiest on the seedlings, though HID (HPS or MH can be used too). Once the seedlings break the surface by about half and inch the saran wrap can be removed. The first set of leaves the plant develops are usually small and oval shaped. These are called the cotyledons (sp?). At this point germination is complete and you are now ready to move onto the Vegetative stage of the Plants life.
Last edited by Vokal420 : 05-14-2005 at 10:22 PM.
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