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This is a classic post, but a word of warning; cloning from plants in flower is not wise.
Firstly, it's a lot easier to clone from a plant in it's veg phase; after all, putting on green is what it's doing, and that's what you want your clones to do. They will take off a lot quicker, and be healthier (especially if you do it in the correct phase of the moon - worth a Google).
And secondly, I often read suggestions that cloning from a plant that has begun its flowering program can cause mutations in the DNA, which would weaken your stock over time, lowering potency, and introducing undesirable characteristics. It makes sense; it's a whole new program when the light changes, and the plants energy is being directed into a vastly different set of goals, i.e. dank budz.
So basically, you take your clones while a plant is still in veg, before going under 12/12 lighting. Generally, it's best to keep a separate mother plant, anyway, and just grab as many clones as you need for your next ScroG.
There seems to be a flaw in the ScroG system, as I see it, in that you need to spend veg time under the screen, but I didn't. I'm hoping to keep a steady perpetual harvest with mother/daughter chamber + ScroG, using LST to pre-train the plants for the screen (I LST'ed three of my six, as an experiment), which they will fill during the first few weeks (aka. "the stretch"). I've just started this Perpetual-ScroG system, so if it doesn't work out like that, I'll post here again! But after only a week of stetching in soil, it's looking pretty good!
Something else that isn't mentioned is that it's good to bowl (curve into a bowl shape) the chicken wire (or whatever you are using) to match the curvature of the light intensity. If you don't, the buds on the outside won't get as much light as the buds in the middle. A light meter* would be a useful tool in determining just how "bowed" your light pattern is, depending on your reflector.
Happy ScroGin'
-mu
* or a camera with a light meter in it; point the camera at the palm of your hand in the test point - closing the aperture (higher number, like f32) as much as possible, if you can do that with your camera.
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