[SmittyDaDude]

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THE CANNABIS GROW BIBLE
© Copyright 2001, Greg Green
All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise, without written permission
from the author.
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The Cannabis Grow Bible
4th edition
By
Greg Green
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Acknowledgements
My thanks to my family and friends
for making this book possible. This
book is dedicated to growers all over
the world. I would also like to say
thank you to the members of
www.cannabisX.com and
www.overgrow.com with a really
big thank you going out to X,
~shabang~, The Penguin,
Kryptonite, Strawdog, Slowhand,
Chimera, BushyOlderGrower,
Ralpheme, RealHigh, Clone,
cannabisX and Vic High.
This is a book about growing
cannabis, written by people who
grow cannabis.
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DO YOU WANT TO LEARN HOW TO
GROW POT LIKE THIS?
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Picture by BushyOlderGrower.
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OR MAKE HASH LIKE THIS?
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Picture by BigIslandBud.
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THEN CONGRATULATIONS BECAUSE YOU HAVE BOUGHT THE
RIGHT BOOK!
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PREFACE
This book has been written under adverse conditions. In most
countries it is illegal to own seeds, grow cannabis or use cannabis.
Maybe it will change for you one day if you make the effort to have
your voice heard. Until that day comes it is recommended that you
consult your local authorities to see what is your countries legal status
with regards to growing cannabis. This book does not want you to
break the law nor is it here for that purpose. This book is about
cannabis and how it is grown around the world. Even though the
contents of this book may show you how to acquire seeds and grow
very potent plants, you are responsible for your own actions. We would
like to see you grow cannabis however we would not like to see you
break the law.
I would also like to say that many countries have permitted
medical users to grow cannabis in their home. If they have in your
country then this book will be of massive benefit to you and your
health.
The Cannabis Grow Bible is part of a foundation series and is
a developing project. We listen too and talk with 100's of growers
every single year. It is with their advice that we can offer you the latest
updates on growing techniques and strains.
The Cannabis Grow Bible is an information system. We hope
that you stick with us and learn more about how to grow BIGGER
BUD!
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CONTENTS
PREFACE
FOREWORD
Chapter 1 :
THE CANNABIS PLANT: A BRIEF HISTORY OF CANNABIS
AND THE BASICS OF USING CANNABIS.
-HOW CANNABIS IS USED
-SPECIES
-THC
-ZERO ZERO
-RESIN
-THE HIGH
Chapter 2 :
SEEDS
- SEEDS
- HOW TO GET SEEDS
- CHOOSING A SEED-BANK
- WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN CHOOSING SEEDS
- GROWING FACTORS
- THE LIFE CYCLE OF THE MARIJUANA PLANT
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- FLOWERING NON-POLLINATED FEMALES (SINSEMILLA
CROP)
- CYCLE TIMES
Chapter 3 :
PROPAGATION
-WAYS TO GERMINATE YOUR SEEDS
-DANGERS WHEN PROPAGATING SEEDS
-TRANSPLANTING
-GERMINATION SOIL
-INDOOR AND OUTDOOR GROWING
-GENERAL INDOOR GROWING
-GENERAL OUTDOOR GROWING AND GUERRILLA FARMING
-GARDENING TOOLS
-MALE POTENCY
-SCUFFING SEEDS
Chapter 4 :
SECURITY
-SECURITY
-INDOOR SECURITY
-OUTDOOR SECURITY
-GUERRILLA GROWING SECURITY
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Chapter 5 :
THE INDOOR GROWING OF CANNABIS
-LIGHTS
-LIGHT BANDS
-POOR LIGHTING SYSTEMS
-AVERAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS
-BEST LIGHTING SYSTEMS
-HORTICULTURAL LIGHTS - HID
-WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A LIGHT
-WATTAGE AND LUMENS
-LUMENS AND MARIJUANA GROWING
-LIGHTING FACTORS AND HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM
YOUR LIGHT
-SOIL
-pH
-NUTRIENTS
-SOME COMMON SOIL TYPES
-POTS
-CONTINUING YOUR INDOOR SOIL GROW
-INDOOR VEGETATIVE GROWTH
-WATERING
-ADJUSTING YOU LIGHTS
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Chapter 6 :
THE BASICS OF INDOOR ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL
-SOIL CONTROL
-ph CONTROL
-SOIL FLUSHING
-NUTRIENT CONTROL
-FEEDING
-AIR
-HUMIDITY
-TEMPERATURE
-FANS
Chapter 7 :
PRE-FLOWERING AND FLOWERING
-THE END OF VEGETATIVE GROWTH
-PRE-FLOWERING
-EARLY SEXING METHODS
-WHEN TO FLOWER
-THE ALL IMPORTANT 12/12
-PROBLEMS WITH 12/12
-HOW TO SEX YOUR PLANTS
-HERMAPHRODITES
-FLOWERING
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Chapter 8 :
ADVANCED INDOOR SOIL
BASED GROW METHODS
-SOG
-ScrOG
-CABINET GROWING
-ADVANCED SET-UPS
-PERPETUAL GROW CYCLE
Chapter 9 :
BASIC HYDROPONICS
- THE GROWER AND THE GROWING MEDIUM
- HYDROPONICS SET-UPS
-HYDROPONICS NUTRIENTS
-HYDROPONICS GROWING MEDIUMS
-CANNABIS AND HYDROPONICS
-THE BUBBLER
Chapter 10 :
OUTDOOR GROWING
-THE GROWER AND THE GREAT OUTDOORS
-CARING FOR OUTDOOR PLANTS
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Chapter 11 :
THE BASICS OF PLANT CARE
-THINNING
-LIGHT BENDING
-PRUNING
-BUSHES
-TRAINING
-INCREASING YIELD
Chapter 12 :
PREDATORS AND PESTS
-INDEX OF PESTS
-CLEANING THE GROW ROOM
Chapter 13 :
PROBLEM SOLVER
- PLANT PROBLEMS AND HOW TO SOLVE THEM
- POT-BOUND AND ROOT-BOUND
-LOCKOUT
-BAD GENETICS
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Chapter 14:
HARVESTING AND CURING YOUR BUD
- INDICA HARVEST
-SATIVA HARVEST
-FAN LEAVES, LEAVES AND TRIM
-CURING
Chapter 15:
BREEDING
- MAKING SEEDS
-POLLEN
-SIMPLE BREEDING
-HOW TO CONTINUE A STRAIN THROUGH SEED
-HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE HYBRID
-AN INTRODUCTION INTO BASIC GENETICS
-GENE PAIRS
-DOMINANT AND RECESSIVE
-MODIFYING GENES
-PARTIAL DOMINANCE
-HARDY-WEINBERG EQUILIBRIUM
-THE TEST CROSS
-HARDY-WEINBERG EQUILIBRIUM PART 2
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-HOW TO TRUE BREED A STRAIN
-CUBING AND BACKCROSSING
-SELFING
Chapter 16:
STRAIN INDEX
Chapter 17:
HOW TO MAKE HASH
- HOW TO GATHER THE STALKED CAPITATE TRICHOMES
-SKUFF
-BASICS OF SCREENING
-PROPER SCREENING METHODS
-HOW TO PRESS SKUFF INTO HASH
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
INDEX
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FOREWORD
The book is a grow bible. There is still much work that needs
to be done to provide something that is truly of bible size, but that will
come in time. The reason why I know this is because cannabis
suppression has suspended cannabis information gathering over the
past 60 years. I can safely say that you can find books on Roses that are
10 times thicker than this book with heaps more information. Roses
are not illegal in most countries, so scientists are free to explore the
Rose. Sadly the same can not be said for cannabis......until now.
The Cannabis Grow Bible (CGB for short) is new. New, in
that the book is one of a kind. Those who are willing to take serious
risks in getting you this information have discovered most of what you
will read and learn here. It is fine and easy for me to compile the book
and write it. I am not at risk by printing this book, but those who grew
out hundreds of plants in their basement to provide me with raw data
on this subject matter are at risk. It is with their help that they have
been able to help me parse what is real and what is not in the world of
growing cannabis. They have helped take facts and figures and use
these to put together a book that would truly help someone grow bigger
buds. The results have been outstanding and I am very thankful for
what they have done.
In this book you will learn a number of things. Probably too
many to remember all in one go if this is your first time growing. That
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is why I have broken the book into easy step by step portions. The book
runs from start to finish just like a growing plant would. So you can
imagine the life cycle of the cannabis plant being the foundation for
the style and layout of this book. This is what makes the book work. It
is part essay / part science. Too many books do not cover the science
very well and others do not cover the practical side very well. Here you
will meet both worlds as one.
There are some simple things you need to grow a cannabis
plant and this book will explain all those things to you, but there are
other things you need to know to grow a super cannabis plant and this
is where the book helps too, but it does not cross the two elements over
which can sometimes confuse the reader. The book will clearly define
what you can or can not do, but most of the time this has nothing to do
with your growing experience. It has more to do with how much
money you are willing to spend, what cannabis strains you have, and
where you are growing.
A grower is not limited by their growing experience. A
grower is limited by law, space, money, information and good
genetics. We can not help you with money, space and the law, but we
can help you with growing information and we can tell you where to
obtain good genetics.
Don't ever let bad results hamper your new hobby. That is
part of the process of learning. However, this book will point out some
mistakes that people have made so you don't have to repeat them and
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learn the hard way.
Glance over this book and flick through the chapters. Get an
air of what is going on. Then read it all from start to finish. By the
time you turn the last page you will probably have a bit of your own
home grown bud in a pipe. If you can do that then tell people about
this book. It is our goal to get everyone participating in growing the
great herb.
This is not the final book on the subject either. This book has
been designed in such a way that the book will grow on a yearly basis.
We will be adding new chapters, new pictures, new methods and new
theories every year. That is why the cannabis grow bible has become
the growers handbook of choice.
We hope that you stick with us and we hope that this book
will help you to get where you want to go. Happy growing and most of
all remember to........
...HAVE FUN!
Greg Green.
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The Cannabis Grow Bible
By Greg Green
"Since it's inception marijuana is natural, given by God for all living
creatures to use. Let peace and sanity prevail. Let the herb grow free.
There is no finer hobby on this planet than tending to a garden that
gives such delightful rewards." - Greg Green.
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Chapter 1
THE CANNABIS PLANT: A BRIEF HISTORY OF CANNABIS
AND THE BASICS OF USING CANNABIS
This picture is of a young female Skunk#1 plant developing her flower
cluster. This picture is from Strawdog.
Cannabis plants have been living on this planet for thousands,
maybe millions of years, and have been doing so for quite some time
before man’s intervention and after. Cannabis can grow nearly
everywhere and anywhere as long as the temperature is not too low
and there is enough sunlight and food present for the plant to flourish.
In Asia, one can travel to the various regions around Mongolia and
visit the cannabis plant naturally growing on the hillsides and across
the vast plains, sometimes covering entire hill faces and spreading
down onto the valley below. The Cannabis plant is a very adaptable
plant and can grow both in and outdoors.
The Cannabis plant has managed to travel across the globe
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without the help of man. The seed has been carried by the wind, in
bird droppings and has attached itself to animals that can, and do, trek
over long distances.
As you can see Mother Nature has distributed this plant in many ways.
The origins of the Cannabis plant are not entirely clear but
today it is generally recognized by most biologists and cannabis
researchers that it began its life somewhere in the Himalayas (Figure
1.1).
Figure 1.1 - This is section of the map of Asia. The area in the square
is where scientists believe cannabis started its Life.
Today, human intervention has caused the Cannabis plant to
grow under more controlled conditions and in areas where the plant
would not have had a previous history. It is estimated that in most
countries there must be at least 2 - 12 different cannabis strains
growing wildly.
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Wild Cannabis plants are rare in countries that have tried to
eliminate the plant by burning fields and conditioning woodlands. In
certain countries the Cannabis plant has been identified as a dangerous
drug and has been killed off by human beings and law enforcement
officials. It is treated as a weed and as a plant that causes social,
mental and physical problems. None of these reasons for removing the
plant are well founded but the cull of cannabis has occurred anyhow.
The Cannabis plant was used for many things other than the
extraction of THC (to be discussed later). Our ancestors, up until the
late 1800’s early 1900’s, used the Cannabis plant to create clothing
and other materials. The Cannabis plant or ‘hemp’ as it is called in the
textile industry is a very strong material and will withstand large
amounts of stress applied to it. Hemp material is widely regarded as
one of the best possible materials for producing fabrics. A pair of
trousers made from hemp, or a shirt made from hemp will withstand
the test of time. It is a far more superior material than cotton. This
should give you some clues as to why the fabrics industry wanted to
put a stop to the cultivation of marijuana in the late 1800’s. Hemp
fabric products will last longer than cotton fabric products thus the
buyer buys less over longer periods of time. This is the first instance of
the Cannabis plant being subjected to ridicule for capitalist gain.
The Cannabis plant has been subjected to a number of
stereotypical formats. The first one is that the resin produced by the
plant is physically addictive. This is not true and I will explain why. In
psychiatry there is a list of classifications for addictions of all abusive
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substances. It is contained in a paper called - ICD-10 (classifications of
Mental and Behavioral Disorders) which you can read on-line here.
http://www.who.int/whosis/icd10/
Medical doctors are not informed clearly about the use and
abuse of cannabis. This is because cannabis research is illegal in most
countries or if research is allowed most of the results are suppressed.
The only way a medical doctor can help a person with a
cannabis problem is by having some experience with people who have
had cannabis problems in the past. There are no special books to turn
too. There are no references which explain clearly what to do or IF
cannabis is physically addictive. There are no pills for cannabis
addiction (there are for alcoholism).
The only place a doctor can go is to the archives of what other
countries have said about the drug and its abuse. As a doctor, one
would maybe try Holland and read up on some of the material there, or
Belgium or Switzerland. There can be found medical research papers
that relate to cannabis dependence and all of them say the same thing.
(A) Can it be abused? YES. (B) Can it be addictive? YES. (C) Is
cannabis abuse or use life threatening? NO, but mental side effects
such as depression can be, but only a small percentage of addicts (NOT
USERS, BUT ADDICTS) go through this. (D) Has anyone ever died of
cannabis use? ONLY 1 PERSON in the history of cannabis has died
from its use, but read on. Bruce Lee, the martial arts expert died after
taking cannabis, but the death certificate was later changed too 'death
by misadventure' because of another medical herb that he took which
he did not know he was allergic too. So the correct answer is 0 people
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have died from using cannabis. (E) How do you treat cannabis
addiction? Psychotherapy is the only answer.
In fact there are absolutely no reasons for the prohibition of
cannabis, other than:
1) It is hard to tell if someone is under the influence of cannabis.
Driving/working with machinery is a problem here.
2) People might smoke too much and become a little lazy.
3) Many governments have prohibited it for over 70 years and it would
seem very stupid if they told everyone that they where wrong about it.
Now let us look at these points for a moment.
1) Yes it is hard to tell and make no mistake - if you drive after
smoking cannabis then you are just as stupid as if you where driving
under the influence of alcohol. It is never advised to use cannabis and
then perform a procedure, like driving, which requires your total
attention. As of yet there is no on the spot breathalyzer test for
cannabis use, but there are tests to determine if someone has used
cannabis recently, in the last few hours, in the last few days, weeks or
months. However, alcohol is not banned in a lot of countries but
cannabis is.
2) It happens. Some people do smoke too much pot and they become
docile to the point where they just want to watch television and eat.
However, if there is no money about, and the person needs to survive
or live somehow, you will soon find that person can restore their life
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back to the way it was before they started their cannabis binge by
simply - Not smoking for a few days. A few days of not smoking is all
it takes to rid cannabis of any effects it has had on the human body.
There may be residual cannabinoids left in the system but this does not
pose any problems and will soon wear away.
This is not that easy with alcohol or heroin user. They will
have to go through a long period of detoxification before they can
resume a normal life. A cannabis user does not have to go through the
detoxification period because there simply is none. Not only does the
alcohol user have to spend a few days getting it out of his/her system
but they will also have to deal with the withdrawal symptoms. This can
last for months. With cannabis, it is simply, stop smoking cannabis
and resume operations as normal. (Note: Pharmaceutical firms would
love to sell a pill to cure cannabis addiction, but as of yet can not. They
can not prove that their pill does anything because there are no
cannabis withdrawal systems to observe. Thus the pill would be
deemed a fraudulent product if put on the market.) Also many
homeless people's living standards in most cases are attributed to
alcohol dependence/addiction and rarely, IF ever, is their low living
standard attributed to cannabis dependence. Cannabis dependence is
psychological. Treatment of cannabis addiction is done by psychiatrists
and psychologists and GP's. Heroin and alcohol is treated by
psychiatrists, psychologists, GP's and doctors of internal medicine for
the somatic systems of addiction.
3) This is a major problem because the government may have to set
people free from prison and radically change their justice department’s
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stance on cannabis which means that jobs will be lost and revenues
(billions of this - $$$) will be lost if cannabis was decriminalized.
Cannabis prohibition is a booming industry that creates jobs and
capital. However if cannabis was decriminalized then these lost profits
could be derived from a new cannabis industry.
Probably one of the best sites for medical information is
www.cannabisx.com, www.lycaeum.org, or www.overgrow.com
One other thing to mention is that street cannabis may
contain other added drugs. In most clinical cases, a person who
complains about cannabis addiction and shows physical signs of
addiction is not actually addicted to cannabis. They are addicted to the
other drug substances that the supplier has added to his produce to
make it stronger. 100% home grown clean cannabis does not contain
physical additive properties. People who add other drugs to cannabis
are not doing the cannabis community a favor. This is a good reason to
grow your own pot.
***
There are many strains or versions of the Cannabis plant alive
today. Most strains are the result of human intervention and these are
the types you will most likely come across or even smoke. Breeders try
to produce strains that are tasty, smell good and give the user different
types of highs. These are the strains that are best looked out for
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because you can be guaranteed that the plant has got a ‘grow history’
behind it and that the seller of the seeds will know a good bit about the
plant and how it ‘works’.
This ends our brief look at the history of Cannabis. There is
much more to it than just this and many other books that discuss the
legal aspects of Marijuana go into great detail about the history of
Marijuana. In fact the history of Marijuana is so interesting and deep
that a dozen chapters here would not cover the vastness of this plant’s
background.
HOWCANNABIS IS USED
Whenever we hear the word Cannabis we think of the famous
leaf shape like the one on this book’s cover. Many magazines show
joints being rolled thick with leaves. Leaves are in fact the lesser
potent part of the plant next to the stem and the roots. The cannabis
plant can be divided into 6 main sections (Fig 1.2.). Bud, Stem,
Branches, Nodes, Leaves, and Main Cola.
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Fig 1.2 - This is a picture by BigIslandBud. Each of the parts of the
plant have been Indicated. The 3 horizontal lines on the right show 3
Node levels of branching and where they occur.
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The next thing to know is that plants have a gender. The
genders are male and female and sometimes a mix gender called the
hermaphrodite condition. Now listen to this closely.
1) The male plant is not used for smoking because it contains low
levels of THC and does not taste very good, but it can get you high.
2) The female plant when pollinated does produce THC but also
produces seeds which prevent larger quantities of bud from being
produced.
3) A non-pollinated female (sinsemilla) plant will produce more
flowering buds with no seeds and will produce more quantities of THC
than the male plant or a seeded female plant. The buds produce resin,
which contain THC, and can drip down onto the leaves. When she is
fully mature she should produce a very pleasing high depending on the
grow method, the strain of plant and when it is harvested.
To put it plainly, males can be smoked but are not very good
and are considered vastly inferior to the female plant. The female plant
when pollinated produces seeds and can be smoked but is vastly
inferior to a non-pollinated female plant (sinsemilla) that produces
more bud. It should be the goal of every Cannabis user to grow nonpollinated
female plants with big buds. The goal of a cannabis breeder
is too produce quality seeds and plants. How both these things are done
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is what this book will help you to understand.
At the end of the Cannabis plant’s life cycle the plant is
harvested. This means one of two things. The plant can be completely
uprooted and treated (called a complete harvest) or the plant can be
harvested a small bit and used again for a second flowering term (this
is called re-veging (Figure 1..3) and re-flowering).
Figure 1.3 - A plant that is being re-veged. Picture by Vic High.
When Cannabis is harvested the harvester concentrates on the
best part of the plant, namely the top cola and the buds. The leaves are
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the last thing to worry about and the stem and roots are normally
thrown away. There are many ways to harvest a plant and we will
explain it in detail, later. Once the grower has selected the parts they
want, they then set about curing their harvest (Figure 1.4). Curing
your harvest is important. It helps one to produce a finer product. After
the curing has been done the grower can then choose how he/she
wants to finally produce their smokable mix (figure 1.5). They can use
the cured plant as it is and smoke it dry or they can produce hash or
oils from the curing process.
Figure 1.4 - This is a picture of some cured buds.
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Figure 1.5 - This is the result of a good indoor harvest.
Both Pictures by Kryptonite.
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Figure 1.6 - This is a picture of an indoor garden from Kryptonite.
SPECIES
The next thing one should know about are the different types
of Cannabis species. There are 3 main species of Cannabis plants.
These are Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis. Each species has its own group
of strains which are many. Each species has different characteristics
and each strain of each species has its own special identity.
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Figure 1.7 - Picture of Sativa leaf by Slowhand.
SATIVA:
Height - Can grow tall. Averages anywhere between, 4 - 15 feet.
Nodes - Has long internodes between branches, 3 inches to 6.
Leaf - Pointy leaves with no markings or patterns.
Figure 1.8 - Indica Leaf picture by Kryptonite.
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INDICA:
Height - Small plants. Averages anywhere between 6 inches - 4 feet.
Nodes - Short internodes between branches. 3 inches and less.
Leaf - Rounded leaves with marble like patterns.
Figure 1.9 - This is a picture of some Ruderalis / Indica hybrids from
Sensi Seeds. www.sensiseeds.com
RUDERERALIS:
Height - Small plants. Averages anywhere between 6 inches and 4 feet.
Nodes - very short internodes with much branching.
Leaf - Small and thick.
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THC
Cannabis plants produce psychoactive ingredients called
cannabinoids. The main ingredient of the cannabinoids that gives the
high effect is called - delta 9 THC. All strains vary in THC levels that
come in different percentages. Some plants may contain 100% THC
but the "levels" of THC may be low. Other plants have only 60% THC,
but the "levels" of THC may be very high. A good potent plant will
have both levels and quantities very high. Cannabis plants also
produce something called - delta 8 THC. This ingredient is in low
levels but does contribute to the high. When we mention THC levels,
we are talking about both delta 8 and 9 THC.
There are also other ingredients that add to the high such as
CBD, CBN, THCV, CBDV, CDC and CBL, but are only very minor
compared to THC.
The difference between THC levels and THC quantities is that
THC levels are genetic. They are not under the influence of the
grower. THC quantities on the other hand are. This is to do with bud
mass and how much resin can be generated in that bud mass.
Some bud may only contain 20% THC, with a THC level of 5.
The same plant grown under better conditions and light will produce
70% THC, with a THC level of 5. The ‘5’ is genetic. The quantities of
20% and 70% are under the grower’s control.
When examining a strain in a seed-bank catalogue one is
guided to check for the THC levels of that plant to understand how
potent the plant is. Many seed sellers and breeders measure their
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plants THC levels and give accounts on how much THC their plants
have. Of course many breeders like to exaggerate on how much THC
their plants produce, but some do not. If you wish to know more about
THC levels it is best to consult your seed-bank or breeder for details.
No complete study of cannabinoids has been made public
since this book’s publication. This is because cross breeding produces
so many different results that it is hard to keep track on what is
happening. Some 'old timer' strains are still around and have been
tested. This information can be obtained from the larger seed
production companies in Holland. THC testing is also an expensive
process that requires heavy amounts of research.
The other interesting factor is that some plants do not produce
any THC at all. These plants have been genetically engineered (GM)
to produce very low levels of THC and are mainly used by farmers in
some countries who have permission to grow cannabis for hemp
production ONLY. It is best to keep away from these seeds and strains.
They will not get you high. There is project called the PMP (potency
monitoring project) that is carried out by some government-funded
agencies, but the results are questionable.
ZERO ZERO
The other thing that may interest you is that Cannabis can be
cured in various forms and one of these popular forms is HASHISH
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(Figure 1.10).
Figure 1.10 - This is some raw hash extraction by Kryptonite. This
hash is pure without any additives.
Hashish can also be graded and one of the most famous
grades of Hashish is called Zero Zero. Hashish making (Figure 1.11)
can improve (but sometimes degrade) the overall potency of marijuana.
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The grades of Hashish are as follows. 00(zero zero), 0, 1, 2, 3. Zero
Zero is by far the most purest form of Hashish on the market today and
comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a
good Hash making technique. Sometimes the technique may be good
but the levels of THC in the plant are low. This may produce a grade
such as a 2 or a 3.
It is wise to note that the Potency of a plant depends on a
number of factors. It should be the goal of every grower to produce a
potent, high grade, product. Zero Zero is also a 'western' concept
derived from hash types that come from Morocco.
Figure 1.11 - This picture shows some hash being made. The powderlike
substance is the collection of trichomes from the plant. This
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powder will eventually be solidified to make a bar of hash.
Photograph by Chimera.
RESIN
Female plants produce resin glands (Figure 1.12 and 1.14).
Some of these glands may have lots of resin but are not very potent.
Other plants may have little resin but are very potent. Optimal growth
gives rise to a plant that has lots of resin and is very potent. Resin
glands are produced all over the female flowers and new leaves. They
can be seen clearly with the use of a magnifying aid. These resin
glands are correctly called Trichomes.
Figure 1.12 - This picture is a macro shot of some trichomes as they
look on the plant. Notice the ball shaped tips. These contain
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cannabinoids. Photograph by Joop Jumas.
Figure 1.13 - This flowering female is covered in Trichomes. That is
what gives this bud her frosty look. Picture by Chimera.
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Resin can be rubbed off the bud using the fingers and then
rolled into the palms to create small balls of hand rubbed hashish. It is
within these glands that one is to find the main concentration of
produced cannabinoids and THC. When a plant is in full flowering the
resin gland can explode or break dropping resin down onto the leaves
below. This can also give the leaves their shiny frosty potent look
during flowering. Towards the bottom of the plant are located the fan
leaves. These leaves are generally large and collect most of the light
for plant growth. Because these leaves are far away from the top of the
plant, which produce the most amount of resin glands and buds, they
collect the least amount of resin and are not very potent. It is best to
consider separating these fan leaves from the rest of the plant after
harvest because these leaves will not give you the best quality high.
Figure 1.14 - Trichomes Photograph by Joop Jumas.
45
THE HIGH
We should now have an idea as to what we are looking for in
terms of a good quality smoke. We are looking for non-pollinated
female plants that have flowered, producing lots of buds with resin
glands that contain high levels and amounts of THC. We are also
looking for plants that have been well cured and processed in a way
that allows us to sample the full flavor, smell and taste of the plant.
One must also be aware that some plants are very potent and can
literally knock one’s socks off. This is where taste comes into play.
Some people like plants that give a head high but do not cause one to
fall asleep. Other people like plants that give a down effect and cause
the body to become less responsive to stimuli. The body down is called
‘The couch-lock effect’. The head high is simply called ‘The head
high.’
Now another thing must be considered here. Remember that
we talked about Species of Cannabis - Sativa, Indica and Rudereralis?
Well Rudereralis is hardly used much today. Sativa and Indica are
extremely common and these 2 species will be the main focus of this
book. Also both species have two different forms of high. The high
type of each species can also be controlled depending on the time at
which you harvest. Not only this but the species can be crossed to
produce Indica/Sativa type plants or Sativa/Indica type plants. This
may sound all very confusing at first, but it is in fact all quite simple.
We will explain more about this in our next chapter.
46
Chapter 2
SEEDS
Figure 2.1 - Some cannabis seeds by Kryptonite.
At the moment there are approximately 450 seed varieties of
Cannabis on the market today. Out of the 450 seed varieties, 200 are
worth looking at and out of the 200 varieties about 50 or so are
outstanding. Each strain is either a pure species type (taking 2 plants
of the same species and crossing them) or a crossbreed of two or more
species (taking 2 plants from different species and crossing them).
Out of the 450 seed varieties we said that 200 where good.
This leaves 250 left. Those 250 are usually very unstable crossbreed
strains. These complete hybrids plants are mixed so much that they
can not be classified at either Sativa or Indica. They are classified in a
different way and we will explain this in the strain format table below.
47
Most hybrids do not last long on the market and are primarily
found only among breeders who are experimenting with their plant’s
genetics. Seed producers tend to only produce the following strain
categories. Some Hybrids can be excellent though!
PURE SATIVA (This is a pure species)
SATIVA (This is a mostly Sativa species with some Indica)
PURE INDICA (This is a pure species)
INDICA (This is a mostly Indica species with some Sativa)
INDICA/SATIVA (This is a 50/50 cross between a Sativa and an
Indica species)
They also produce:
RUDERALIS (This is a pure species)
And some other Ruderalis mixes. However Ruderalis is a
problematic plant. It does not produce large quantities of THC, nor
does it flower like the other varieties. Ruderalis is considered substandard
by most growers because it flowers according to age and does
not flower according to the photoperiod. We will explain what the
photoperiod is in a moment.
Now remember that we said an Indica/Sativa cross would
produce two different highs. Well we lied a little. If they are both
50%/50% crosses then the high will be a 50%/50% mix. Indica/Sativa
and Sativa/Indica is really the same thing.
48
Pure Sativa is a total ‘Head High’. Pure Indica is a total ‘Body
Stone/couch-lock’. A 50/50 cross will give a 50% ‘Head high’ and a
50% ‘Body Stone’. If an Indica plant is crossed slightly with a Sativa
plant it will give a 60% ‘Body Stone’ and a 40%‘Head High’. A Sativa
plant that is crossed slightly with an Indica plant will give a 60%
‘Head High’ and a 40% ‘Body Stone’. The 60/40 ratio is most
common but some breeders can change that ratio. When choosing a
seed, check to see if it is pure or if it has a ratio. Most seed sellers will
have this listed along with their seed type. So when we look at some
strains that are crossbreeds we must understand which species the
plants are leaning towards. Along with the cross you can expect that
the plant will look different. Some Sativa plants may be shorter
because of the Indica breeding in them and some Indica plants may be
taller because of the Sativa breeding in them. This is okay though
because later on we will find that as a grower we have control over
how a plant will look and grow. As a grower we can influence height
and plant features. We can also harvest the plant in such a way that we
can produce a different high type. The later you harvest the plant the
more you will help produce a couch-lock effect. Harvesting just before
peak will induce a cerebral high. If you are working with strains that
are for either cerebral or couch-lock highs then you can harvest early
or later and help produce some of these ‘high type’ properties.
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Figure 2.2 - This is a wonderful harvest picture by GIYO.
50
Hopefully with the knowledge you have been given so far you
are equipped to choose a plant that fits your needs in terms of height,
potency and high type. There is no point trying to grow an 8-foot
Sativa Bush indoors if you do not have the space for it. 2 foot Indica
plants outdoors may not survive if other plants compete with it for
light. As a rule we can always shorten the plants lengths through
pruning, but rarely can we double the plants height if the strain's genes
only allow the strain to grow 2 or 3 feet.
Figure 2.3 - A small grow room by Mr.Zog.
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HOWTO GET SEEDS
The best way to get seeds is from a friend who has grown a
type of plant that you enjoyed to smoke. This, by far, is the best way
because, (1) You will get the seeds for free and (2) you know what the
high type will be because you have already tasted it.
The next best way is the Internet. The Internet is full of seedbanks
that wish to sell you seeds, but there are a few problems that you
may encounter. The first problem is that some of these seed-banks will
rip you off. The second is that some of these seed-banks do not ship
worldwide. The third is that some of these seed-banks misrepresent
their stock. The fourth is that seeds can be very expensive. Some seedbanks
sell seeds anywhere between (US Dollars = $, UK Sterling = £)
$80/£70 and $300/£290 for 10 - 16 seeds. There are rip-off artists out
there, but then again some of these seeds are worth the money because
the strain is excellent in vigor and production. So how do we choose
our seed-bank and how do we really know what seeds to pick?
CHOOSING A SEED-BANK
As a rule if you find a classy seed-bank then you will find
classy breeders using that seed-bank to sell their seeds. If you find a
seed-bank then the first thing you should do is to examine what people
have to say about that seed-bank. The best way to find this out is to
check one of the more popular websites on the net like
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www.cannabisx.com or www.yahooka.com. Some web sites give
listings and ratings on seed-banks.
You can also do a search on the net using a search engine like
AltaVista or Yahoo. Find a good web site that is used by a number of
people and not a web site that is used by one person. A community of
users is a good place to go for message board forums and chat. Also
check to see that the site has a registered URL, like a .com site. If they
use a free web site service then consider staying clear of it because it
can disappear without trace overnight. Once you have found a web site
then run a search on 'seeds'. A listing may appear of all known seedbanks
that deal over the Internet. It is best then to check out the
reviews on each seed-bank by the public. A good one is
www.yahooka.com or www.cannabisx.com. This gives the latest
update on each seed-bank and gives them a review out of 5. Find the
URL of each seed-bank and check out the prices. Some seed-banks do
deals on seeds and you will find that prices do change from bank to
bank. The next thing you do before buying anything is to send the web
master an E-mail. Ask him/her about their services, what seeds you
like, how they delivers, security arrangement, and if they can deliver to
your country. In some countries seeds are legal. In others they are not.
Wait until they give you a reply. If you do not get a reply then do not
use that seed-bank. These people are salesmen and should
communicate with you and answer all your questions. Also ask how
the money should be sent and ask about postage and packaging. Most
seed-banks sell their seeds in batches of 10 - 20. This means that you
will get 10 - 20 seeds in the post. Anything can happen. A misplaced
53
foot in the postal office can kill the seeds, making them not viable.
Good seed-banks provide good packaging. Ask about it.
If your seeds do not arrive send an E-mail to the seed-bank
and ask them what happened. If they do NOT reply or if your seeds are
lost write them a complaint and then post that complaint in one of the
web boards like yahooka.com. The more people complain the better the
chances of indicating seed-banks that are ripping people off. Also if
you get your seeds in good condition then it is always wise to post a
good review of that seed-bank. This will also improve your
communication with that seed-bank the next time you buy seeds (you
may get discounts). If you do not have access to the web then you will
have to get addresses for these seed-banks and send them a letter
asking for further information. Some seed-banks have even advertised
in the back of this book.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN CHOOSING SEEDS
Okay, so now you have an idea of what type of plant you want
and the seed-bank that you are going to use. The next step is too check
if the seeds are for indoor or outdoor use. There is a saying that all
cannabis seeds can be grown indoors and outdoor. This is true, but that
is not what the breeder had intended. If the breeder had created a plant
that does well indoors then it is suggested that you only grow these
seeds indoors. If you grow outdoors and the plant does not produce
that well, then you know that you should have followed the breeder’s
advice. Next time take that advice. There is nothing stopping you from
54
experimenting, and some growers have produced excellent results by
putting outdoor seeds indoors or putting indoor seeds outdoors, but it is
best if you follow the advice you are given, especially if you are new to
growing.
Figure 2.4 - Outdoor Sativa.
55
Figure 2.5 - Indoor Sativa.
Both of these pictures, figure 2.4 and 2.5, show a mostly
Sativa strain growing outdoors and indoors. As you can see this would
probably be labeled an outdoor strain because of its size. The grower,
mullummadman, has been able to grow it both ways though.
You may also find that a number of similar strains have been
produced by different breeders. When you look at the seed-bank list
you may see 1 - 4 types of the same plant. What is going on here you
ask? Well, let us take Skunk#1 for example. Skunk#1 is a mostly
Sativa plant but there are about 7 breeders who have provided a certain
56
seed-bank with these seeds. Each seed breeder tries to develop the best
plant possible for that strain type. You will find that some breeders are
good and others are not so good. Make sure that you check with the
seed-bank to see which breeder's strains are the best. Always choose
the best. The reason for choosing the best is that later you can
PRODUCE YOUR OWN SEED from that strain! Welcome to the
wonderful world of Marijuana growing.
Search for Serious Seeds and Paradise Seeds on the internet. They are
both Dutch seed companies.
The next thing to look for is flowering times. Each strain is a
bit different on flowering times. In a nutshell flowering is the next
cycle after your plant shows its sex. There are 3 main stages in plant
growth. Germination, Vegetative growth and Flowering. It is towards
the last days of flowering that you should begin your harvest. If the
seed-bank says, Skunk#1 Flowering time: 7-9 weeks then you should
be able to know roughly when your plant will be ready for harvest (in
this case it will 7 - 9 weeks from the time your plant starts to flower).
Some plants have shorter flowering times and others have
longer. This is a guide to help you understand how long it will take,
after vegetative growth is complete, before you will have a chance to
savior your plant’s delights. The last piece of advice is this. Always
consult someone about your strain type. Who knows, they may be able
to recommend something better.... Or maybe even have a private seed
stash of their own.
57
Figure 2.6 - This is some Skunk#1 by Strawdog.
58
Figure 2.7 - Seeds enough to grow a 1000 plants! Picture by
Kryptonite.
59
Figure 2.8 - This is another great picture of some female bud by
Kryptonite.
60
GROWING FACTORS
This is important to bear in mind before you grow your weed.
Have you got the time to take care of your plants? Are you going to be
taking long holidays? Have you got someone you trust to take care of
your plants? And if you do how secure is your grow area? How do the
people you live with feel about this? Can you hide the smell when the
plants start to flower? Are you prepared to pay money on lights and
other grow items? Are you prepared to pay the costs of a higher
electricity bill? Are people going to see your grow room? Are people
going to walk past your grow site outdoors? Is the meter man going to
see your grow room? Is the gas man going to see your grow room? Are
you sure that you really want to do this?
Figure 2.9 - This is an example of how some outdoor plants can get
61
really big and tall. Sometimes they can be hard to hide. Picture by
Mullummadman.
If you are negative on any of these points above then I suggest
that you resolve those issues before you move on.
The next thing I am going to tell you is the most important
thing you will ever hear when growing marijuana. People have lived
their whole lives growing cannabis and have never had an encounter
with the law. It is so simple, but very hard to do. If you can do it then
you are halfway to being an expert grower. Are you ready for it?
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NEVER TELL ANYONE THAT YOU ARE GROWING
CANNABIS!
63
If you do this then you will never have a problem other than
someone accidentally walking into your grow area. NEVER EVER
TELL ANYONE ANYTHING, EVER. If you can do this then you will
have more security than a castle equipped with guard-dogs henchmen
and the works. Loose lips cause 99.9% of all security related issues
being breached. 00.1% is caused because you did not take the time out
to conceal your area well enough. Loose lips sink ships.
If you plan to share your crop with your friends then do it by
another means, like - ‘Hey guys look what I just bought’. The only
people who should know that you grow are the people who live with
you. If your husband/wife has loose lips, then maybe you should
consider guerrilla growing outdoors (explained later.) Other than that,
these are the most important factors you need to consider. Never grow
at home if other people are not going to know about it. This is bad and
always causes problems in the end. So what does that say? Growing on
your own is the best way. Growing with other people is a problem
unless you know they are okay with it. You will have to figure some of
these things out for yourself.
The next factor is bugs and pests. Always, always have a
bottle of pesticide that kills SPIDER MITES. Spider Mites can reduce
your plants to garbage within a couple of days.
NEVER EVER BRING A PLANT INSIDE THAT HAS BEEN
OUTSIDE. People who have done this have managed to kill nearly
every plant in their house because they brought a plant indoors that
had spider mites. Marijuana plants are very vulnerable to mite attacks
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because the spider mites love to suck marijuana plants dry. They are
tiny, about half the size of this dot --->> . I can not stress how
important this is. We will talk more about pests later.
The next thing we will talk about is what we expect our seeds
to do before they become full flowering plants.
Figure 2.10 - This is example of what pest damage can do to your
crop. Notice how the leaf has been eaten away. Picture by Slowhand.
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THE LIFE CYCLE OF THE MARIJUANA PLANT
Figure 2.11 - Another wonderful bud shot from Chimera.
We said before that a plant would grow in three main stages.
Germination, Vegetative growth and flowering. Plants actually grow
in 6 stages. Here is the life cycle of the cannabis plant.
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Germination:
This is the initial stage of growth and occurs when your
seed’s embryo cracks open and the seedling produces a root. This root
fixes itself into the soil and pushes the newborn seeding up and over
the soil surface. Following surface contact two embryonic leaves open
outwards to receive sunlight, pushing the empty seed shell away from
the seedling. It takes anywhere between 12 hours to 3 weeks for seeds
to germinate. Once the plant has reached this stage it goes into the
seedling stage.
Figure 2.12 - This is a great picture of an
Indica seedling by Strawdog.
Seedling Stage:
After the first pair of embryonic leaves are receiving light
(Figure 2.12), the plant will begin to produce another small set of new
67
leaves. These leaves are different from the last and may have some
Marijuana characteristics such as the three-rounded finger shaped
points. As the seedling grows, more of these leaves are formed and
bush upwards along with a stem. Some stems are very weak at this
stage and need the support of a small thin wooden stake tied to the
seedling with some fine thread. The seedling stage can last between 1
and 3 weeks. At the end of the seedling stage your plant will have
maybe 4 - 8 new leaves. Some of the old bottom leaves may drop off.
Figure 2.13 - Here is a picture of a cannabis plant in vegetative
68
growth. This picture is from GIYO.
Vegetative Growth:
The plant now begins to grow at the rate which its leaves can
produce energy. At this stage the plant needs all the light and food it
can get. It will continue to grow upwards producing new leaves as it
moves along (Figure 2.13). It will also produce a thicker stem with
thicker branches and with more fingers on the leaves. It will eventually
start to show its sex. When it does this it is time for the plant’s preflowering
stage. It can take anywhere between 1 and 5 months for the
plant to hit this next stage.
Pre-flowering:
At this stage the plant slows down in developing its height
and starts to produce more branches and nodes. The plant fills out in
the pre-flowering stage. During this phase of the plant cycle your plant
will start to show a calyx which appears where the branches meet the
stem (nodes). Pre-flowering can take anywhere between 1 day to 2
weeks. (See last page of this book for pre-flowering/calyx illustration)
69
Figure 2.14 - This is a great picture of a flowering plant. It should be
indicated here that this plant is a female. Picture by GIYO.
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Flowering:
During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will show its
sex clearly. The male plant produces little balls that are clustered
together like grapes. The female plant produces little white/cream
pistils that look like hairs coming out of a pod. Each of the plants will
continue to fill out more and their flowers will continue to grow. It can
take anywhere between 4 to 16 weeks for the plant to fully develop its
flowers (Figure 2.14). During this time the male’s pollen sacks would
have burst spreading pollen to the female flowers.
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Figure 2.15 - Seeded bud picture
by Shecky Greene.
72
Seed:
The female plant will produce seeds at this point if she has received
viable pollen from a male plant. The seeds grow within the female bud
and can take anywhere between 2 weeks to 16 weeks, to grow to full
maturity. The female pistils may change color before finally bursting
the seedpods, sending them to the soil below. (Breeders like to collect
their seeds before the seedpods burst.)
These are the six stages of the life cycle of a cannabis plant. It
is important to know that if the males are separated from the females
and killed off then the females will not become pollinated. Let us go
back a step and describe what happens here.
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FLOWERING NON-POLLINATED FEMALES
(SINSEMILLA CROP)
Figure 2.16 - This is some bud by Giyo. The picture is upside down
because it is freshly harvested bud strung up.
During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will
show its sex more clearly. The female plant produces little
74
creamy/white pistils. The plant will continue to fill out more and its
flowers will continue to grow. It can take anywhere between 4 and 16
weeks for the plants to fully develop. During this time though there are
no males to pollinate the female plants. The buds will grow larger and
develop more resin glands. Resin may drop down onto the leaves and
the plant becomes very sticky. The pistils on the buds begin to get
thicker and cluster into balls. The reason for the high increase in bud
growth is that the female plant is trying her best to attract male pollen.
Towards the last days of flowering the pistils will change color
Indicating that the plant is ready for harvest.
CYCLE TIMES
Given the above data it can take anywhere between 10 weeks
and 36 weeks for a plant to grow to maturity. That is, again, anywhere
between 2.5 months to 9 months. The most common grow time is 3 to
4 months. All this is dependent on the strain that you choose. Pure
Sativa can run anywhere into the 6 - 9 month bracket. Indica can
flower in 6 weeks. As you can image a Sativa/Indica plant will fall into
the 2 - 4 month flowering period.
75
Figure 2.17 - Seeded bud picture by Shecky Greene.
76
Figure 2.18 - Great bushy plant picture by X3n0.
77
Chapter 3
PROPAGATION
What is propagation?
Propagation: 1 The action of breeding or multiplying by natural
processes; procreation, generation, reproduction. 2 The action of
spreading an idea, practice, etc., from place to place. 3 Increase in
amount or extent; enlargement; extension in space or time.
Propagation is 'The Grow'. However most people treat
propagation as the actual events occurring between the planting of the
seed and the transplant of that seedling to the main grow environment.
Here we will treat propagation as the entire process of growing from
seed to harvest. Propagation also includes the logistics of the grow.
So what are you going to do? Are you going to buy a batch of
10 seeds and grow them all in one go? Are you going to then kill the
males and just smoke the females? Are you going to keep the males
and produce more seeds from the females? How many seeds can a
female plant produce? Should I plant my 10 seeds in one go? What
should I do to guarantee that all my seeds will grow? These are the
questions that you should be asking before you begin to grow and this
is where propagation logistics comes into play. The answers depend
largely on the size of your grow area and what your budget is.
Let’s say we have about $200/£180 to spend on seeds. We can
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buy an expensive strain like a G13 cross and then we can grow the
G13 and produce more seeds from it. We can get anything between
100 and 2000 seeds depending on plant size and grow conditions. If
we grow this season for 4 months and at the end produce a lot of seeds
then we may never need to buy seeds for this strain again.
There is something else we can do called - CLONING.
Figure 3.1 - Here are some clones by Slowhand.
This is a technique whereby we can grow a number of plants
and select a good female. Then we can take cuttings from that female
mother plant and grow these cuttings into new plants. Clones always
keep the same sex and vigor of the mother plant. It is also possible to
79
create a garden of plants that will last for decades through cloning
from a single female mother plant. Cloning is discussed in detail in a
later chapter
For the new grower it is advised that you buy 10 seeds and
only germinate 3 the first time followed by another 3 the following
week followed by the last 4 in two weeks after that. This will allow you
some degree of experimentation as you may fail on your first attempt
to germinate the seeds because of lack of any previous cannabis
growing experience.
For people who have germinated seeds once before in the
past, it is advised that you germinate 5 followed by another 5 the next
week. If you are a long time grower with a good amount of growing
experience then you can germinate all 10 in one go. Again you do not
have to do it this way. It just helps reduce the risk of failing all the
seeds because of bad germination methods.
During your plants growth you may decide that you want to
pollinate ONLY ONE of your females. This means that you need to
have two grow areas. One for growing all your female plants and
another for growing a single or more females mixed in with some
males. As we said before this depends on how much grow space you
have and how much money you want to spend. It is important that
your pollination room is kept well away from your female grow room.
Pollen can travel by air and it is advised that the two areas are kept
well apart. Also bees and other insects can spread pollen. Not only that
but you can too. Always wash your hands and face after handling a
male plant. This saves problems of pollen from a male plant getting
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onto a female that you wish to keep for sinsemilla.
Figure 3.2 - Pollen from the male plant can be collected by shaking it
over a clean surface such as a sheet of glass. The pollen can then be
swept up by using a credit card. If you gather it in a piece of paper
like this then you can........
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Figure 3.3 - .....Store male pollen in a test tube like this. If
kept out of the light pollen can keep for a long time. You can use this
pollen to make seeds from a female plant by sprinkling some of the
pollen onto the female flowers. Photography film canisters also make
great pollen storage units. Both picture by Slowhand.
82
Figure 3.4 - This is a great picture of an indoor grow room by GIYO.
The light hanging down over the plants is a HPS light. It gives off an
orange glow to the grow room.
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So being logical we can see that we have paid a bit of money
for 10 seeds and that we want to get 100% germination results. The
following passages will tell you how to achieve that success rate.
WAYS TO GERMINATE YOUR SEEDS
Seeds can be germinated in a number of ways. Some ways
guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you
consider the 'rockwool SBS propagation tray' method.
Figure 3.5 - Germination picture by BushyOlderGrower.
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Seed soil propagation:
This is a method whereby the seeds are placed down in moist
soil about 3mm or the length of the seed from the surface. The soil is
kept moist (Not soaking wet) by sprinkling water over it once a day.
This has a moderate success rate. Out of 10 seeds only 7 - 8 may
germinate.
Seed towel propagation:
Figure 3.6 - This is an example of some seeds that have germinated.
This method is the towel germination method. Picture by Kryptonite.
This is a method whereby the seeds are placed either on a
damp towel or on a damp piece of cotton wool. Cheesecloth may also
85
be used. The seed is then covered with more damp wool or a damp
towel. The towel/wool must be kept moist at all times. If the material
dries out it may damage the seeds. Everyday check to see if the seeds
have started to produce any roots. If they have then immediately
transfer the seedling to a grow medium (such as soil) using a pair of
tweezers. Do not touch the root. This has a moderate to high success
rate. Out of 10 seeds 8 - 9 may germinate. The problem with this
method is that sometimes the transplant can cause the seedling to go
into shock. This can kill the germination process leaving you with
nothing. With practice you can get all your seeds to germinate.
Propagation kits:
This is a method whereby the seeds are placed in small unit,
called a seed or clone propagator, which is designed to help plants
germinate. One such kit is called a rockwool SBS Propagation Tray.
Some of these kits can be heated and look like a miniature greenhouse.
At the bottom of the tray is a small area where water, or even better
‘some germination hormone’ is poured. Small grow cubes called
rockwool cubes are placed into slots in the tray, which automatically
dips the rockwool into the solution (Figure 3.8). The seeds are placed
into tiny holes in the cubes and the cover is then put back on the unit.
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Figure 3.7 - Propagation kit and Clones by Strawdog.
This has a very high success rate. All the seeds can sometimes
germinate and in most cases often do. The disadvantage to this method
is that you need to spend money on the tray, rockwool and grow
fertilizers. The price of the tray is about $10/£10, the rockwool cubes
$5/£5, the grow fertilizers $5/£5. If you have spent $50/£50 on seeds
then why not spend the extra $20/£20 on getting a small kit together
like this. The other advantage is that you can use this same tray to help
root your clones.
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Figure 3.8 - Overhead shot of some seedlings germinating in
rockwool. Picture by Shecky Greene.
DANGERS WHEN PROPAGATING SEEDS
Drafts are a killer and will stunt germination. Always make
sure that you keep your germinating seeds away from any open
windows or fans. Also make sure that the room is kept warm. A cold
room can inhibit your germination rates. The other thing to look out
for when using germination fertilizers is to make sure that your
mixture is correct. Do not use high doses of fertilizers with seedlings.
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In fact water is all seedlings should need. You do not need to add
anything. Some people do use germination solutions though, but make
sure that you keep these solution strengths down low. An incorrect
mixture can burn your seedlings and cause them to fail. Another thing
to do is to leave your seeds alone to grow. Do not go fiddling with
them, hence the term ‘digging up your seeds’. Some people tend to
disturb the soil to see how their seeds are doing. This is a bad move
and can break or even damage the seed and root. The other thing to
keep in mind is that some strains produce seedlings that have weak
stems. This means that the seedling may tend to lean, sometime more
than 90 degrees, to the left or right. If you find that your seedlings
need support then use a small stick to hold your seedling up. Tie the
stem to the stick using a piece of thread. Never tie the thread above a
growing shoot or the seedling will push up against the thread and rip
itself. You may continue to use a stick to support your plant as it
grows. If your plant still has a weak stem during vegetative growth it is
recommended that you give the base of the stem a little shake every
morning and evening. This will help the plant to develop a more solid
stem. Outdoors the wind shakes a plant and causes it to develop this
solid stem. You can fake the wind by doing this mildly every morning
for two or three seconds. However if you read on you will find that
indoor fans help do this. (Note: Never bring a stick from outdoors
indoors for support as the stick may have some bugs on it. Some bugs
such as spider mites can go undetected in their incubation nests inside
the wood.)
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Seeds must also be viable if they are going to germinate.
Never use white seeds. These are immature. Find seeds that have white
and grey markings or another color apart from white.
Crushed seeds will also not germinate. Old seeds may have
trouble germinating. Always try to use the best seeds you can find.
TRANSPLANTING
During the stages between germination and vegetative growth
the grower may find that he/she needs a bigger pot. Transplanting is
done nearly always as early as possible. One example of a transplant is
when the seedlings are ready in their rockwool SBS tray. The seedling
is lifted from the tray along with the rockwool cube and placed in
another grow medium such as soil, or maybe even a hydroponics setup
(more about hydroponics later). That is called a transplant. There is
not much of problem when transferring the cube and seedling to the
soil. Just dig a small hole in the soil for the cube and place it in. Cover
the cube with soil. The cube will not effect your plant’s growth and
will add support if anything.
If you have started your seedlings in soil then you may want
to transplant the plant to a bigger pot. The problem with transplanting
is that people like to move the soil and roots along with the plant from
one pot to another. This means that the plant must be lifted out with
the soil in place. How is this done? Well there are two ways. The first
way is that one does not need to remove the plant from the smaller pot
at all. All you have to do is cut away the base of the small pot and
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place this pot into the bigger pot of soil. The roots will grow down
through the bottom hole of the old pot and into the new one. The roots
will always find their way down. The other way is too make sure that
the soil is very dry. Delay watering your plant for a couple of days and
let the soil settle hard. Then you can use a clean knife to cut around
the inside of the pot. Cut deep, but do not damage the roots. When you
have done this push your fingers down into the side and lift the plant
and soil out. You will have some breakaway soil but this does not
matter as long there is not too much of it lost. Quickly place the plant
into the larger pot and fill with soil. Give your plant some water so
that it will take to the new soil. Never ever try to lift your plant by the
stem. Even though the stem may look safe and strong this nearly
always causes problems down the line. You should always have a firm
grip of the soil when transplanting. Some people like to clean the
roots, but I would not recommend it for cannabis. If your soil is very
compact you may be able to turn the pot upside down and tap the
whole medium out as one solid mass.
During some transplants the cannabis plant may go into
shock, even if your transplant was clean and perfect. If you have kept
your plant well it should survive. If the plant has not been looked after
it may fail quickly. A good grower always takes care of his/her plants.
Transplant shock is caused by a disturbance of the roots. If the roots
are cut or fall down, the plant does not respond well to this. This is
why you must always make sure that you keep a firm hold of the soil
during transplants. Also refrain from feeding them for 1 week if you
can. There are some transplant feeding products that work as
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hormones out there and you may wish to have a look at those.
GERMINATION SOIL
There are many soils out there that advertise themselves as
germination soils. They basically are the same as any other soil except
they contain micronutrients and are kept somewhat 'clean' (the soil is
sifted and no compost is added). Ordinary loam soil with a pH of 7 and
an NPK of higher or equal amounts of N than P or K is good for
starting seeds in. Even the ratios of NPK @ 5:1:1 or 8:4:4 are good.
Just make sure that the N is equal too or higher than the P and K
factors on the label. More about soil later.
INDOOR AND OUTDOOR GROWING
We are now coming to the first core divide in growing
marijuana. At this stage you should now know something about the
History of Cannabis, How it is smoked, Cannabis Species, The
Cannabis High, Seeds, How to choose and obtain seeds, Grow factors,
The life cycle of the plant, Propagation, Germination and
Transplanting. Now all these things are generally pre-production
methods except for Transplanting. You are about to take your seedling
and put it into your main grow area. This means that for the next 3 - 9
months your plant is going to be located in a certain environment.
That environment is either indoors or outdoors. So let us talk about
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each in brief for a moment.
GENERAL INDOOR GROWING
Figure 3.9 - Indoor Grow room picture by Shipperke.
Light is the most important factor next to choosing your
strain that you must consider. There are two main ways to light your
plants indoors - Natural light and artificial light. Both ways have
advantages and disadvantages.
The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce
bigger flowers (more bud) than natural window light. This means you
get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural
sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have hot sun for 6 months of
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the year you can still find it hard to produce big buds indoors under
natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window
that they open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as
much as you would get using an artificial light system. The other side
of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights
are a little bit expensive to buy and use. They are definitely not as
expensive as it is to run an electric cooker 24 hours a day but they are
little expensive to use all the same.
Figure 3.10 - The Sun. Picture by Inf3cted.
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When using a window grow try to place your plant near a
window that gets the most sunlight. Sun comes up in east and sets in
the west. It travels more north or south depending on which side of the
equator you are. Think about it for awhile. Also remember that you
have the seasons to think about. If you plan on a window grow try to
establish when you want your plant to receive most of its light. You
want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the
best month for sunlight then you may consider producing your
seedling back in April or May or even as early as late March. Try to
guess when you will get the best weather. Coordinate this with the
flowering times directed by the breeder and you will be able to foresee
your harvest time.
Also remember that people can look up and see your plant if
they are sitting near the window. Do people come to wash your
windows? Also remember that if you have a Sativa plant then they will
get big. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing
your plants with natural sunlight indoors.
If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part
of a room that you wish to use such as an attic, closet, basement, spare
bathroom or hot press. These locations nearly always need artificial
light. You may even decide to build a cabinet yourself. There are many
ways to set-up an indoor grow room. We will discuss this later in
detail.
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Figure 3.11 - Indoor Grow room. Picture by Kryptonite.
GENERAL OUTDOOR GROWING AND GUERRILLA
FARMING
Outdoor growing is growing on your own property outdoors.
Guerrilla farming is growing away from your property in public areas
or on someone else’s property. For this part we will talk a bit about
both.
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Figure 3.12 - Outdoor Grow. Picture by Mullummadman.
The biggest problem with outdoor growing is keeping your
grow area secure and private. Some people will rip-off your plant in a
second if they see what you have (Figures 3.13 and 3.14). Others will
just create trouble for you. Security is vital. I once heard about a small
hippy community who lived near a forest here and grew their
marijuana near a stream. They eventually had to stop growing as their
plants where being ripped-off by the locals in the town nearby. It also
must be understood that the thieves where not just teenagers either.
Adults will do this too. In some cases where the cannabis industry is
booming, rippers are professionals and this is their main source of
financial income.
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Figure 3.13 - This is a picture of an Outdoor grow that has been
ripped off. The smaller image shows a picture of the plant before it
was ripped off. Picture by Slowhand.
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Figure 3.14 - This is another shot of a grow area that has been ripped
off. As you can see rippers are without mercy. They would not even
leave a little bit of branching so that the grower could take cuttings
from his plant. Picture by Slowhand.
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The best way to conceal an outdoor garden is to grow the
Cannabis plants among other plants that will mask the cannabis. The
other way is too grow the plants is inside a brick cubicle with a sheet
of glass on top. Some of you may have the advantage of living out of
town and have gardens in which this kind of stuff can be constructed.
Hide your crop well. Everybody does not easily spot marijuana but
someone who is trained to watch out for this plant will see it right
away for what it is. If you feel that unwanted people may see your
grow area then you might want to invest in some form of a greenhouse
that has the windows painted white but the top glass left clear. The
white walls will help reflect the direct sunlight coming down around
your plants.
Guerrilla growing is hard work and most often prone to ripoffs.
By planting in a forest or in someone else’s field you are not in
any danger of being caught with the plants ON YOUR PROPERTY.
Having said that the person’s property that you planted on is at risk.
Be a nice grower and do NOT plant on someone else's property. It is
not a nice thing to do and looks bad on the cannabis growing
community. Find a public area such as a forest or a hill slope. Look for
an area that is away from the public eye. Look for an area that will
receive plenty of light. There are lots of places for this sort of thing.
You have just got to spend time finding them. This is the key to
guerrilla growing. Find a good patch and you will have good bud.
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Figure 3.15 - Photograph by Mullummadman.
Your grow patch, whether on your own property or public
property, must be treated. Leaving seeds in the soil and coming back
four months later is generally not going to get you good results. Two
main things must be done to the patch to begin the grow - weeding and
digging.
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Figure 3.16 - A night shot of an outdoor grow by Slowhand.
Some guerrilla farmers keep it simple. What they do is start
their seedlings in small plastic pots indoors. When the seedlings have
developed the grower cuts the bottom of the pot away. A small piece of
cardboard is taped to the bottom of the pot. The plants, in their pots,
are then taken to the grow patch. A hole is dug in the ground and the
pot and plant is placed in the earth. The cardboard is removed and the
hole is filled in with soil. That way you have germinated your plant
and only need to worry about secondary factors such as light, security
and pests. The roots will find their way out of the bottom of the pot
and into the soil below. Don't worry about the roots not finding a way
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out of the pot. They always do, that is their job.
Figure 3.17 - Picture by Slowhand.
Most outdoor growers favor this method. A patch near a river
is ideal. Easy access to water helps if there is a short draught.
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Figure 3.18 - This is another picture of some great colas by
MullumMadman.
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GARDENING TOOLS
Here is a list of the basic items that are used to grow cannabis
plants indoors and out.
- Seeds.
- Soil.
- Propagation tray.
- Rockwool cubes.
- Pots.
- Support sticks.
- Thread.
- Watering can.
- Water spray bottle.
- Spider Mite spray.
- Other bug sprays.
- A pair of scissors.
- A sharp knife.
- Grow nutrients.
- Rooting gels.
- Growth enhancing fertilizers.
- Large pitchfork.
- Small shovel.
As we advance to the latter stages of this book we will see that
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the grower can equip himself/herself with much more items that can
help them on their quest for bigger buds!
MALE POTENCY
The male plant is not a good smoke (Figure 3.19). This
however may not always be the case. Some strains have male plants
that produce more THC than other males of a different strain.
Sometimes the male can be stronger than a female from another weak
strain. Most male plants from good genetics are stronger than the
Ruderalis female. Males can be smoked or made into hash oil. Simply
wait until the plant is flowering and then clip the top 6 to 12 inches of
the plant away and remove the leaves. Throwaway any stems and
branches. Cure these leaves and then find out for yourself if the male is
any good or not. You may be in for a surprise.
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Figure 3.19 - This is a good example of what a male plant looks like.
Instead of pistils we have small round pollen sacks. The picture is
from The Penguin.
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SCUFFING SEEDS
Most seeds that fail to start germinating do so because their
shell is too hard to break open and allow water to seep in. At the end
of your germination period you may have found that 25% or more of
your seeds have not managed to pop out. You can help these seeds to
grow by using a method known as Scuffing.
Simply get a small box, like a matchbox. Line the inside of
the box with sandpaper. Place the seeds into the box. Cover the seeds
with more sandpaper. Close the box and shake the seeds in the box for
a few minutes. Now the seeds are scuffed and their outer shell should
be easier to pop open. Plant these seeds in soil and they should be able
to germinate.
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Chapter 4
SECURITY
Before we go any further we should really address this topic
because it crops up so often. Security is always an issue whether you
are an outdoor or indoor grower. We have learned before that the best
way to secure your grow area is too prepare yourself fully for any event
that may occur in the foreseeable future.
Pre-production security arrangements are very important. A
sudden peak in your electricity bill may attract unwanted attention
from certain authorities that look for these things. This may seem odd
to you, but it does happen.
It is now common practice that most countries who still have
prohibition on cannabis plants set up special task squads to track down
growers. The most often used technique by these agencies is tracking
purchasing orders. Many agencies keep a tab on certain grow shops
and look through the items that are being sold to outside customers.
This tracking requires a special court order but the police can obtain
this with ease. If someone has been identified as buying suspicious
grow products, then the agency will also try to find out what other
things have been bought using the same credit card or another
electronic money transfer medium. Many a grower have been caught
out this way. The best way to avoid this system is to PAY CASH.
Seed-banks are also sometimes tracked by certain agencies
that watch for incoming mail with certain stamps and envelope
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headers. Sometimes it is not the agency that do the tracking but people
themselves in the post office who want to rip you off. IT DOES
HAPPEN, and quite a bit as well. To get around this most seed-banks
do not head their mail anymore. If your seed-bank does head their mail
with their company address it is best to keep away from that seed-bank
in the future.
If you have done the right thing then you should have all your
growing tools and kits bought via cash and your seeds purchased from
a good seed-bank that has good seeds and a safe secure way of sending
you their product. Many seed-banks use great stealth to get you your
seeds. It is advised that you never have seeds sent to your grow area.
INDOOR SECURITY
When growing indoors try to consider certain factors
cropping up in the near future. Like visits from repairmen or gasmen.
Some growers have a grow room which they can sweep clean in under
1 minute. This means that they have a closet near by where they can
quickly move their plants too, if any visitors do pop up.
Always keep your security closet near your grow area. It is no
good walking around your house with five or more plants in your
arms. It is a bad idea to use your toilet for the backup security area
unless you have another one that the guest can use.
Apart from this backup area the other thing you must
consider with indoor security is the smell. Now Super Skunk and
Skunk#1 are very smelly plants. When the plant is in flowering she
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begins to stink.....Hence the name ‘Skunk’. If you live in an apartment
complex then there is no way you will be able to hide the smell unless
you have some form of an EXTRACTOR FAN or an OZONE
GENERATOR (Figure 4.1).
Figure 4.1 - This is a home made Ozone Generator. Picture by
Shipperke.
In some indoor set-ups a fan can be used to extract any
unwanted smell away from the corridor outside. It can be pumped
through a window or filter to another area where the smell will not be
noticed. Not only that but plants love fresh air and wind, so the fan can
do two things at once for you. An ‘Ozone Generator’ is a device that
can be purchased from most grow shops. It helps to get rid of cannabis
odor problems.
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Apart from the smell problem the other problem you will have
is with fires. Now this is a very important thing to know about. Some
people growing indoors tend to use very shoddy lights with even
shoddier fixtures.
NEVER EVER USE ANY LIGHTING KIT AND FIXTURES
THAT ARE DAMAGED OR NOT SUITABLE FOR INDOOR
GROWING.
Many people have lost their homes because of this problem.
Taking short cuts with lighting and electricity is a big no no. I have
heard off and met many people who have come home only to find a
fire brigade outside who have just finished putting out the fire which
engulfed part of the house. The same thing happens in every case. The
grower gets closer and sees a number of police officers looking around
the room. The fire officer points to the cause of the fire - a half melted
light fixture with burnt out sockets. The officer looks around and sees
the plants all crispy and black. They both know what this is all about.
Why do they know? Because they have seen it a hundred times before.
New Marijuana growers nearly always make the mistake of
creating inferior lighting set-ups. Needless to say that this is because of
three things. (1) They don’t have the right information because of
government censorship laws. (2) They do not have the money to invest
in a proper lighting system. (3) They just want to grow their pot quick
and fast and cheaply. We will discuss proper lighting systems in
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another chapter.
OUTDOOR SECURITY
As we have said before the best way to secure your outdoor
garden plants is via a shelter. One must also remember that some
outdoor plants do smell and this can carry over a short distance given
the right wind and the right climate. Most people would not know
what the smell is but some DO! Many growers get around this problem
by growing cannabis plants that have very little smell during
flowering. These types of strains are listed by most seed-banks. Again
you should ask about strains that have low smell levels. All Cannabis
plants smell to some degree during flowering.
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Figure 4.2 - Nice Bud picture from RealHigh.
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Figure 4.3 - An outdoor Haze plant by Slowhand.
The other thing to do is to make sure that during harvest time
you have harvested as quickly and as privately as possible. Standing
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over a small shelter putting cuttings of cannabis into a big black bag is
not exactly the most secure way to go about this. Some people go out to
their garden with black plastic bags and drop the bag over the plant
before pulling it up. This way you will not expose your crop to anyone.
Some people do their harvesting at night. This is not recommended
though as it can draw unwanted attention to you.
If you are growing your plant outdoors in the open without a
shelter and away from the general public then you may want to create
a pen for your plants. A pen made from chicken wire will prevent any
unwanted predators such as deer or rodents from eating your plants.
Predators are a big problem with outdoor growing. We will talk about
pests later.
GUERRILLA GROWING SECURITY
Tracks left behind from your ventures too and from your grow
area are the worst give-away for any guerrilla farmer. People just love
to walk through the woods and say "oh look a nice track, I wonder
what is down there?". Try not to create a track when you go to your
grow area. Even by visiting the same spot once every two weeks you
will leave a trail that some hikers might see and use. Try to access
your grow through several different routes if you can.
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Figure 4.4 - This is a picture of a guerrilla grow deep in the woods.
The cannabis is hidden low down in the foreground of this picture by
Mullummadman.
As a guerrilla grower you should try to keep away from
hacking through 100 feet of brambles to get to your grow site. When
choosing a spot find an area that is not too dense but not too sparse
either. Some Guerrilla growers have even created small grow baskets
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that they hang from trees away from the public eye. If the baskets are
well camouflaged then you can get away with loads!
As a guerrilla grower you should always wear gloves when
handling your work. If you have buckets near by do not leave
fingerprints on any of these. Also you will want to consider having a
good reason for being in your grow area. Imagine that you are walking
back from your path, with no crop on you, and someone jumps out of
the bush. He says - “What are you doing here?”. Of course you know
that there is a river near by so you show him your fishing rod or your
binoculars and bird spotting book. There are many things you can take
with you on your trip to make you look more like somebody else other
than a cannabis grower. Many grow sites have been staked-out by
people you would not like to meet. Always check the area around your
grow site for any people who may look suspicious.
The worst security time for any guerrilla grower is during
harvest time. This is when you must go from your grow area to your
home with your growing rewards. Always do this as early as possible
in the morning just as the sun rises. Always double-check the area for
any suspicious looking people. Pack your buds and plants into black
plastic bags (brown paper bags are better) and then put these into a
backpack. Walk towards the edge of the forest /woods/clearing and
quickly drop your bag down against a bush and cover it up. Walk
towards your car and look around again. Drive your car for about five
minutes and look around to see if you can see anything. If you see
anything suspicious, or anything following you leave the bag and go to
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town (not home - leave that until the situation is under control again).
If things look okay, drive back to where you left your bag. Pick up your
bag and put it in the boot or trunk of the car. Drive home carefully.
Some people can get away with guerrilla farming lots of pot.
This is commercial growing on a risky scale but can still be found in
various parts of the world where cannabis is still banned. The growers
usually live deep in the forest miles away from the nearest town. They
may spend up to 7 months out there on their own, cultivating the crop.
Recent grow busts by the police have identified some several tons of
bud being grown by as little as 3 people living squat in some unknown
region of British Colombia.
There is not much more to outdoor growing than this. Most of
the elements that you need to complete your outdoor grow are in the
indoor growing chapter of this book. Read through this and it should
give you ideas about how to treat your outdoor grow patch.
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Chapter 5
THE INDOOR GROWING OF CANNABIS
There are many ways to grow your cannabis plant indoors.
The two core methods of indoor growing are soil growing and
hydroponics. There is a separate chapter for hydroponics, and so this
chapter will deal with soil growing.
Figure 5.1 - Indoor Grow room. Picture by RealHigh.
There are many ways to grow an indoor soil garden. The most
common indoor set-ups are:
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1. Bench growing,
2. SOG growing,
3. ScrOG growing
4. Cabinet growing.
We will discuss these methods in a moment but let us first see what
they all have in common.
LIGHTS
Lights come in all shapes, sizes, wattage and type. A full
indoor grow lighting kit should contain the following items. Bulb,
reflector, ballast, timer and electrical inputs/outputs.
Figure 5.2 - Regular HID Bulbs.
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Figure 5.3 - A reflector with bulb and ballast.
Figure 5.4 - This is a picture of a timer.
Most lighting kits are open, meaning that no hood or glass
will cover the bulb. It hangs directly under the reflector. The bulb is
fixed into a socket that is attached to the inside of the reflector. That
socket is connected to the ballast. The ballast can be internal or
external. If external there will be a cord leading to the ballast from the
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bulb's socket. The ballast plugs into a domestic light socket like the
one you have in your home. Some ballast types even have a built-in
timer.
When buying a lighting system it is recommend that you buy
a complete system and an extra bulb. Check to make sure that the
lighting system meets safety regulations and has some sort of
guarantee with it.
Figure 5.5 - This is an example of what an external ballast looks like.
You might be able to see the timer on top of it.
LIGHT BANDS
Light can be separated into a spectrum, which form the colors
of the rainbow. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.
Each of these lights mix down to give white light. Artificial lights,
because of their nature, tend to lean towards a tint of one of these
colors when they mix down to form white light.
The electro-magnetic spectrum is a term used in lighting to
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describe the distribution of electro-magnetic radiation by reference to
energy. This table roughly gives wavelengths, frequencies and energies
for parts of the spectrum. There is also the color part of the spectrum
that is very important for plants.
Plants are green, which means that Plants absorb light at the
middle of the spectrum (Orange to Indigo). Cannabis plants need this
part of the light spectrum to reach full growing potential. The intensity
of the light is also important. A light that feeds the full bandwidth with
all light spectrums will work very well - like sunlight. When dealing
with artificial lights it is better to choose a light that concentrates its
intensity on the top part of the spectrum. The most common indoor
light systems are called HID lights. We will discuss the full range of
lights that you may come across in some grow rooms.
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POOR LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Domestic Lights:
Figure 5.6 - A domestic bulb. Also called
an incandescent light source.
These are the lights you find in use around your house. These
lights come in all sizes and wattage - 15 watts to 150 watt. These
lights are not suitable for growing because of their low light intensity
and bad color spectrum.
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AVERAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Fluorescent Tube Lights:
Figure 5.7 and 5.8 - These are examples of some fluro fixtures and
bulbs that can be bought in most hardware stores.
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These lights are the long industrial lights that are found in
many a school and work place. These lights come in nearly all lengths
and sizes. 2 to 10 feet are the main sizes that are out there. They also
run between 10 watts and 300 watts. These lights are okay for growing
but they provide little light and are hard to set up properly. They also
are not in best light spectrum for Cannabis plants to grow in.
Halogen Lights:
Figure 5.9 - A Halogen light.
Halogen lights are the small lights that can be seen on the
outside of factories for flood lighting the grounds during the night.
They are usually small and black. These lights can range anywhere
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between 75watts and 4000watts.
Halogens get extremely hot and can provide an unsuitable
condition for growing Cannabis under. They are not recommended
because they are dangerous to use indoors for growing. They are also
not in the best light spectrum for growing Cannabis.
Fluorescent White Tube Lights:
These are not in use much and are very similar to the
Fluorescent lights except they are in the correct growing spectrum.
These lights are not very strong and do not range much above
100watts. They are only recommend for growers who do not want to
grow full flowering cannabis plants.
Figure 5.10 - White Tube Light.
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BEST LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Horticultural Lights:
These lights are professional horticultural lights. They are
developed by horticultural lighting companies and are tested to suit
growing plants indoors. These lights are commonly called HID (High
Intensity Discharge). Like the former lights these also come in kits
with bulb, reflector, ballast and timer. They also come in different
wattage and different shapes and sizes. If you want to grow good bud
then you need a HID. A HID is the second most important purchase
you will make next to choosing your strain.
Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury Vapor (MV):
The lights are HID lights and are used for the seedling and
vegetative growth stages of your plant. They can also be used for
flowering and are quite good too. They come in all shapes and sizes
and range from 75W - 4000watts. These lights are very common and
are a good kit for the indoor Cannabis grower.
Mercury Vapor is not as common as it used to be. It has
almost been replaced byMetal Halide now. If you have a choice
between the two it is best to stay with the new MH kits. MV also has a
tendency to be slightly out of the optimal spectrum range.
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High Pressure Sodium (HPS):
This is the lighting choice of many a Cannabis Cultivator.
These lights come in all shapes and sizes and have a range of 75watts -
4000watts. These lights are in the perfect spectrum for growing
cannabis and come highly recommended.
Figure 5.11 - This is an example of a HPS and also a MH Light
system. There is nothing at face value to Indicate that the light is a
HPS or a MH. To check this out we need to look at the ballast and the
bulb and read what is says about the type of light system that it is. MH
lights tend to give off a blue tone, while HPS tend to give off an
orange tone.
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WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A LIGHT
The first thing to say is that some growers have a MH set-up
for seedlings and vegetative growth and a HPS for flowering. The HPS
is a better flowering lamp, while the MH is a better veg lamp. If we
can only afford one we should get a HPS. Both MH and HPS can be
used for vegetative growth and flowering. However since we are
growing for bud, we should try to get the best HPS we can.
The next thing they look for is the light kit itself. Check to see
that the light is certified and is in good shape. Then check to see if the
light is air-cooled. Some of these lights have a fan built in which keeps
the light cool. If you see this then you know that you are going to need
somewhere to vent your air. This may mean that you need to adjust a
wall in your grow area so that the air is extracted from the light.
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Figure 5.12 - This picture shows two air-cooled hoods attached to
their respective air ducts. This photograph is by Chimera.
Lights that are air-cooled (Figure 5.12) tend to last longer and
do not heat up your grow area that much. Most expert growers like to
keep a room at a stable controllable temperature and use these aircooled
lights to achieve that. If your light is not air-cooled then you
will have to build an air vent and fan in your grow room wall to keep
the temperatures under control. Cannabis leaves will burn if placed too
close to a HID light.
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Figure 5.13 - This is a water-cooled light system. These inventions
have been around for awhile but have not caught on that much
because they require a good bit of work. A constant pump of cool
water must be circulated into and out of the light system.
The next thing to check is how the light is supported. Does it
require a light stand or does it require to be hung from the ceiling. In
most cases you will be able to make your own stand if you feel that you
are not willing to fasten a few hooks and chains to your ceiling. Also
check to see if the electrical fittings suit your needs. Will they plug
straight into your system at home or do you need an adapter? Maybe
you might require an extension cord with your purchase. Most HID
kits can only take a specific wattage of bulb and a certain type of bulb.
If you have a 600W HPS system, then you should only use 600W HPS
bulbs. Some lighting kits have something called a 'switchable ballast'
(Figure 5.14). This means that you use both MH and HPS lights with
the system. Check your kit for further details.
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Figure 5.14 - This is a picture of what the switch looks like on a
ballast that can take 2 HID types.
The next thing to look for is the guarantee. Check to see what
the manufacturer has said about this light and how long the guarantee
is for. Last but not least is the most important part of your light. The
wattage and lumens.
WATTAGE AND LUMENS
HID Lights can range anywhere between 75W and 4000W. In
general the stronger the wattage the more light that bulb will produce.
However we must also consider another factor and that factor is called
Lumens. Lumens are the correct way of measuring how much light per
square foot a bulb emits. Lumens and wattage do go hand in hand but
can vary a large amount between systems. The better the lighting kit,
the better the lumens it will cast. Lumens have more to do with the
design of the light than the wattage of the light itself. Some 600W
lights may give the same lumens as a 400W light. Have a look at this
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chart:
This is interesting because we have two types of HPS lights
using the same bulb wattage and one of the types is casting more
Lumens than the other. The reason for this is that the higher lumens
kit is better quality than the other. So we now know that some lighting
kits produce better Lumens than others. Check through HID lighting
kits and look at how many lumens they cast. This is a good Indicator
of how professional that light is. Also a 4000W HID is too much for
any grow room. A 1K (1000W) bulb is the maximum light wattage you
should purchase. Use several 1K bulbs if you need more light. A 4K
bulb will bleach Cannabis and is very hot.
LUMENS AND MARIJUANA GROWING
Now for the big question. How many Lumens do I need? Well
this depends on three things. (1) How much do you want to spend? (2)
How many plants do you have? (3) How big is your grow area?
LAMP TYPE WATTS LUMENS
M.V 175 8000
M.H 400 36000
H.P.S 600 45000
H.P.S 600 36000
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You do not want to go less than 2500 Lumens, even for one
plant. You want to get the best so you need to hit the 45000 mark or
more. In general one light that casts 45000 lumens is enough to cover
a workspace of about 3 feet by 3 feet. This is quite an average space
and you will probably get anything between 6 - 9 plants in that area.
Again we must keep in mind the strain that we are growing. One large
Sativa plant can cover a 9 square foot grow area in no time. Short
Indica plants are different. You can get maybe 12 plants into a 9
square foot grow area. If you really want to pump up your plants then
you may consider a lamp that casts 100,000 Lumens or more. If you
want a bigger grow area then you may consider 2 lamps that cast
100,000 Lumens each. All is relative to how much you want to grow
and the size of your grow room.
Let’s say for the record that we would like to grow 4 plants.
Then what we should aim for is a light that casts 45000 Lumens. This
means we should buy a 600-Watt HID system. Let’s say we want to
pump up our available light to around 60,000 Lumens. This means we
should buy a 1000-Watt HID system. If our area is bigger we might
need 2 or more 1000-watt HID lights to achieve this. It is all very
respective to the 3 elements we mentioned above.
There is nothing wrong if you want to use a 1000-watt HID
light on 2 plants. They will grow bigger and better. The only thing is,
do we really want to spend all that money on the light and the
electricity bill? HID lights range anywhere between $220/£200 and
$700/£670 for a full kit. You may be able to buy the parts and build
your own, but this is only recommended if you have some experience
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with lights first. A 600W HPS kit should cost about $250/£230. This is
money well spent if you want great plants with big buds.
Over time you will understand more about grow rooms and
how to light them properly. With experience you should be able to tell
what light suits your needs. As a general rule, when in doubt buy a
400W HPS or better. Even a 250W HPS can get you good-sized buds
but go below that mark and you will only end up with less than
average results.
LIGHTING FACTORS AND HOWTO GET THE MOST
FROM YOUR LIGHT
The reflector part of the lighting kit can also cause a
difference in lumens cast between two different systems using the same
bulb. The reflector does it exactly what is says. It reflects light. The
other thing to consider is that when the light bounces off the reflector
it is going to fall down on your plant. When it does your plants will
absorb this light. Not all of the available light is picked up by the plant
and some of the light will escape and reflect off your workbench. Your
bench may even absorb some of the light. This is your light that you
are spending money on so why not try and do something about saving
this escaping light. Some reflectors are very good and some are very
poor. Reflectors should not be any color other than white or polished
metal. Some reflectors may have a small green film of plastic covering
their insides. Remove this if you can. It should just pull off like a piece
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of tape.
Many people get mirrors or tin foil and line their grow area
with it. This is NOT good. MIRRORS ABSORB LIGHT. This
means that only a small amount of your light is reflected back towards
your plant. What you need is something white. White is the best color
for reflecting light, period. Not shiny glossy white, just plain ‘flat’
white. A white wall will reflect more light than a mirror will. Many
growers like to paint the walls of their grow ‘flat’ white. This helps a
lot. Other people like to line their grow area with the back end of tin
foil wrapping (the white side). This is okay, but make sure that you use
the white side and not the shiny side.
A substance which looks like a tin foil sheet, called Mylar
(Fig. 5.15), is very popular in cannabis grow rooms. Instead of using
white walls you can use this reflective alternative. Most DIY and
hardware stores will sell it in roles.
Figure 5.15 - Mylar comes in roles like this.
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Figure 5.16 - Mylar in the grow room by Shipperke
It is also recommend that you keep a spare bulb at all times in
case your other bulb dies. It is no good going down to the local
hardware store only to find that they are out of the bulb type that you
need. This could leave your plants without light for along time.
It is also wise to remember that plants need
water and lights use electricity. Both these factors when
mixed are extremely dangerous. Be safe and wise and
keep all electrical outlets away from your plants and any
liquids that you use.
Okay so you have your grow area set-up with all your security
arrangements met. You have your lights set up and hanging down over
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your grow area. You also have some form of light reflection around
your plants to help conserve your light. Your seed-bank has sent you
your seeds and you have germinated them. They are on a tray next to
you and you are preparing to transplant them into larger pots. The
larger pot will stay with the plant throughout its life cycle and you
need to provide the best medium possible in which your plant will
grow.
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Figure 5.17 - Nice Indica/Sativa plant from BushyOlderGrower.
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SOIL
Soil comes in many types and varieties. What you will find as
you go along is that you will add various ingredients to your soil to
improve plant growth.
The Cannabis plant will grow long and winding roots into the
soil. These roots absorb water and other minerals from the soil to help
it grow. The soil also goes through dry periods when you do not water
your plant or when the plant has absorbed most of the water. During
these dry periods air is allowed to creep in between the soil particles,
allowing the roots to breathe.
There are 3 main factors to look at when buying soil. (1) pH,
(2) Nutrients and (3) Structure.
pH
pH is a way of measuring how much acid and alkaline is in
the soil. The pH scale runs from 1 - 14. 7 is neutral, 0 is very acidic
and 14 is very alkaline. Cannabis plants in soil like a pH of 7. When
choosing your soil you should be looking for a pH of 7. It should tell
you this on the bag. Going above or below this mark can cause your
plant problems during growth. Small pH meters (Figure 5.18) can be
bought in most gardening shops and can be used to measure the
overall pH of your soil.
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Figure 5.18 - This is a picture of two cheap pH meters that can be
purchased from most grow shops.
NUTRIENTS
The three major nutrients that are found in soil are Nitrogen,
Phosphorous and Potassium or NPK for short. NPK can come in two
forms - with the soil or as a stand-alone fertilizer (usually in a bottle).
When you look at the bag you will see that the % of each part is stated.
Such as 20:20:20. This means 20% N, 20% P, 20% K. The remaining
40% is just other elements that make-up the soil. In liquid it would
usually be water. This ratio can change between different types of
nutrient and soil brands so we need to understand what Cannabis likes.
Cannabis plants like good levels of N and a normal level of P
and K during vegetative growth. You need to pick a bag that has all
three, not just 10:20:0. When looking at chemical fertilizers you need
a mixture that has the first number higher or equal to the rest. 12-12-
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12 is fine, 20-20-20 is fine, 12-6-6 is fine and 18-4-5 is fine. The 12-
12-12 and 20-20-20 are the best ones to find. Something like 8-20-20
is not suitable for vegetative growth. Bags with higher P are for
flowering plants. As a grower we do not transplant to new soil for
flowering. We simply use plant feeds to bring up the P levels during
flowering.
STRUCTURE
Try to find a soil that is not too moist. In other words try to
find a soil that dries out well and does not hold water like mud. It
should say on the packet whether the soil is a wet or dry one. Try to
find a balance between the two. Wet soil will sometimes cause plant
damage because your roots need air to breathe. Dry soil may also dry
out too quickly and needs to be watered more often. Try to find a soil
that is loose and feels fine but slightly heavy in your hands.
Basically the soil structure is up to you. Do not buy anything
that is hard and bulky or too soft and weightless. Medium Soft and
heavy is what you want.
SOME COMMON SOIL TYPES
There are many more types of soil mediums out there and
here we will briefly go through a few. Marijuana can be grown in most
of these soil types but you will see that there may be some problems
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with a few of them.
(Also there is a type of artificial medium on the market called
Perlite. It is a good medium but does not come with any nutrients and
generally needs to be mixed with another soil type. Vermiculite is
another product like Perlite which should be treated the same way.
Mix them well with soil if it is your first time using them. With a bit of
experience you should be able to control the mixture ratios better.)
Sand and Silts:
Figure 5.19 - Sand.
Sand soils can be pure sand or a mixture of sand and soil. The
problem with sandy soil is that it drains water and minerals out too
quickly. This means that it is a very dry soil and not suitable for our
needs. These soils can waste our time and money.
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Silt soils are nearly the same as sand soil except they are more
clay-like and of a darker color. Silts hold nutrients well but do not hold
water very well. Like sands they are prone to quick drainage. Sands
and Silts are rarely used on their own to grow cannabis. Mostly it is
mixed with other soil types.
Clay:
Figure 5.20 - Clay
Is a stiff tenacious fine-grained earth consisting of hydrated
aluminosilicates that become flexible when water is added. Marijuana
roots do not really like clay. Clay can rarely be used on its own to grow
Cannabis. Mostly it is mixed with other soil types.
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Loam:
Figure 5.21 - Loam
Loams tend to be a mix of all of the above. The combination
of the mix is always stated on the bag. In fact, in most cases normal
soil that you buy in the shops has sand, silt and clay mixed in with it.
When you encounter a bag of soil it is nearly always going to be a
Loam. Loams are very fertile soil composed chiefly of clay, sand, and
humus. They are highly recommended. It must be noted at this point
that you do not want to bring natural outdoor soil in. This is because
the soil may not be sterile and it may contain bugs and pests. Always
buy soil from a gardening shop. Soil is the cheapest part of your grow.
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Humus:
Figure 5.21 - Humus
Is the organic constituent of soil, formed by the
decomposition of plant materials and can be bought in bags at the local
gardening shop. Most of these products try to eliminate bugs and other
living matter from the soil but sometimes this is not 100% successful.
Don’t be too surprised if you find a worm or green fly in the package.
Humus is also sometimes known as compost, but compost is the final
mixture of manure (which is of organic origin), loam soil and some
other mediums with added organic matter. Humus is that added
organic matter stuff.
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POTS
Figure 5.22 - Plant in three gallon pots by BushyOlderGrower
Basically pots come in all shapes and sizes. Marijuana plants
are best kept in pots that are somewhat large (1.5 - 3 gallon pots)
because cannabis does grow long roots.
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Also you are better off buying a pot that has some form of
perforations (holes) at the bottom. The perforated pot sits on a small
dish (you should be able to buy these at the same time you buy your
pots). When you water your plant some of the water may drain down
through the soil and come out through the perforations and into the
dish. The dish should be emptied if this happens to avoid water spills.
More advanced growers use pots that do not contain
perforations at the bottom. This is because advanced growers never
water or feed their plants too much. If you over-water your plant, these
perforated pots will drain some of the water through to the dish. What
happens is that the water may also leech down some of the nutrients
that you have added to your soil. Over-watering can cost you time,
wasted nutrients and even kill your plant.
Before you use a pot make sure that you clean it thoroughly
before use to get rid of any unwanted chemicals or dust that may have
gathered in the shop or factory.
Pots are very cheap to buy. It is always best that you only use
one pot per plant. If there is a problem with the soil, watering or
nutrients then only one plant will feel the effects.
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Figure 5.23 - Picture by Chrisesq.
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Figure 5.24 - This is a great picture of a method known as doublepotting
which helps create a thicker stem. During vegetative growth
the bottom of the top pot is cut away and is placed on top of a new pot
with fresh soil. The roots grow down into the next pot. Look at the size
of the cola in this picture by GIYO.
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CONTINUING YOUR INDOOR SOIL GROWING
So at this stage you now have the best soil that you can get
your hands on. You take the seedling and make the transplant. You fill
in the empty areas of the new pot with more soil. You pat down the top
of soil lightly and you apply the stake if needed to support your plant.
You also add a small amount of water to your pot and you place the
pot on the bench under the light. You will leave the light on 24 hours a
day and watch as your plant grows over the weeks from its seedling
cycle to its vegetative state.
Figure 5.25 - A Picture of seedlings finishing their seedling stage and
going into vegetative growth. By Vic High.
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Figure 5.26 - Top shot of an Indica plant in veg by Ralpheme.
INDOOR VEGETATIVE GROWTH
During your plants vegetative cycle it will begin to grow
quickly and produce more leaves and new branches. The stem will also
grow thicker. This is when your plant begins to look like a marijuana
plant.
WATERING
Water your plant ever second or third day or better still when
they dry out. Never let the soil dry out completely for long periods of
time. The following method works best with good size pots.
Day A - watering, Day B - let dry, Day C - let dry, Day D - check soil
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and water if needed.
This really does depend on the size of your pots though. If you
pick up your pot when it is dry and pick up the same pot when it is has
been watered, you can tell the difference in weight. This is a good way
to judge if your pots need water or not.
It is easy to see signs of over-watering. Watch your plants
after you have watered them for the next 2 - 3 days. Do the fan leaves
point outwards to receive more light? Or do they wilt downwards and
look like claws. If they wilt then you may be under-watering or overwatering.
Check the soil. Is it dry? If it is then add more water. If it’s
wet, then leave the soil dry out for more time until your leaves pick up
again. You will eventually understand more about your plants needs as
it grows along. What you need to do is form a pattern or relationship
with your plants watering needs.
Over-watering does kill plants if the watering continues. If
this happens let it dry out and hope for the best. Use a fan near the
surface of the soil if you can. You may find that you need to water
everyday because your light may be discharging a lot of heat and your
soil might be a quick draining type.
Your plant needs all the light it can get in vegetative growth.
Leave your light on 24 hours a day and enjoy watching your plant as it
grows.
ADJUSTING YOUR LIGHTS
If you have a good stand or light support you will be able to
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lower or heighten your light. This is great because the closer your light
is to the plant the more light it will receive. However make sure it is
not too close or it will burn your leaves. If you can keep your hand at a
certain area under the light and not feel discomfort then your plants
should do okay too. If you feel discomfort, so will your plants. Use
common sense and adjust your lights accordingly.
Some Cannabis plants can grow as fast as an inch a day! So
you need to watch out that your plant does not push up against the
lig